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This isn't an e36 M3 build thread: Build Thread


StriggityStrack

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Hey everyone,

My name is Joe and some of you might know that I purchased a 1998 e36 M3 a few months ago. So far it turned out to be a good purchase but the car has it's flaws. Last fall I sheared the front carrier bolt on my differential (having too much fun) which messed a lot of stuff up so I decided to rebuild the rear end. The way I looked at was A.) I could have a moderately clean looking show car or B.) I could have a good looking (entry level) race car. I have always wanted to get into racing and with an M3 in the garage I just couldn't resist. So my plans are to start out with Autocross and keep my modifications limited to suspension so that I don't get thrown into a class out of my league. My car has been in the garage all winter but it wasn't until a few weeks ago that I decided to get my ass in gear. So far this is what I have done...

The whole rear end is out

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I made a bushing extractor tool with 3" pipe and the threaded rod lasted just long enough to get all the bushings out. It worked better than I expected. Some didn't pull the metal sleeve out with the bushing but nothing a cheap hack saw couldn't fix. 

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I have all the parts ready to get media blasted and powder coated but I am still looking for the best place to get that done. 

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I purchased a full set of AKG 75D's for the subframe, RTAB's and the differential. I got my set of Rogue Engineering lower control arms in the mail today. I also have a set of BC coilovers coming with a custom spring rate of 12K front and 10K rear so between this, the (pretty much solid) bushings, and the control arms metal rod ends, comfort is out the window. 

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Dont mind the mess...

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when I extracted the sheared diff bolt today I noticed that the output seal seemed to be leaking a little. I decided to open her up and I am glad I did. Turns out the LSD carrier housing cover was cracked in two places. I have no clue how this had happened. I might as well throw some new clutch plates in while I am in there. 

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These pieced fell out when I pulled out the guts and it seems like they have been in there awhile due to the amount of wear on the edges. I am supersized that it didn't get jammed in the LSD housing or mess up the ring and pinion.

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I skimmed over a lot here so if you have any questions be sure to ask someone else... or at least buy me a beer first. 

I have a lot more planned for the rebuild and I will share more when the parts arrive.

 

Joe

 

 

 

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Always liked these and the idea of one in my garage.

Just an FYI. If the game plan is autocross be sure to read the different car class prep rules for the organization you will be running with. Some of the suspension mods you have planned for example will bump you into classes where you might not want to be if you want to be competitive.

If you're thinking about eventually w2w racing, again think about what race series you'll be in and the class and other prep rules. Otherwise money wasted.

But if you're just looking to have fun at autocross or at track days / DE schools just prep the car however you want and have at it.

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I'll always love the e36 and Estoril has got to be one of my top 3 favorite blues!  This will be a fun car!  Like said above, take a fine tooth comb to some reg's for whatever class you end up running in if you want to be competitive.  I believe the suspension mods you've made already move you up a few classes from Street.

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1 hour ago, Boris3 said:

Always liked these and the idea of one in my garage.

Just an FYI. If the game plan is autocross be sure to read the different car class prep rules for the organization you will be running with. Some of the suspension mods you have planned for example will bump you into classes where you might not want to be if you want to be competitive.

If you're thinking about eventually w2w racing, again think about what race series you'll be in and the class and other prep rules. Otherwise money wasted.

But if you're just looking to have fun at autocross or at track days / DE schools just prep the car however you want and have at it.

 

26 minutes ago, patsbimmer1 said:

I'll always love the e36 and Estoril has got to be one of my top 3 favorite blues!  This will be a fun car!  Like said above, take a fine tooth comb to some reg's for whatever class you end up running in if you want to be competitive.  I believe the suspension mods you've made already move you up a few classes from Street.

I have been reading through the rules and this is correct. The street class does not allow any other suspension bushing material other than OEM, any aftermarket control arms, and you need to run OEM spec springs... I will be thrown in to the Street Touring class. I am worried about one thing though. "The amount of metal in a replacement bushing may not be increased relative to the amount of metal found in a standard bushing for the particular application. Solid metal bushings are specifically prohibited."  I specifically went with 75D bushings because they are close in hardness as delrin and they are still a polymer which excludes them from the solid mount category but I am worried because I never checked the amount of metal between the AKG and the OEM. I would like to be competitive but If I get blown out of the water the first few years I am not going to cry about it. 

