jc43089

I use a lot of dish soap and manhandle the fcab onto the control arm without removing the control arm from the car. Just do them both and set it down and the soap will dry with the bushing in the correct position. Clean any rust from the end of the control arm before trying to install the bushing as it can be a fight to get them on, lots of soap and twist while pushing. For poly bushings I have had good results with the lube powerflex sells, I think I got a 6oz plastic jar of it.

Did you check clearance with plastigage?

Probably the head gasket.

The main thing that improves the driving feel is the subframe bushings because all of the rear suspension is attached to it. The differential bushings only hold the differential in place but it in no way affects your suspension geometry. In the e36 worn out bushings allow the differential to twist more and that puts a bending load on the front mounting bolt which eventually breaks it. I had the bolt break and made my own bushing to replace it instead of buying something. There are a few pictures in my thread. It keeps going for several posts.

Yea I did solid subframe and differential and still hardly noticed. I do notice sometimes when the LSD makes noises in tight corners and slight gear whine at certain speeds. I expected much more NVH especially because half of my interior is missing and it has 300k miles

I don't know if the subframe is anything like an e36 but I have solid aluminum rear subframe "bushings" and delrin differential mount bushings and only at certain times you can hear a faint noise from the differential. Otherwise no NVH noticeable at all. The rear feels very solid, highly recommended unless you are an old lady.

Excellent! This is in my opinion one of the best swaps for an e30. S52 power with the weight of the M42.

The door card is only the beginning. I don't have door cards and coupe door handles are the worst nightmare of my life. I would rather drop the rear subframe.

They are not on the realoem classic section so therefore they are not vintage yet. Also therefore you aren't old yet.

This is why I have 3 kids.

I agree, all of these DIY oil tests use the pressure method because all you need is a bearing rub test machine which is very simple. Just run something of decent quality you will be just fine. I run Royal Purple HPS which is about 8/qt but I don't go around telling everyone they should. For me to run that for 10k miles saves me time and money over using something else and changing it sooner. I couldn't get an engineer friend of mine to understand that running cheap conventional for 3/qt and changing it every 3k was actually more expensive than my "crazy magic oil". It actually cost him more money not to mention changing oil several times a year instead of once or twice depending how the 10k interval lands. Also no need for stickers to remind me, change at 140k, 150k, 160k etc. I do plan to do a Blackstone labs test but my observation is on the M50 that i rebuilt I opened it to swap in a different cam with about 50k since the rebuild and it looked spotless. In fact the casting was still gray with no brownish tint at all. This isn't the best picture but the brown cam is the M54B30 cam that was just installed.

Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one. Don't use a universal, too wobbly. You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?

Increase vigor on landlord!

35x11.5 = fuel mileage it was nice knowing you.

If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?