jc43089

The only engine swaps I have done were pulling out running engines for better running engines. My e36 has 295k on the original M50. I have overhauled an M20 that had an unknown mileage over 280k and the crank and pistons were all still in spec, it just needed a light honing and new rings (I did install a re manufactured head because the original was cracked.) They don't break unless they are horribly neglected. Most of the swaps are either an M20 ETA to I swap. Or of course the M20 to or M/S50/2. Or the e36 game of M50/2 swap to S50/2.

Tire fitment unlikely without saw/grinder action. That is a big tire. Good call to replace the cabin filter. Probably 4 times the airflow now. I did that and flushed coolant and my heat is now very hot in my e36.

I have had much luck with clutch system bleeding with patience, once you get it together and fluid in, pump the pedal by hand a few times every half hour when you walk by. If you watch bubbles will rise into the reservoir. Every time you pump it the bubbles make their way higher in the system. Do no press the pedal with the slave removed from the transmission though, disappointing results. It sounds stupid but I have done several different car this way. Except my Volvo, that requires pressure flushing it backwards or you will never get all of the air out.

Washing my dads e39 after work today to store it for the winter. I don't know if I mentioned it before. It's a '98 528iT, 88k miles. It's rarely been winter driven so no rust at all. It has some dings and scuffs but in pretty good shape. It isn't anything spectacular Biarritz Blue with grey interior. But they have plenty of cars so no need to drive it in the winter.

I recommend OEM fuel line, the stuff FCP sells (CRP) is good. It is much more flexible than parts store line that I have previously used. I had replaced fuel lines with parts store high pressure hose and it leaked after a year when it was really cold out. The OEM has much better flexibility and I've never had a problem with it. Buy 5 meters of 8x13 from FCP and send it. 32$ for 5m is only 2$ a foot. It's totally worth it to have a roll on hand. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fuel-line-13311722262-5m#desc

Can relate, that took me back a few years. PC gaming on Battlefield 1942, Counter Strike, etc, good times. I feel old now.

295k, I swapped in a ZF power steering pump that I resealed, now I have power steering which is cool. I had a fuel leak by the filter so I replaced the filter and hoses The blower was squeaking so I removed the cowl cover thingy and the blower cover and oiled the bushings, good to go. I swapped in a rebuilt starter, much faster cranks for better starting in cold weather (last winter needed a heat lamp under the engine and 2 stroke oil in the gas to get it going below 0) I poured the oil out of the intake manifold that accumulates. I think I should install a catch can... And I also installed the Russian oil filter housing check valve. That works really well. Much better design and sturdier than the OE one. No more 10 seconds of oil pressure light on every cold start. Bought it on Ebay but this is their website, read fully for chuckles at awful translation. https://vanos-bmw.com/product/oil-valve-bmw-m50tu-m52-m52tu-m54-m56-11421713838

Thank you for properly understanding the fuel pressure regulator!

Dang, that is at least as cool as my van. Don't crush it. Finish and daily. If you drive it every other day and the hybrid the other days it will even out.

I was not suggesting that ARP stud kits are inferior to TTY bolts. I was stating that I though TTY bolts would be better than just picking 12.9 bolts. No background was given about intended use or modification from stock. Stockish engine, use TTY because they clearly work well. Significantly beyond stock engine use ARP. That would be my thoughts.

No problem at all to daily, I liked it better all around. My wife also would drive it and had no problems. It is in the van swap now if I ever get that done.

I still have my e36 I bought in 2008... It's a shell on a trailer in my parents driveway right now. I haven't touched it in 3 years unfortunately and I installed it's engine into a van. I guess I need that S85...

My thought is why would they use TTY bolts if regular ones would work? Doesn't the stretching create a stronger clamp to resist the compression? Also OE TTY bolts are super cheap.

FWIW I have a UUC aluminum flywheel on an M50 and it is fantastic. Comparable weight is 11.5 lbs vs dual mass being around 26 lbs. Minor gear rattle, but totally worth it.

Yes that is a non M axle.