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P_Roloff

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Everything posted by P_Roloff

  1. How about for every month he doesn’t work on it, we replace one random (preferably hidden) stainless fastener with a zinc plated one until it gets worked on again?
  2. Man, we’re going to have to rename this site WIDiesels at this rate! Congrats on the pickup, I love the color combo! Any plans for deleting or upgrading?
  3. Yep, original clutch. That’s the plan if they have to pull anything at all, it still grabbed well but I could tell it was getting to the very end of the clutch range it felt like. Honestly wouldn’t be that upset, I have a whole pile of parts for them to replace if they do the clutch so it wouldn’t be that bad of a thing to happen. And then it’d be done and good to go for another 100k+!
  4. 118,9xx: First time stranded! Clutch pedal went to the floor leaving my neighborhood this morning, it’ll be on its way to the shop tonight. Luckily, I was close enough to walk home but definitely an inconvenience. Hoping it’s just a slave cylinder and it can be back on the road quickly, I have no time to look at it or fix it (or the e30 or e28 to drive in the meantime, I should really get on those). Oh well, not bad for ~60k miles of ownership so far to have this be the biggest inconvenience with it so far. VANOS is starting to rattle in addition to torque loss down low, so that along with brakes front and rear are on the docket for this fall once time becomes available. Really need to catch up on maintenance with this one.
  5. Thanks! Long term, I’ve always wanted to try to drug that is boost, maybe this’ll be my muse… Do it! I think they’d look great! A bit heavy if I’m being honest, but they’re going to be pure street wheels for me and I think they’ll do that job quite nicely.
  6. Awesome, great to know. Provided it runs, I’ll take a headlight set and grille set. I’ll kill over the interior, I can’t decide if I want to just replace the rear seat so I can put people back there in a pinch, or if I want to go all out and put door cards and some of the other things back in. The old rear seat looks solid but has a few spots of mold at the bottom edges on the side, anyone have tips for removing that to try and save it? I’m thinking I’ll steam clean or just soap and water scrub the rest of the interior, it honestly doesn’t look bad but I want to make sure I get rid of any mold, mildew or mouse turds that are still lurking. Diagnosis process I’m thinking is something like this: Put a battery in and check if the fuel pumps are running, and then make sure it’ll turn over (disconnect fuel pump relay and just bump the starter), drain fuel tank and put some fresh stuff in there, and replace fuel filter. Drain and refill oil with the cheapest crap I can find just to have fresh stuff again. Crank without fuel pump to circulate oil. Check CPS to make sure the wire isn’t just cut or something. Make sure all other obvious things are plugged in and appear to be functional. Give er a crank and see what happens. If no start, check for spark and pull plugs. I’m taking a vacation next week so I probably won’t get to it for another two weekends, but I’m excited t get the old thing revived!
  7. 116,4xx: Oil change and filter, used the oreilly’s house brand full synthetic because they had nothing else in 10w-40 and I figured that’d be better than running something lighter weight from Castrol or Mobil. Replaced the two front tires with used takeoffs as a stopgap for when the 17’a go on, I’ve had approximately zero free time in the last month so that project has stalled. The fronts were down to the wear bars, rears are still okay for a little while, so just wanted to buy myself a few weeks before I can hopefully get the true summer set finished up. In other news, I bought another car! It’s crusty, non-running, and has more damage than I originally thought, but I paid less than $1k for it (and it’s a NC car, so really no rust underneath) so I figured that at worst it’ll get parted, and at best I’ll have a fun beater to use to keep miles off of the e34. Stats: 1988 535is, salmon silver over blue with a 5spd. All of the “is” specific parts are gone with the exception of the LSD. The only remaining seat part is the rear seat bottom, but I have a spare set of e30 sport fronts that I’ll be tossing in once I make some adapters. It appears to have been set up for track/DE work before it took the hit, it’s rocking bilstein sports all the way around with what I believe are racing dynamics lowering springs. I noted some new suspension bits like dogbones in my inspection of the car as well, so it appears to have been already at least partially gone through. Brake is still firm, and it has braided lines throughout. Interior is partially gutted, with no door cards or carpet and an electrical cutoff in the rear seat bulkhead. Overall, not bad for a car that’s been sitting for at least 5 years. Current plan is to try to get it running, then evaluate my costs and options from there once I can suss out the rest of the systems in the car. If anyone has e28 fenders, grilles and high beams/headlight assemblies they’d be willing to part with, I’m interested and on the lookout. I also picked up a set of 17x8.5 MOMO heritage 6’s the other day off their site, they’re holding a buy two-get two sale thru early September and I couldn’t resist. Hoping they show up quickly, at which point they’ll be installed on the e34 with some Pilot Sport A/S 3+’s.
