straight6pwr

the grill/ugly appearance should be talked about. i think what's terrible is that people will excuse how bad it looks because of how well it performs. it IS possible to have both.

the new m3/m4: not even going to give them the satisfaction of reposting the photos. too ugly.

aww that is a super bummer! hopefully it can be fixed up easily. be careful handling/removing those trim pieces just above the rockers, they are NLA as I recall.

how about retractable casters? Two fixed casters at the back, always touching the ground, and two retractable at the front, hidden behind the corner frame posts youve shown in the sketchup model. build the frame so that when the fronts are down, the frame is resting on the ground and the top is level. then just activate the front casters to move the whole bench as needed. use adjustable feet under the front for when its resting. i'd also recommend trying to get some amount of toe kick space under the front. besides its obvious function, it will also keep the bottom frame of the bench cleaner

that really makes my skin crawl. can afford lambo, asks for handouts for turbo?

porsche 918

those awd 5 speeds must be rare! nothing better than a manual awd touring.

he had a trickle charger on every car, it looks like. serious car guy stuff. also, from the news story: seems worth noting in a search and seizure of millions of dollars of property, drugs, and illegal weapons.

the minute i get my hands on another e30 hood, youll be gettin a call from me the question is: tictac, bastos, or fina

Yes!

the 16" spal fan does work great when its on. you can see the needle fall almost instantly. there is actually no room for a mech. fan with the 24v swap, so that is not an option. i think i might have to get a t e m p g u n to check real temperatures of the radiator and engine.

ok e30 guys, need some help. my aux fan stopped working a couple months ago and ive finally got around to addressing it. the fan ended up being fine, i think my temporary wiring failed at some joint. anyways, i moved to step 2 of temporary wiring to solve it. i've got the system setup as follows: 4-pin relay. 1. Input power from main positive battery terminal in engine bay, with 30amp fuse inline. 2.Output power to Spal fan 3.Switch power from aux fan wiring (12v on ignition) 4.Switch ground to main engine chassis ground. the Spal fan ground then goes through the single temp (82c) switch i installed in the radiator, which then goes to chassis ground.: so, this all works great and the fan did switch on when the temp switch got hot enough and the car cooled down. however, the fan kicked on when needle on the gauge was about a needle's width shy of red. i assumed the lower temp (82c) would get the fan going sooner than that. it seemed to me that the top right corner of the radiator was cooler than the rest of the radiator and that may be why it happened. i've never actually owned an e30 that had working ac, or that overheated in any way to have the AUX fan kick on, so this is new territory for me. is it supposed to kick on that late?

lets also not forget BaT has rigged the system so they cant lose, even if the buyer or seller gets boned.

lookup cyclocross bikes. they are basically what you'll be building. its a sport invented for the road race guys to have something to do in the 'off season' in parts of the world that have winter. i turned an 80s hybird into a cyclocross bike for my commuting for a while. its really the best 'all-rounder' if you ask me. light enough and low rolling resistance with small tires that you dont feel like the bike is slowing you down, but capable enough to do just about any dirt trail that doesnt have jumps and logs and stuff. those calipers are awfully tight on the rims, be careful with knobby tire sizes, there isnt much room there. if the bike has 700c wheels, you could downsize to 650c and add long reach calipers, but that might be more effort/$$ than youre looking to put forth and you cant put disc brakes on any bike to fix tire clearance, either. its frame dependent. you could change the front forks to add discs, but for the back you're stuck. drop bars are actually quite comfortable if you get them in the right spot. you could get a new, longer stem, or one that has a 45deg rise to get the bars up in the air more. i'd recommend converting to STI shifters (the kind that are integrated into the brake levers) and keeping your bars. the geometry of straight bars on a road bike can be awkward. for a cheaper fix, I used thumb shifters. also, depending on what bars you use, you can run into issues with brake levers. putting mountain bike style brake levers on a road bike doesnt work that well, and visa-versa. they pull different amounts of cable.