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28 minutes ago, wasnt m3 said:

Are you planning on running the stock gear ratio? Now might be a good time to consider a different diff altogether.

I wasn't planning on changing the final drive ratio but since you mentioned it I took a look at the regulations for the Street Touring class.. " K. Limited Slip Differentials STS, STF: No limited slip differentials are permitted except for factory standard viscous coupler type units." Well shit... 

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These rules are confusing. So I found the classification sheet and I have no clue what any of this means because there is no legend. This says that my car is STU eligible (I have no clue what that means) but now that I look at the rules it has this exception " STX, STU, STR: Only standard (as defined in Section 12) limited slip differentials (LSD) are allowed on AWD vehicles. For AWD vehicles that did not come with any type of limited slip differential (including center differential or transfer case), a single aftermarket mechanical LSD may be added. 2WD vehicles may use any mechanical LSD unit". 56fe85fa83e33_4-1-20169-29-06AM.thumb.jp

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26 minutes ago, JosephStrackbein said:

I don't know about the auto. I have a manual. I may still be confused about the what type of LSD I have. I figured it wasn't a viscous LSD because it has clutch packs. 

Sorry, my mistake.  They are mechanical LSD's.  I am pretty sure between the auto and manual they are interchangeable.

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Yikes, I hope my diff doesn't look like that, now I'm going to worry... 

I'd think about reinforcing the RTAB pockets if you are planning on running super stiff RTAB bushings, the extra stresses on the mounts can cause the bungs to pull out, it's rare but can happen. AKG makes a nice weld-in reinforcement plate for about 30 bucks for the pair and is good insurance while you're in there.

 

Nice car by the way! I just realized there are two Joe's with E36 M3's on here haha

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Yikes, I hope my diff doesn't look like that, now I'm going to worry... 

I'd think about reinforcing the RTAB pockets if you are planning on running super stiff RTAB bushings, the extra stresses on the mounts can cause the bungs to pull out, it's rare but can happen. AKG makes a nice weld-in reinforcement plate for about 30 bucks for the pair and is good insurance while you're in there.

 

Nice car by the way! I just realized there are two Joe's with E36 M3's on here haha

I was actually debating on buying them and had them in my shopping cart until I last minute pulled them out. I don't have a welder in my garage and the cars not going anywhere until I get everything back together.

And thanks man.

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2 hours ago, JosephStrackbein said:

You are completely right. I guess I just had a freak out moment there. lol. 

Get out there and have fun. Autox is a high intensity 10/10ths car rush for roughly 40-60 seconds a run depending on the course layout and your skills, and then hanging out with car folks for a while until your next fix. If you decide that you really want to get serious then you can buy/build for a particular class. The SCCA events at Miller Park in Milwaukee are a great opportunity to watch and meet a number of national level class winners, and get a sense of how good some folks really are at this. Get rides if you can, if the event does fun runs later in the day.

DE events, open track days, and the jump to w2w ramp up the costs in prep and consumables and take the addiction to a different level. You're not running at 10/10ths since the speeds and consequences of mistakes are much higher and you're dealing with other folks on track. Different rush, all good.         

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24 minutes ago, Boris3 said:

Get out there and have fun. Autox is a high intensity 10/10ths car rush for roughly 40-60 seconds a run depending on the course layout and your skills, and then hanging out with car folks for a while until your next fix. If you decide that you really want to get serious then you can buy/build for a particular class. The SCCA events at Miller Park in Milwaukee are a great opportunity to watch and meet a number of national level class winners, and get a sense of how good some folks really are at this. Get rides if you can, if the event does fun runs later in the day.

DE events, open track days, and the jump to w2w ramp up the costs in prep and consumables and take the addiction to a different level. You're not running at 10/10ths since the speeds and consequences of mistakes are much higher and you're dealing with other folks on track. Different rush, all good.         

Bingo. This is my plan. Go to an auto-x or two and just have fun.

I know the mods I've done probably put me in a class way above my skill level. Oh well, I'll still have a blast.

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