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*awaits M5 build updates*

Replaced the passenger side door pull - it was all nasty like most of them are and left sticky black stuff on your hand when you pulled it. Not ideal. I bought the Amazon special version, as much as I want the OEM look I couldn’t bring myself to spend $100ish on a new door pull that’d break down in the exact same way in a few years. The black plastic definitely looks cheaper on the outer cover, so maybe I’ll get an OEM replacement for that, but the inner feels fine and it all mounted solidly. This version uses screws instead of the heat-staked originals.

You will have to leave it to him @ADDvanced to share the info. I think its cooler than the Bavaria IMO.

Yeah, the swap seems very painless. Even the electronics are plug-n-play which is crazy. Just trying to do my due diligence on the porsche maintenance and audi maintenance to make sure both are as good as new...or improved! I'll get there. No rush, have another car I have to get on the road first....per the wife, and she's the boss so...

Jag!?! So cool.

The only input I can provide is that I have driven both platforms, but not combined. LOL From what the internet says it seems like a pretty straightforward swap. GL!

I know he got a windshield and some other parts, but I think he's been distracted with his jaguar recently.

Weird topic, especially for a BMW board, but you all are local, and automotively savvy. Picked up a 2002 911 narrow body (kind of by accident) with a blown up engine (IMS failure). Planning to put in a 2.7t from a 2004 Audi AllRoad. But....I'm completely new to both of these platforms. Would be cool to get some info from someone with experience on either of them. I have good direction and plan of action on the actual swap, but I'm looking for info on what is the best way to refresh the porshe, and what is the best way to refresh the 2.7t. Thanks!

Agreed!!! Always like to see that Porsche too.

We need an update!

Didn’t realize there was a setting in the group for sharing addresses. You can go to the group page and click on your username to input your address For your Santa to see.

Sorry I missed this, if we can wrangle together at least one more person along with you, we could make things work.

Sorry guys I dropped my balls on this one. If I can jump in this I'd love to be involved. Here's a picture of my daughter's BMW

Fine by me!

Broke in with a 12” blade on my M12 hackzall cutting through the passenger latch arm. Luckily Gibson’s had a good set of latches, catches and cables I scored for $20. Everything is in working order now 👍

Would everyone be ok with using DrawNames.com for secret Santa? It will make the picks for us and that way I get to have an anonymous grifter as well. We use this for our family and it works well. I can set up restrictions on not getting the same recipient as last year. I could make a group and then when you draw a name you can send an anonymous message to your recipient via draw names to get their address.

133,400 Changed the oil in the rear differential. I used full synthetic liqui moly 75w-90 and a couple transfer pumps to get it done. Old oil was in quite good shape, I don’t recall seeing records of it being changed but it looks like it was. Still, the new stuff is way lighter in color and it’s good peace of mind. I only got about 3/4 of a quart out so I’ll maybe do it again in 10-20,000 miles once it’s all mixed in. I also noticed some coolant under the car the other day, so while it was on the lift I pulled the belly pan and took a peek. It seems like there’s two leaks: - One appeared to be a loose hose clamp on the water pump; I tightened it and will re-check in a few weeks. - The other seems to be either a leak at the seam of the radiator on the drivers side, or the o-ring on the upper rad hose. It kinda looks like it’s spraying, but I wonder if it’s wind blowing it off of the radiator as it leaks and spreading it all over the underside. I’m going to swap the o-ring this week sometime and see if that fixes it, and if it doesn’t I’ll get a new rad. I’m considering a full aluminum replacement to bulletproof it, but we’ll see. This one should be under warranty still but if it failed this fast I’m not sure if I want to put the same thing back in.

Count me in!

