tsweers89 Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Why wasn't this nut welded when it was put together at the very minimum? Knowing that these are known issues its something that shouldnt of happened in the first place. Also many many people go with the vac motorport oil pump upgrade which includes a hardend oil pump shaft. I don;'t know about the one you posted but that is an option as well. But do as you please. Also some of the older m50's have chain tensioners on the oil pump chain. Yours does not. Again some opt and add a Euro oil pump chain guide/tensioner or a s54 chain tensioner for the oil pump. Not 100% needed but something id consider if you are reving it high often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Why wasn't this nut welded when it was put together at the very minimum? Knowing that these are known issues its something that shouldnt of happened in the first place. Also many many people go with the vac motorport oil pump upgrade which includes a hardend oil pump shaft. I don;'t know about the one you posted but that is an option as well. But do as you please. Also some of the older m50's have chain tensioners on the oil pump chain. Yours does not. Again some opt and add a Euro oil pump chain guide/tensioner or a s54 chain tensioner for the oil pump. Not 100% needed but something id consider if you are reving it high often.This, yours was safety wired? I welded mine when I built my m50, it has survived 45k of bouncing off of the rev limiter. I am NA though, but that wouldn't really affect the oil pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Why wasn't this nut welded when it was put together at the very minimum? Knowing that these are known issues its something that shouldnt of happened in the first place. Also many many people go with the vac motorport oil pump upgrade which includes a hardend oil pump shaft. I don;'t know about the one you posted but that is an option as well. But do as you please. Also some of the older m50's have chain tensioners on the oil pump chain. Yours does not. Again some opt and add a Euro oil pump chain guide/tensioner or a s54 chain tensioner for the oil pump. Not 100% needed but something id consider if you are reving it high often.This, yours was safety wired?I welded mine when I built my m50, it has survived 45k of bouncing off of the rev limiter. I am NA though, but that wouldn't really affect the oil pump.It was not welded or safety wired. I didn't know about this and that is why I brought it to a shop... There was a lock washer installed but I don't think that was in the Bentley manual. I'm going to do some more research to see if I can get the GSR pump to work with my current pump otherwise I will try to retrofit a m54 or m52 5 bolt pump in there. (I think this is right). If I need to weld a shorter pickup on one so be it.I am worried about breaking the shaft aswell as the nut coming loose. This motor revs so fast!Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 This might be in my future. http://store.vacmotorsports.com/harmonic-damper-bmw-m50-m52-m54--s50-us-s52-us-p756.aspx# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 I mentioned the safety wire because the nut looks like a drilled one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 There should be no lock washer between the nut and the gear, and your pump nut has most certainly been drilled. Did you build this part of the engine or did the shop? Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkoepp Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 I mentioned the safety wire because the nut looks like a drilled one.The base of the thread looks knurled too. That lock washer looks out of place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Bassboy3313 and mkoepp 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsweers89 Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 This might be in my future. http://store.vacmotorsports.com/harmonic-damper-bmw-m50-m52-m54--s50-us-s52-us-p756.aspx# Not something really needed with your set up but again once you are ready let me know. As usual I get these cheaper then VAC (aka vac overcharges on a lot of things) DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 WAY TOO SOON!!!! hahaSent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 There should be no lock washer between the nut and the gear, and your pump nut has most certainly been drilled. Did you build this part of the engine or did the shop?Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2I didn't build it and the shop "doesn't recall" what they did with the nut.Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Something is out of place with how that was done. Breaking shafts is no good no matter how you slice it! Pun intended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Some more carnage pics. The hole on the nut doesn't go all the way through.Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 I am no expert, but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque. My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off. DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsbimmer1 Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 I am no expert, but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque. My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off. Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night? no, but im sure my bed is just as uncomfortable. Rowleym and patsbimmer1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 No dice on the GSR pump.I think I will get a replacement for the pump I already have and weld that nut.With the savings I will more than likely get the harmonic dampener to try to calm down that engine and prevent anything else from rattling/snapping loose.Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsbimmer1 Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 If you ain't breakin' parts, you ain't makin' nuff powa! DrLeadFoot and Rowleym 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 If you ain't mixin' gas, you ain't hauling ass. . . . . You should see my weed whacker whack weeds. B C and patsbimmer1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 #6 bottom rod bearing. Looks good to me!Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Talk about a bearing relief hawhawhawhaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Talk about a bearing relief hawhawhawhawGonna get 100% confirmation from my machinist right now.Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 http://www.achillesmotorsports.com/Achilles-Motorsports-Upgraded-Oil-Pump-New-BMW-M-p/11-am-uopn.htm I just ordered this along with their oil pan baffle. I also bought a new Jesus bolt and washer to go with it. While I was turning over the motor to pull the #6 rod bearing I noticed the bolt loosening while the crank was staying in the same place. I'm glad I found this before it broke again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 I'm also going to check all of my rod bearings for wear. Boris with the 8 second independent rear suspension e30 talked me into it. He said the ARP bolts need to be torqued to 43ft/lbs with the ARP torque lube. That's better than doing the 25ft/lbs then turned an additional 55 degrees that K1 told me to do.Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 I have mine torqued up around 70 ft-lb per VAC Motorsports' instructions. They appear to be for both 12v and 24v engines. I can scan them if you would like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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