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Alpine e30 progress/build thread


m42b32

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Just now, Earl said:

Going through and doing all of the seals on an m42 does take long as long as you aren't repainting absolutely everything...lol

I probably won't be going as in depth as you have haha. Just planning to fix some leaks and repaint a lot of the major stuff so it looks nicer. I'm mostly planning to work on the engine bay, since it'll be easier to pull the wiper linkage and fix the cowl damage, run new brake lines to delete the ABS pump, and generally clean up the whole thing since it's pretty nasty. 

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2 minutes ago, jc43089 said:

Be careful, my car is a shell because it made sense to "do it all at once"... 

That's definitely a concern of mine, but I'm ok with this turning into a longer term project. I've been planning this car in my head for a number of years and over the last few months decided that now is as good a time as ever to get started on it.

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Be careful, my car is a shell because it made sense to "do it all at once"... 

That's definitely a concern of mine, but I'm ok with this turning into a longer term project. I've been planning this car in my head for a number of years and over the last few months decided that now is as good a time as ever to get started on it.

It's a good feeling when you get shit squared away and have the time to do what you want to your "fun" car

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3 minutes ago, straight6pwr said:

but an e30 stuck in a garage is an e30 not being driven! its needs to be a balance, for sure.

For the last year the car has been a wrecked e30 which is definitely worse than an in-progress e30! I'm hoping to have it back on the road, at least for a little while, next summer. The initial plan was have it ready the minute the snow melts but I think, with pulling the engine, I'll say mid to late summer is a goal. 

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When I re did mine over the last two winters I missed a few of the larger events I really wanted to go. I convinced myself that doing it right the first time would be worth it. When the stars aligned and I got to autox at road America on good tires it all made sense. That one event was worth it, the car felt awesome. Especially knowing you had done it all yourself. Even if it's going to be a daily cruiser or weekend warrior. Just knowing that you did it right the first time is great

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been making some minor progress, worked on Wednesday but cut it short because it was 15 degrees in the garage...Got the rear section of the exhaust out (crappy muffler was welded to the hangers, what a PITA to get off) popped out the o2 sensor, about to drop the mid-section when I decided I liked not having hypothermia.

Also started tearing down the front struts to clean and repaint

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They already have VAC sway bar mount reinforcments welded on, and on closer inspection I found a nice surprise:

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I didn't notice them initially because they are a bit crusty and blend in really well, but there are a pair of fixed camber plates attached to the strut mounts that I had no idea were there. I love little surprises like these. They seem pretty simple to swap in and out, so it will be interesting to see what they do to the handling once the car is back on the road. 

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1 hour ago, straight6pwr said:

its going be hard to remove those hex key bolts from the rust!

That was my thoughts at first too, but if you look closely they are actually welded to the plate around the edges. The strut tops had the original studs punched out and then the camber plate installs through the resulting holes. There are some rusty nyloc nuts on the back that I can hopefully get off without too much trouble. Worst case scenario, I snap a screw and carry out the last two lines of Kaiser's post... 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Continued work on removing the old core support, got the two upper and one lower connection points cut out and roughly cleaned up:

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Also started dropping the front suspension, got the front struts removed after work today. I'll will be swapping the billies and vogtlands over to the M3 strut housings once I get them all cleaned up. Don't worry about the stress on those rubber brake lines, they're being replaced and I just wanted them out of the way. 

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I installed a momo hub and a bolt pattern adapter from Crowder's (Highly recommended for all your steering wheel adapter and spacer needs, its well made and the black textured finish hides it nicely since I didn't want shiny aluminum visible) in preparation for a new wheel that should be arriving next week. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got all the AC parts removed up to the connections that pass through the fire wall, exhaust is out up to the header, got the front subframe out:

31469880564_5a5c76552a_b.jpg

Started cleaning it up (its nasty) and preparing to weld in sway bar and engine mount reinforcement plates. 

 

Then went and pulled the steering rack:

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I'll be swapping to either a standard e36 rack (linear 3.4 lock to lock) and deleting the power steering, or swapping in an e46 zhp rack (linear 3.0 lock to lock) and keeping power steering. Haven't decided which yet though. 

 

Disassembled the old struts to swap everything over, just need to paint the new housings and I'll be ready to start bolting things back together in the front. 

 

I also worked out a way to disassemble brake calipers easily without the use of an air compressor and turning your piston into a missile. 

I compressed the pistons as far as they would go to remove as much fluid as possible, this way you minimize any spray when the piston pops out.

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I ordered an M10x1.0 (brake line thread pitch) to 1/8 NPT adapter and a 1/8 npt schrader air tank valve on ebay. This threads into the caliper housing (with the bleed screw installed) and allows you to connect a hand bike pump. 

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It only took a single pump to push the piston all the way out and it came free with a light pop, no missile or fluid spray. 

 

I'm glad I decided to rebuild these instead of just cleaning them up, they were full of muck, fortunately no rust on anything internally though:

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Things are progressing nicely!

 

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