Bassboy3313

Nice! I was actually looking at that one too, lol. Great buy!!

It is hit or miss to be honest. It will definitely need to be re-prepped and painted at some point. Kinda testing it this summer to see how well it handles the rock chips and such, then will see what it needs over winter.

Tried my hand at making a splitter and side skirt extensions. First made some cardboard templates that I fitted to the car and spare front bumper. Once I had it where I thought looked good, I went to a local sign shop in New Berlin and had them cut me some rough sized aluminum composite. Also know as poly-metal. It's two very thin sheets of aluminum with composite plastic sandwich led between them. Super lightweight yet strong and sturdy. I traced out the templates and cut the pieces out of the poly-metal with an oscillating tool. I used the stock mounting screw locations to also secure the splitter pieces which worked out well. Sanded them down and gave em a coat of semi gloss black paint and done. Paint isn't perfect as the coating on the poly-metal was still uneven even after sanding. Good part is I can always unbolt it, sand again and repaint down the road. I think it turned out nice. The subtle look goes well with the car I think. On to the next project, whatever that may be.

Awesome! I'm in the process of making an enclosure from ikea lack tables for my maker select V2. I need to be able to print with ABS and ASA pronto! Lol. Can I ask where you got your plexiglass from?

Looking great! Sort of off topic, but what enclosure do you have for your 3d printer?

Most likely, yes. It did have collectors plates as well.

Ended up finding a guy to 3d print my design in black ABS and just got them back. My 3d printer doesn't have an enclosure which is necessary for ABS due to warping if cooled too rapidly without one. Bought the o-rings from mcbastard and off I went. I think it turned out pretty awesome. The angle of the last pic was off since I was on a step stool with car on the lift, lol. But it's centered over the strut and hole is big enough to fit your hand in and adjust comfortably. The cap snaps in snug and pry's off with a small amount of force, which is perfect. I'm happy with it.

Saw a red Z3M Coupe headed west on Greenfield turning south on Calhoun at 6:45am this morning

Updates?

I've been working on a side project for the Coupe. Knowing that you have to remove the entire interior to access the top rear strut mounts, wasn't ideal for coilovers and dampening adjustments. Took a chance to design some 3d printed access caps that can be installed in the carpet humps that cover the strut tops. Will allow dampening adjustments for coilovers or regular access to the strut tops for replacements or repairs without the need to remove the interior. First go around was a little ambitious with a threaded cap into a flange set that sandwiches the carpet for mounting. Got the opinion of a true mechanical engineer (aka Brian) who gave me the idea of making it a press fit with oring instead of threads. Made designing and printing easier. Also added a slot on the side for a flat head screwdriver to pry cap off when removing. Seems to work pretty well. Next up is test fitting to the carpet and if all is good, getting these printed in ABS for longevity and heat resistance.

Started on some brittle plastic repair since any screw you remove from these cars seems to disintegrate the plastic. Glovebox mounting points were some of those. Used some metal brackets to cut up and epoxy on. Was skeptical at first and went a little heavy on the epoxy, but it actually turned out great. Super strong too. Call me impressed. Also started repairing the new door panels I picked up. The mounts tend to tear away from the press board material that the panels are made out of. So I got some epoxy, 3d printed some new ABS mounts and secured them back on. Just gotta do the same with the one map pocket that got detached and I can move onto customizing the door panel inserts to walnut brown for my interior color scheme.

Got the center console in and everything hooked up. What a huge pain in the ass that was! Hooking things up with little to no space to put hand behind was super frustrating. Hopefully everything works as it should or it's gonna stay that way for awhile, lol.

Went to wire up the center gauges and install center console, but ran into a whoops moment. While testing the interior dash lights, I bumped a couple terminals with my small pick tool and shorted it out. Dash lights immediately turned off and wouldn't work again. Checked the fuses, radio fuse was blown. Good, easy fix. Nope wasn't the issue although probably part of it. Did some googling and came up with the rheostat inside the headlight switch that dims the dash lights easily fry apparently. One fix is jumpering some pins in the headlight switch to bypass the rheostat. Tried that and I was able to turn the entire car on by pulling the headlight knob out. Ummm, no thanks! Reversed that. Another fix is completely disassembling the headlight switch to solder the broken area and everything should work as normal. Let's give it a try! Disassembled the switch Found the spot on the rheostat that fried. Hard to see but it's the very first coil of the spring behind the silver tab. Soldering this small is nearly impossible for my giant solder gun, so big blob it is. I tested the continuity between the end of the tab and the other end of the coil spring wire. Looks good to me. Threw it back together and into the car. All works as it should! Sorry no pics of that yet. Glad I was able to save some cash as every part of this car seems to be priced like gold. We shall see how long it lasts now.

Dash and cluster back in.

Thanks guys! I am happy with how it's turning out for sure.