jc43089

I forgot the coding part, did you get it from Xemodex? I'm glad I didn't need to deal with that as mine was fine, my pump would run intermittently and it sounded weak when it was running, you can activate the pump with VIDA and watch the pump current draw and the output pressure. Do you have a VIDA/DICE setup? It is the most important thing for troubleshooting on a Volvo. You need a decent air compressor for an HVLP gun but not a huge one. I think my little one I used for painting is around 2hp, 4.5 CFM at 90PSI. My compressor has a 4 gallon tank and then after the dryer was another 30 gallon tank. It was losing ground slowly as I painted but I gave it 30 seconds between parts to catch up and never had a problem. You need very dry air though, I made an ice powered air dryer that works really well for cheap, let me know if you want details on it. It worked so well that the dessicant final dryer never even had any color change. I made a "booth" with tyvek wrap and had 3 box fans exhausting under the garage door and everything inside the booth had clear coat on it.

e39 540i/6 for 2000$, electrical issues. https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/pts/d/chippewa-falls-2000-bmw-540i/6923419471.html e39 528i with no reverse for 1000$ https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/pts/d/galesville-2000-bmw-528i/6956314231.html

You rode supermoto with the W.A.R. guys didn't you? Not a smart move lol. I got rid of my bike before that, this is my old bike. '87 VFR700. After 3 speeding tickets in a month and almost losing my drivers license it had to go... I loved the sound of the gear drive cams and the V4.

Looks the same as the P2R Haldex unit. Worst design ever! Why would it be designed so that you have to remove the driveshaft and input flange to get the 1/4" of clearance to remove the pump???? And why is the filter in such a difficult spot??? Also no drain plug for Haldex or the rear differential. I added 1/8" NPT drain plugs to both on mine when I had it. There is no way to properly remove all of the fluid with the suction method. Oh and the price for parts is insane. A new pump is over 300$ for that tiny little thing. Luckily mine failed open, probably due to the brushes being worn out but if it shorts then it will ruin the DEM and then you are out 400$ for that too. And the special fluid is 30$ / liter. I don't miss that car. As for the painting, see how it goes with the spray cans but I am a novice and had good results painting some parts on my van after a deer accident with an old HVLP gun. The spray cans will be very expensive to do a large area with. Mine turned out good and it was Toyota Beige with metal flake which made it trickier than just a regular color. The metal flake takes practice to lay down evenly but even that I figured out pretty quick how to make it look right. I tested on a piece of cardboard to get the gun set up. That looks like the 2k clear coat in a can. Huge sticky mess on everything. Make sure to protect everything, the over spray goes everywhere. It is different than paint over spray, somehow it coats everything in the room.

Those sound perfect, I just need to find a way to get them from there to here. I don't make it to Milwaukee often. I will see if I can figure something out. I live near Wausau if anyone is making the trip.

Also for whatever reason this thing gets pretty great gas mileage. I average about 27.5 mpg and I am not a hyper miler in any way. Gentler driving not over 60mph and it is more like 32mpg. I do use no ethanol 91 octane fuel, maybe those newer style fuel injectors help some.

Looks nice. The window switches in an e30 are full current switches so they get burned from arcing. They can be taken apart and cleaned to fix them. Start there, it's easy and free.

300,500 Installed a used door latch. No ratchet strap necessary to keep the door shut now. Otherwise just burning tires and oil.

We bought a house in June and are moved in. I will post some pics soon. I need to bring the van over still. It acquired a bees nest behind the front bumper so I guess that is a sign I haven't been working on it. I bought a used but not very old 10k asymmetrical Rotary lift from a friend that was closing down his shop. I need to drill a test hole in my garage floor to check for thickness before I figure out a plan for installation. If the floor isn't thick enough I will add a "shop" stall to the end of the garage with a higher ceiling to accommodate the full lift height. The existing part is 9'6" so it would still get quite a bit of height for cars but not so much for vans and trucks. The existing garage is 26' deep by 32' wide. It has a centered 16' door which is odd but it works. The lift bay would have to be angled some to work with that.

I need a coupe one. Too bad.

I couldn't handle (pun intended) the broken latch, I got one coming from Ebay for 45$. If you want to be blown away look up pricing on an e36 coupe door latch... https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-door-lock-front-left-51211977113 https://www.amazon.com/s?k=51211977113&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss

Help, my door latch quit latching and now I have to use a ratchet strap to hold the door shut and sometimes climb in the window. People look at me weird now. RealOEM tells me any e36 coupe, convertible, or compact latch will work. To clarify, it's the part on the door that locks to the post on the body, not the door handle. I am west of Wausau about 25 minutes. If you aren't local let me know shipped price to 54411.

Do you still have the shell? I need a drivers door latch. How much shipped to 54411 if you have it. It is not nearly as hard to remove as a door handle

I can't remember was this a coupe or sedan? I need a drivers side door latch, mine broke and using a ratchet strap to keep the door closed is not the most fun thing.

Nobody has old e30 bottlecaps?