Secret Santa Time !!! Assignments will be done on Tues 11/21/2022 PM/text me your address if you are interested in participating and you will be added to the list. General guideline for gifts is ~$20 or more if you choose. Gifts can be sent or opened at any time but it's more magical when the presents are opened or revealed on Christmas Eve/Christmas Day. Please reply in this thread with what you received! It's all part of the fun to see what others got and to verify gifts made it to their destination. PARTICIPANTATIONS: ----------------------------------------- YoungCR JDesign WasntM3 m42b32 P_Roloff Patsbimmer1 Rampelsauce Rekpoint

Behind on updates but October's project was the 100k service punch list. I won't be doing a project this big again without a garage, setup/organization and mainly weather dragged this out over 3.5 weekends for me but I'd say its a solid 3-4 day amount of wrenching for all of this. Overall the work itself wasn't as daunting as I anticipated. Im guessing this engine had a walnut blast at some point, the worst build up was in the intake runners themselves but the valves had minimal carbon buildup so I ended up not performing a walnut blast. I had read online somewhere that somebody just soaked their intake manifold in ZEP Industrial Purple Degreaser so I gave it a shot and was pleased with the results. Menards has 5 gal jugs so I dumped all of that in and then added another 3ish gallons of water to get the intake completely submerged but wanted to keep the concentrate as strong as possible. I ended up soaking it for a week, the runners came out almost perfect. All the heavy build up was taken care of but there were still sections of minimal surface buildup that was really baked on. I did pressure wash as well to clean out debris and I was able to get a little bit more of the surface buildup off but not too much. I think with another treatment of Liquid Moly Diesel Purge the valves will be in great shape as well. One thing that wasn't one the recommended parts list was 11612246949, the mating gaskets for the intake bolts. The metal washer was either rusted or separating from the gasket on about half of mine. I wanna say it was a 16mm I used to seat them. I did a majority of the jobs in 3 groups: top, front and exhaust side of the motor. I mainly referred to the TIS on instructions and torque values but the TME YouTube videos were a great help too for some tips/shortcuts. For doing the flywheel I did buy CTA Tools 2890 BMW T.D.C. Pin for locking the crank but that particular tool was just too long to fit into the access hole. I had bought a generic version of special tool 118180 per the TIS for walnut blasting so I ended up locking the crank that way. More expensive tool but easier to work with and I can use it on my other cars as well. Per the TIS the factory M57 water pump gasket is integrated with another cover gasket and needs to be chiseled off at the 3 tabs. These are the 3 locations to take some of the guess work out as there wasn't a diagram. The clutched alternator pulley also wasn't on my list and luckily TME had just a couple left in stock at the time. I did not end up doing the belt tensioner as the tube is seized into the motor. The idler pulley was already updated so I'm saving that battle for another day. Apparently removing the alternator and mounts below will gain more access into pulling that out. Took me quite a few tries to get the A/C belt back on as well as it kept being off by 1 rib. Didn't get pics but now that I have an air compressor I bought a UView 550000 as someone else on here had recommended a while back and holy shit was it worth every penny. It took me more time to mix the coolant concentrate then to fill the system itself to capacity and having the peace of mind knowing there weren't any leaks beforehand was great too. The UView 550500 is the all plastic economy version and cheaper yet HF has a Maddox clone now too but I preferred the metal body/fittings for just a bit more. Valve cover gasket was easy and I was happy with how things looked under there. Besides the removal/install of the charge pipes, my other least favorite part of this project was the vacuum block. It's just a rats nest of plugs in a tight space to get it off but install is easier than removal. Still have a few things to button up but for the most part the motor is back in shape and we've continued to rack up the miles on this. Of course shutting the hood after finishing everything, the latch sounded different. Few days later when I went to add washer fluid I found out the passenger side latch is jammed or broke. Cables are all pretty stretched at this point but I tried the 3/16 rod trick to push on the latch through the gap between on the side of the radiator but it still won't release. So I get to perform another surgery this weekend 🙄

Broken link^

Just found this tonight: Looks like BMW finally put out a recall for the VANOS bolts issue. I wonder if it’s anything more/different compared to the service this car already had? From what I remember the bolts were replaced with steel ones? Sounds like the same. Also a good reminder to get the car in for the PCV heater recall as well.

I've used an Ozium Single-Shot Fogger and another brand that I cant find online. Having access to a ozone machine is 100X better idea though!

Not much has been going on other than spending a lot of time detailing and it looks like I’m getting good at it. I used Adam’s “9” year ceramic coat, I doubt it will last even half as long around here. The result is amazing, I would easily pay for this service. So easy to maintain and so hard to get dirty, looking forward to washing this tomorrow.

Yeah, the cabin filter was something of a last resort if nothing else fixes it. I’ll definitely take you up on that, I’ve heard great things about those!