jc43089

I did some work over the weekend, I made some aluminum rear subframe "bushings". That was excellent for solidifying the rear end of the car. And I also replaced all 4 of the control arm bushings/ball joints with all ball joints like the M cars have. I have UUC poly RTAB bushings so it is tight now. I have dimensions for the bushings if anyone needs to make their own, just message me. Also i got new tires put on today, I got a set of the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 in 225/50R16. After a 60$ rebate they were 352 shipped to my door from Tirerack. Pretty hard to beat that. The tires I had weren't great when I bought the wheels from Pat several years ago so I sure got my money's worth out of those. A little DIY alignment tonight and it's ready for the road trip to Elkhart Lake on Friday!

Looks good!

I see the issue now with the head port confusion for the temp senders. The OBD2 cars only have one M14x1.5 port with a dual function sending unit for ECU and dash gauge. The port you are using was originally for the throttle body heater circuit nipple. OBD1 heads have another M14x1.5 hole between those two, you can see in the casting where it would be. Easiest thing for you is just what you said, buy an M12x1.5 VDO sending unit.

Looks like rear main, the one lower in the picture is the front main housing cover which also has the intermediate shaft seal.

I had an exciting day, Friday night one leg of my service shorted out and blew a fuse, it was shorted to ground. I didn't want to pay the after hours charge for the utility guys to come out so I made do without one leg and planned for today. I dug a 70' trench and made a Menard's run. I got a Type 3R breaker box to hang on the pole under the meter socket and other goodies. The co-op guys came this morning and replaced the janky old wiring with a 200A service to the new box on the pole, I just finished getting everything hooked up in the house, I replaced the breaker box in the house too because some genius didn't use duct seal and it was corroded on the neutral bus.

I will be right over there too, campsite 287. I'll have a black e36 coupe.

I thought it threaded on the outside, my bad. Don't pay attention to the e36 guy...

You don't have to get the shift knob off to remove the shift lever, it comes out the top. The white cup around the base needs to rotate and then will pull up, assuming you already removed the selector rod underneath.

If you totally can't get it off you can always cut a slit in it to split it and get a new one. Rather than damaging the strut housing trying to get it off.

With fire! Stock ones pull off, some aftermarket might have a set screw?

Yea, the dimensions are the same but the M bushings are more solid rubber and less air space.

If the fusible link is blown it will still crank. The ECU will be dead preventing a start though.

To install the control arm bushings they can be removed with an air chisel or cutting the rubber out and using a saw to split the outer ring so it collapses and falls out. To install they can be pressed in with a decent vise if you don't have a press. Pay attention to the orientation, and either get the offset or centered e36 M3 bushings. To get the control arm into the bushing I use dish soap. You need to install them onto the control arm last so the car can be set down quickly while the soap is still slippery, then they will be clocked correctly at ride height.

An earlier post he said he got 12V on the black/yellow wire at the starter, that comes from the ignition switch so it would seem to be working.

Does it crank if you use a jumper from the large red wire on the starter to the black/yellow wire? If it does then you know the grounds are all good. If it doesn't then there is a power or ground problem because you said the starter did work when you hooked power directly to it Next test would be to set your meter to DC volts and put one lead on a body ground and one on the engine block while someone attempts to crank. If you see voltage it means that something isn't grounded, it could be the starter body to the transmission if things are painted, or the engine block to the mount arm that has the ground strap on it.