  8. Highly recommend the m18 mid torque as a beefier gun for suspension/driveline/brake work, I use it arguably more than the stubby. They’re great complements to one another, especially if you ever work on anything heavier.
  9. 110,657 Oil change and filter, just received all the VANOS rebuilt parts, valve cover gasket and a few other odds and ends so I can take care of a few leaks and the VANOS system all at once. Replaced all 6 coils with Bremi units and solved an idle misfire/stumble when pulling away from lights. Planned on replacing rear brakes due to the “low brake pad squeal” noise starting and had all the parts necessary in hand, but pulled the rear wheels and had decent pad left. Probably going to take care of them later this summer when I have more time. New giubo is also in hand, the old one is a bit cracked and provides a good excuse to replace the shift shaft and input shaft seals on the transmission as well. Also going to be a “when I get to it” project, probably slated for this fall. 112,8xx Took a ~800 mile round trip to the boundary waters over Memorial Day weekend, not a single hiccup and averaged something like 23-24mpg even with a big ass canoe on the roof the whole way. Had awesome weather, great fishing, and an overall good time. Got to bomb a total of around 40 miles of forest roads to and from the entry point too, which was a riot. In other news, I finally picked up the M-Systems! Not overjoyed with how they turned out and I think I’m going to polish them out further myself, but the bulk of the work is done. The shop that did it was unable to get into the sharp corners of the lips to fully polish them out, and also managed to round over the corners of the valve stem openings so probably wouldn’t go back, but after the 2 months that I waited I was just happy to have them back. Pics:
  10. Looks awesome! Details on the underseat sub? Depending on how I feel about the 3.73 that I’m about to put into my car, I would maybe swap with you if yours is also a LSD. I’m not sure if it’ll lose a noticeable amount of pep with also going to a manual, but if I find I want something shorter I’d maybe entertain a trade. I try to do more backroad driving anyways, so ~3500-3600 on the interstate doesn’t bother me. Can’t hear the engine anyways over all the wind noise 😂. We could also start with you driving my car once it’s done for you to get a rough feel of the difference. There’s some weight penalty on mine for sure but I bet it’ll be enough to make a rough call.
  11. I can’t wait to see them done. Of course, their polisher has been out for a month for eye surgery (safety squints not cutting it maybe?) so this is just waiting in limbo for them to finish. Ugh.
  12. Thread jack, but if you want the pro strat for boat oil changes, the next time you do it buy or make a drain hose kit. My parents inboard came with this setup from the factory and it’s slick as shit, and so easy. Just snake the tube out of the boat drain plug, put a drain pan underneath, and pop the cap off. Easiest oil change I’ve ever done. Example of a kit: https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sierra-18-7891-oil-drain-kit.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_9PmkLjb9wIVBezjBx3cYQ45EAQYAiABEgKgXfD_BwE
  13. I am 100% in for next year. Bit off more that I could chew time-wise this spring so it’s looking more like mid summer when the e30 will be back on the road, but I definitely want to do this and would love to make it an annual thing.
  14. 110,657 Oil change and filter, just received all the VANOS rebuilt parts, valve cover gasket and a few other odds and ends so I can take care of a few leaks and the VANOS system all at once. I have a full set of coils and rear brake parts also on order to go in as soon as they get here. Planning for a trip to Voyageurs NP at the end of the month and need to make sure everything is all sorted for that. In other news, the M-Systems are in the process of being refinished, they’re at the polishers getting the lips polished out then I’ll paint the centers in the stock black. Already have a set of Michelin Pilot A/S3+’s to go on. Can’t wait!
  15. Looks great, definitely a worthwhile improvement!
  16. I believe the donut gaskets can both be replaced, however I have only ever done the one that sits loose between the flanges on the cat and cat back section. I’d like to preface this by saying I have an aftermarket muffler so it might not be the same, but on mine, one donut is pressed onto one of the pipes on the cat side, with an inch or two of pipe extending beyond it, and the other cat side pipe ends in just a flared flange. On the cat back side, both pipe ends are flared. Thus, when you put them together, the small protruding pipe section on the cat side serves to line everything up, and once it’s nearly in place you slip the other donut in between the two flared flanges on the second side and then bolt everything together to hold it all in place. So yes, you should in theory be able to replace them both. The donut that is pressed on will probably have to be cut off, however, if your exhaust is anything like mine was. I also just took a closer look at your pictures, and it appears one of your bolt flanges is broken in half on the cat side, so that’ll be your bigger issue here. That’ll require fab work of some sort because those wont come off/go back on due to the flared pipe ends.
