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P_Roloff

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P_Roloff last won the day on May 11

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About P_Roloff

  • Birthday 11/19/1998

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    Madison

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  1. I can’t wait to see them done. Of course, their polisher has been out for a month for eye surgery (safety squints not cutting it maybe?) so this is just waiting in limbo for them to finish. Ugh.
  2. Thread jack, but if you want the pro strat for boat oil changes, the next time you do it buy or make a drain hose kit. My parents inboard came with this setup from the factory and it’s slick as shit, and so easy. Just snake the tube out of the boat drain plug, put a drain pan underneath, and pop the cap off. Easiest oil change I’ve ever done. Example of a kit: https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sierra-18-7891-oil-drain-kit.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_9PmkLjb9wIVBezjBx3cYQ45EAQYAiABEgKgXfD_BwE
  3. I am 100% in for next year. Bit off more that I could chew time-wise this spring so it’s looking more like mid summer when the e30 will be back on the road, but I definitely want to do this and would love to make it an annual thing.
  4. 110,657 Oil change and filter, just received all the VANOS rebuilt parts, valve cover gasket and a few other odds and ends so I can take care of a few leaks and the VANOS system all at once. I have a full set of coils and rear brake parts also on order to go in as soon as they get here. Planning for a trip to Voyageurs NP at the end of the month and need to make sure everything is all sorted for that. In other news, the M-Systems are in the process of being refinished, they’re at the polishers getting the lips polished out then I’ll paint the centers in the stock black. Already have a set of Michelin Pilot A/S3+’s to go on. Can’t wait!
  5. Looks great, definitely a worthwhile improvement!
  6. I believe the donut gaskets can both be replaced, however I have only ever done the one that sits loose between the flanges on the cat and cat back section. I’d like to preface this by saying I have an aftermarket muffler so it might not be the same, but on mine, one donut is pressed onto one of the pipes on the cat side, with an inch or two of pipe extending beyond it, and the other cat side pipe ends in just a flared flange. On the cat back side, both pipe ends are flared. Thus, when you put them together, the small protruding pipe section on the cat side serves to line everything up, and once it’s nearly in place you slip the other donut in between the two flared flanges on the second side and then bolt everything together to hold it all in place. So yes, you should in theory be able to replace them both. The donut that is pressed on will probably have to be cut off, however, if your exhaust is anything like mine was. I also just took a closer look at your pictures, and it appears one of your bolt flanges is broken in half on the cat side, so that’ll be your bigger issue here. That’ll require fab work of some sort because those wont come off/go back on due to the flared pipe ends.
  7. Might be worth checking the gauge cluster if you had it out, the speed sensor wire to the back of it can get loose/disconnected and that stops the cruise working. Mine was non-functional for years until I checked, that’s all that was keeping it from working.
  8. Oh heck yeah. I’ll shoot ya a text when I’m getting closer to doing it, think I’m going to order the seal and rattle kit sometime this week. I bought a spare m50 vanos unit so the plan is to rebuild that unit and then toss it into my car when I’m doing the VCG. Any compensation/beverage preference? If @m42b32 falls though, I’ll let you know! We currently live about 10min from each other haha so it’s nice and easy to trade parts and tools.
  9. Like the title says, looking to rent/borrow a set of timing tools for replacing the vanos unit on a M50tu, so the cam lock blocks, exhaust cam tool, chain lock pin, etc. If anyone has the vanos tools also (soft vise jaws, modified 18mm socket) that would also be desired. Willing to compensate with monies, parts or beverages of your choice. Thanks!
  10. What an awesome car, I really enjoyed the short stint I got behind the wheel. I’m sure it’ll do well, it’s an awesome spec and you took good care of it. Ill be watching the auction closely once it goes up!
  11. Noted, good to know. I’m perhaps unnecessarily wary of flaring my own lines, but it’s an option for sure. Might’ve been the shitty kits I used in the past though too. Bending the trailing arm line wasn’t too bad from what I remember, but I suppose these lines are a bit more complicated. I’ll let you know! It’s probably going to come down to price, if the OEM lines and fittings come out to be more than $150 or so I might just get the chase bays setup to be done with it.
  12. Got some more work done today, but more of a one step forward, 1.5 steps back deal. I successfully pulled the tank, no thanks to the engineer that specced those horrible ass crimp fittings to all the fuel lines (I have choice words I’d like to use, but won’t). They do their job fine but are such a pain when it comes time to replacing and removing things. Anywho, got the tank down, all the lines and senders/pump and whatnot transferred to the new tank. Fit was pretty solid, the new mounting grommets fit in snugly, the sender and pump fit tightly, and all bracketry mounts right up. My only gripe is that the tank thickness appears to be different between the replacement and OEM one where the senders mount, so you cannot use new OEM o-rings; thankfully, they include slightly thinner o-rings in the packaging, but something worth noting. Otherwise, barring the lack of drain plug everything seems to be more than up to snuff. The holes all seem to line up well with the mounting points on the body, finish is nice, all the inlets/outlets are in the correct spots. Honestly, if they had painted it black, you could’ve told me it was genuine BMW and I might’ve believed you. So that was a win, but when disconnecting the fuel lines to remove the tank I noticed that my fuel hard lines were pretty crusty. So those need to be done. I have no desire to burn this car down or worse, and it seems foolish to not take the opportunity to fix it all while it’s disconnected. In the same vein, I noticed the rear brake lines were also getting pretty gnarly. I replaced the hard lines on the trailing arms a few years ago but never touched the soft or hard lines upstream of that, and they’re pretty bad (soft lines have hairline cracks, hard line junctions look like they spent time on the titanic, etc.). So the plan is to either buy all new OEM hardlines from FCP and bend them myself, or install the ChaseBays hard line delete that just runs soft lines all the way back and to the trailing arms. It takes it down to three total lines for the whole rear brake system after the ABS pump, and I’m weighing whether the cost is worth the simplicity it adds. Any thoughts? Potential concerns about longevity? https://www.chasebays.com/collections/google/products/chase-bays-front-to-rear-brake-lines-rear-hard-line-delete-82-91-bmw-e30?yoReviewsPage=2 In other news, got the e34 into full winter mode just in time for spring, oh well. Mudflaps got added to keep crap off the rockers, and roof rack installed to carry the old fuel tank 😂 what, did you think I was going to put it in the backseat?
  13. Welcome back, alpine white for the win! I don’t have any of the specific things you’re looking for, but I have lots of random e30 stuff laying around, let me know if you need anything! Of note, I have a set of parts sport seats (more like 1.5 seats honestly, one is pretty trashed) so if whatever seats you buy need any mechanical work/parts I might have something for you. Looking forward to seeing the e30 at the picnic!
  14. I have nothing constructive to add, but if you import a car, want to toss a set of e30 euro bumpers in the back seat for me?
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