jc43089

I had an exciting day, Friday night one leg of my service shorted out and blew a fuse, it was shorted to ground. I didn't want to pay the after hours charge for the utility guys to come out so I made do without one leg and planned for today. I dug a 70' trench and made a Menard's run. I got a Type 3R breaker box to hang on the pole under the meter socket and other goodies. The co-op guys came this morning and replaced the janky old wiring with a 200A service to the new box on the pole, I just finished getting everything hooked up in the house, I replaced the breaker box in the house too because some genius didn't use duct seal and it was corroded on the neutral bus.

I will be right over there too, campsite 287. I'll have a black e36 coupe.

I thought it threaded on the outside, my bad. Don't pay attention to the e36 guy...

You don't have to get the shift knob off to remove the shift lever, it comes out the top. The white cup around the base needs to rotate and then will pull up, assuming you already removed the selector rod underneath.

If you totally can't get it off you can always cut a slit in it to split it and get a new one. Rather than damaging the strut housing trying to get it off.

With fire! Stock ones pull off, some aftermarket might have a set screw?

Yea, the dimensions are the same but the M bushings are more solid rubber and less air space.

If the fusible link is blown it will still crank. The ECU will be dead preventing a start though.

To install the control arm bushings they can be removed with an air chisel or cutting the rubber out and using a saw to split the outer ring so it collapses and falls out. To install they can be pressed in with a decent vise if you don't have a press. Pay attention to the orientation, and either get the offset or centered e36 M3 bushings. To get the control arm into the bushing I use dish soap. You need to install them onto the control arm last so the car can be set down quickly while the soap is still slippery, then they will be clocked correctly at ride height.

An earlier post he said he got 12V on the black/yellow wire at the starter, that comes from the ignition switch so it would seem to be working.

Does it crank if you use a jumper from the large red wire on the starter to the black/yellow wire? If it does then you know the grounds are all good. If it doesn't then there is a power or ground problem because you said the starter did work when you hooked power directly to it Next test would be to set your meter to DC volts and put one lead on a body ground and one on the engine block while someone attempts to crank. If you see voltage it means that something isn't grounded, it could be the starter body to the transmission if things are painted, or the engine block to the mount arm that has the ground strap on it.

FYI on the cruise control, are you removing it or what? The cable doesn't go through the firewall, it loops near the fusebox and goes go the throttle body. Unless you are talking about something else? Or is the e30 cruise control totally different? Maybe don't pay attention to me

Here is a link to the ETM. I assume most of the stuff is E30 wiring for the starter anyway. Here is a screenshot, there is no starter relay, if the black/yellow wire at the starter is getting 12V when the key is turned to the start position then there is a bad ground somewhere. http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1991 BMW 318i - 318is - 318ic Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf

Are you installing it where the TB heater nipple came from? I thought that was M12x1.5 and the sensors whether you have 1 or 2 are M14x1.5.

Is that on the outlet passage from the engine? The purpose of the fan is to be sure that the coolant supplied to the engine from the cold side of the radiator is below the switch setpoint. The main purpose to change that system is to put a lower temperature switch in when removing the mechanical fan. For example most e36 models come with a 91/99C switch for low/high speed. I have installed the factory 80/88C switch when removing the mechanical fan. Then the fan will activate when the coolant supply to the engine climbs to 80C (176F) and will ramp up to high speed when coolant reaches 88C (190F). That is plenty adequate to cool the engine. If you supply colder coolant it just causes the thermostat to be farther closed to restrict the flow so no more cooling is achieved. With the temp switch there you are measuring the coolant temp coming out of the engine which will always be the same (thermostat temperature) So there is no way to know if the coolant returning to the engine is cool enough to provide adequate cooling. The only thing it does is run the fan excessively depending on the combination of thermostat and fan switch temperature. Not trying to rain on your parade, just sharing what I have learned about these cooling systems.