  17. Might be worth checking the gauge cluster if you had it out, the speed sensor wire to the back of it can get loose/disconnected and that stops the cruise working. Mine was non-functional for years until I checked, that’s all that was keeping it from working.
  18. Oh heck yeah. I’ll shoot ya a text when I’m getting closer to doing it, think I’m going to order the seal and rattle kit sometime this week. I bought a spare m50 vanos unit so the plan is to rebuild that unit and then toss it into my car when I’m doing the VCG. Any compensation/beverage preference? If @m42b32 falls though, I’ll let you know! We currently live about 10min from each other haha so it’s nice and easy to trade parts and tools.
  19. Like the title says, looking to rent/borrow a set of timing tools for replacing the vanos unit on a M50tu, so the cam lock blocks, exhaust cam tool, chain lock pin, etc. If anyone has the vanos tools also (soft vise jaws, modified 18mm socket) that would also be desired. Willing to compensate with monies, parts or beverages of your choice. Thanks!
  20. What an awesome car, I really enjoyed the short stint I got behind the wheel. I’m sure it’ll do well, it’s an awesome spec and you took good care of it. Ill be watching the auction closely once it goes up!
  21. Noted, good to know. I’m perhaps unnecessarily wary of flaring my own lines, but it’s an option for sure. Might’ve been the shitty kits I used in the past though too. Bending the trailing arm line wasn’t too bad from what I remember, but I suppose these lines are a bit more complicated. I’ll let you know! It’s probably going to come down to price, if the OEM lines and fittings come out to be more than $150 or so I might just get the chase bays setup to be done with it.
  22. Got some more work done today, but more of a one step forward, 1.5 steps back deal. I successfully pulled the tank, no thanks to the engineer that specced those horrible ass crimp fittings to all the fuel lines (I have choice words I’d like to use, but won’t). They do their job fine but are such a pain when it comes time to replacing and removing things. Anywho, got the tank down, all the lines and senders/pump and whatnot transferred to the new tank. Fit was pretty solid, the new mounting grommets fit in snugly, the sender and pump fit tightly, and all bracketry mounts right up. My only gripe is that the tank thickness appears to be different between the replacement and OEM one where the senders mount, so you cannot use new OEM o-rings; thankfully, they include slightly thinner o-rings in the packaging, but something worth noting. Otherwise, barring the lack of drain plug everything seems to be more than up to snuff. The holes all seem to line up well with the mounting points on the body, finish is nice, all the inlets/outlets are in the correct spots. Honestly, if they had painted it black, you could’ve told me it was genuine BMW and I might’ve believed you. So that was a win, but when disconnecting the fuel lines to remove the tank I noticed that my fuel hard lines were pretty crusty. So those need to be done. I have no desire to burn this car down or worse, and it seems foolish to not take the opportunity to fix it all while it’s disconnected. In the same vein, I noticed the rear brake lines were also getting pretty gnarly. I replaced the hard lines on the trailing arms a few years ago but never touched the soft or hard lines upstream of that, and they’re pretty bad (soft lines have hairline cracks, hard line junctions look like they spent time on the titanic, etc.). So the plan is to either buy all new OEM hardlines from FCP and bend them myself, or install the ChaseBays hard line delete that just runs soft lines all the way back and to the trailing arms. It takes it down to three total lines for the whole rear brake system after the ABS pump, and I’m weighing whether the cost is worth the simplicity it adds. Any thoughts? Potential concerns about longevity? https://www.chasebays.com/collections/google/products/chase-bays-front-to-rear-brake-lines-rear-hard-line-delete-82-91-bmw-e30?yoReviewsPage=2 In other news, got the e34 into full winter mode just in time for spring, oh well. Mudflaps got added to keep crap off the rockers, and roof rack installed to carry the old fuel tank 😂 what, did you think I was going to put it in the backseat?
  23. Welcome back, alpine white for the win! I don’t have any of the specific things you’re looking for, but I have lots of random e30 stuff laying around, let me know if you need anything! Of note, I have a set of parts sport seats (more like 1.5 seats honestly, one is pretty trashed) so if whatever seats you buy need any mechanical work/parts I might have something for you. Looking forward to seeing the e30 at the picnic!
  24. I have nothing constructive to add, but if you import a car, want to toss a set of e30 euro bumpers in the back seat for me?
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