B C Posted September 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 (Reserved for future post about stripped threads) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 (Reserved for future post about stripped threads) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 (Reserved for backhanded comment about you doing torques wrong) B C and i_love_cars 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 I want to believe you aren't doing something wrong, but I'm having a very hard time doing so. I've rebuilt many of these motors, and the only time I had a stripped thread was the small torx screws that go into the timing cover. Those cam caps are a glorified hand tight, so I don't quite see how you are having so many issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 I've been a ding-dong many times before but I promise that in this instance I am 100% right and the cylinder head threads are 100% wrong. Mitch mentioned my torque values may be in yard-pounds [emoji23] Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_love_cars Posted September 10, 2017 Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Let me know when you are ready to work on this again. I will stop by and supervise to provide the final word on whether or not you are right or the cylinder head threads are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsbimmer1 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 You know there are different tightening torques for M6, M7 and M8 bolts right? Are you sure you don't have M6 bolts? Those are only torqued to 7ft/lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 How do you have the camshaft? Could you take a picture of what you are doing? I am confused (easily). When I swapped an intake cam I had it turned so only the #1 cylinder lobes were down and tightened that cap first to compress the valve springs and my helper was holding the cam with a wrench to prevent it from turning while I installed the other caps and torqued it down. I think I might have needed longer bolts because the studs weren't long enough to get the nuts started. and then once all of the others were installed I rotated it so there was no pressure on that spot and removed the bolts and put the studs back on. It was a while ago and I was installing an m54b30 cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 1 hour ago, patsbimmer1 said: You know there are different tightening torques for M6, M7 and M8 bolts right? Are you sure you don't have M6 bolts? Those are only torqued to 7ft/lbs. Most definitely M7. 1 hour ago, jc43089 said: How do you have the camshaft? Could you take a picture of what you are doing? I am confused (easily). When I swapped an intake cam I had it turned so only the #1 cylinder lobes were down and tightened that cap first to compress the valve springs and my helper was holding the cam with a wrench to prevent it from turning while I installed the other caps and torqued it down. I think I might have needed longer bolts because the studs weren't long enough to get the nuts started. and then once all of the others were installed I rotated it so there was no pressure on that spot and removed the bolts and put the studs back on. It was a while ago and I was installing an m54b30 cam. This is exactly how I am doing it. Cyl #1 lobes are the only ones under any valve spring pressure. Bearing cap #2 is installed first with a1/4 turn on each nut until its flush with the cam tray, then all other bearing caps are installed flush, then torqued evenly (1/4 turn on each nut) until it reaches 11 ft-lbs or the threads strip, whichever comes first. At this point I am planning on having to repair every last one of them. If in some horrible nightmare I manage to start pulling-out the threads on the repaired holes, that's the point at which I will part it out, ban myself, lease a new Prius, and disappear from the car community forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Strange. Is this on just one of the cams? Did you remove the studs from the head ever? I'm just speculating, could the studs not be fully seated and the stud is turning in the aluminum rather than the nut turning on the stud? Just grasping at straws. I guess I would just put inserts in all of them at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 On 9/11/2017 at 9:36 AM, Snap said: At this point I am planning on having to repair every last one of them. If in some horrible nightmare I manage to start pulling-out the threads on the repaired holes, that's the point at which I will part it out, ban myself, lease a new Prius, and disappear from the car community forever. Thanks. I just spit water all over laughing. Could it maybe justtttt MAYBE be that your torque wrench is out of calibration? I know you said that it is certified and calibrated, but it can EASILY get out of calibration if you leave it out and your offspring decides to play light saber wars with it or you simply tightened it to 100ftlbs and leave it like that over night for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Stripped 6 or so with a small beam type torque wrench, went out and bought this Husky click style specifically so that the torque value I need lands right in the middle of the range and includes a calibration certificate. The other 4 or 5 have been stripped with the new wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Out of curiosity, do you have the correct torque value? I have heard that sometimes the bentley/hanes/etc can be off at times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 If the torque value keeps stripping them then don't go so tight? Insanity is doing the same thing over again expecting different results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsbimmer1 Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 4 hours ago, m42b32 said: Out of curiosity, do you have the correct torque value? I have heard that sometimes the bentley/hanes/etc can be off at times He's right. I checked it against BMW's repair procedures. m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Attempt number 6382: Started torquing intake cam. Stripped a thread. (Serenity now!) Didn't rage. Repaired stripped thread. Started torquing cam again and.... 1 cam successfully torqued!!!! Earl, Jeff, HipMF and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Attempt number 6382: Started torquing intake cam. Stripped a thread. (Serenity now!) Didn't rage. Repaired stripped thread. Started torquing cam again and.... 1 cam successfully torqued!!!! Holy crap!!!!!!!!!! How about the other one........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 I have a few threads to repair on that one still but I hope to get some more time on it tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Earl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=42 Just learned about the Siemens MS41 Tuning in a E28 swap thread, what is your plan for engine management this time? B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 OBD1 413 red label with a Sssquid Tuning chip for now. I MIGHT try a Miller WAR chip but now that there is a plug and play E36 megasquirt ECU I could certainly see myself getting one of those and some euro S50 throttles Jeff, YoungCR and Jdesign 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 You will have to excuse me, but if and when you start this thing the first time and the cams get scored and seize, I will weep and laugh at the same time. Glad to see you are moving forward without a full on rage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2017 New woodruff keys installed on the crankshaft. Originally I went to grab some keys from ECS Tuning but its $65 for a bayg ('sconsin accent in full effect) of 50 keys. Nah. I got a few from McBastard and when they arrived I gave it ye olde redneck Brinell hardness test with a file and sure enough, unhardened, very soft actually. Soft keys will quickly make for sloppy keyways which cause higher impact loads on the keys than normal which causes them to shear and jump timing and lose oil pressure and the end the end the end. Dont use un-hardened keys for a critical (timing/high torque) application! Front timing cover installed with BMW gaskets and black RTV. Hardware torqued to 10 nootonmeaters. Front main seal installed. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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