Jdesign Posted October 30, 2018 Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 Glad you're okay, but that still sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 6 minutes ago, Jdesign said: Glad you're okay, but that still sucks. it does. The worst part is I was at the roundabout to go home, and I thought, one more loop, then I thought, I haven't seen any deer and we should probably call it quits, ehhhh we'll be fine! Then bam. Hood will be easy to bend back and I'm ordering some touch up paint. The fender will most likely need to be replaced. But once it's off, I might see if I can bend it back in place to look respectable. Fortunately, the car has a fair amount of blemishes and is by no means perfect, so a couple other little oopsies won't stand out. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted October 30, 2018 Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 Drivers are so nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted October 30, 2018 Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 glad you and the car are OK! did you have police do a composite sketch so we can find that buckhead? m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 I jumped out of the car, tracked him down, and had a stern word with him. He said he was sorry and wouldn't do it again. After driving it briefly this fall. The next plans are to ditch the poly engine and trans mounts and replace them with e21 engine mounts and stock transmission mounts (I have some new ones that I didn't put in). The Condor solid engine mounts and poly transmission mounts are too much. Also add a provent oil separator to the factory breather system. Found some oil in the throttle body. And of course, fix deer stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Bummer but at least it wasn’t the whole front clip! Also glad you got to drive this some before the end of the season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HipMF Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 On 10/16/2018 at 11:14 AM, gilber33 said: ...one thing has crept up that I've noticed. Everyone once in a while when I'm driving, it is usually just cruising along, the car seems to cut out for half a second and jolts. It feels almost as if the throttle body snapped shut and then opened back up. Then the car keeps going as if nothing happened. The cluster doesn't change, the needles don't zero out, no lights come on. I've read that the main relay and ECU can eventually start going bad and cause little blips like this. I would assume if the main relay was bad, there would be a loss of electrical power, not just "mechanical" power. My e34 had similar symptoms. Eventually started getting worse. Finally stopped working long enough for me to do some troubleshooting (a nice way of saying it died and left me on the side of the road...). After trying a couple other things with no success, I jumpered the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. After that, I changed out both the fuel pump and main relay, but it still kept happening. I never actually fixed it, but the problem was assumed to be the ECU at that point. I just wired in a switch to bypass the fuel pump relay because the car was a POS and it was funny. I daily drove it for months after that and never had any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Check your ECU number and let me know, I've got a spare ECU for an M20 laying about as well. ^HipMF did some amusing fixes for that issue and it was interesting to see the failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Does the cutout happen when you hit small bumps/road imperfections? If so maybe something is a little loose and gets jostled. If you haven't done so already make sure your battery connections are tight, also the connections to the power block under the hood. Are the three relays new and do they fit tightly in the carrier (main, fuel, 02), track folks often ziptie them down into the carrier to keep them from moving. Could be the electrical disruption is so slight that it doesn't show up in the cluster or by the time you look it's already passed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 3 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said: Check your ECU number and let me know, I've got a spare ECU for an M20 laying about as well. ^HipMF did some amusing fixes for that issue and it was interesting to see the failure. Will do! I've read that as a possible cause. I'll message you that info and maybe if it's the same, we can group it with the carpets. 3 hours ago, Boris3 said: Does the cutout happen when you hit small bumps/road imperfections? If so maybe something is a little loose and gets jostled. If you haven't done so already make sure your battery connections are tight, also the connections to the power block under the hood. Are the three relays new and do they fit tightly in the carrier (main, fuel, 02), track folks often ziptie them down into the carrier to keep them from moving. Could be the electrical disruption is so slight that it doesn't show up in the cluster or by the time you look it's already passed. No, road imperfections make no difference. This has happened wot in 1st gear and it has happened while cruising in 5th on a smooth road. There is zero consistency to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Interesting and frustrating. Your R3v thread mentions PO had the same issue? Just a random list of a few more things: Plugs and wires tight, no oil in tps plug connector, any issue with air flow meter (try swapping), stomp test or code reader to see if any stored fault codes since you noted cel flashed, fuel related (does fuel level matter, something that is intermittently affecting flow: fuel pump wiring, crap in tank clogging screen, water in tank, fuel pump, etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 32 minutes ago, Boris3 said: Interesting and frustrating. Your R3v thread mentions PO had the same issue? Just a random list of a few more things: Plugs and wires tight, no oil in tps plug connector, any issue with air flow meter (try swapping), stomp test or code reader to see if any stored fault codes since you noted cel flashed, fuel related (does fuel level matter, something that is intermittently affecting flow: fuel pump wiring, crap in tank clogging screen, water in tank, fuel pump, etc) Yeah, the PO said he experienced it too every once in a while. New plug wire and they are all tight, spark plugs were torqued down to their recommended torque settings. Stomp test was not useful because the ECU doesn't store codes; only active codes. Crank position sensor bracket being out of alignment might explain this. I replaced the crank sensor and it still happened, so if it was a hardware issue, and not sensor issue it would make sense. It really doesn't feel fuel related, but I may replace the ignition coil and fuel pump this winter just for good measure since they're both original. Unfortunately I parked the car for the winter to address some things, so I'll just be refreshing some of the parts and then come Spring, we'll test it again! lol Boris3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Switching gears here: To those with e30s who drive theirs pretty frequently with the occasional spirited driving session and maybe some autocross: what engine and transmission mounts do you have? I currently have the condor solid engine mounts and poly 80a transmission mounts and the vibrations/noise they transmit is too much for what I want the car to be - a comfortable spirited daily driver for the summer with an occasional autocross. I would like to go back to stock engine & transmission mounts but hoping to get some input on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 New DME and Fuel Pump relays are never a bad idea. I kept spares with me at all times as a cheap easy thing to keep me going if i ever found myself dead on the roadside. They have been known to cause similar issues. The other item is the injection harness corrosion and crank sensor alignment. I had powdercoated my bracket along with all my other engine parts and that thin film of plastic was enough to cause the car to cut out at 4500rpm. new uncoated bracket fixed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 As for transmission mounts. use E21 mounts with reinforcement cups. Anything stiffer than original rubber becomes a NVH issue. Condor UHMW/poly Engine mounts are just fine in the NVH department. Now please excuse me while I go back into hibernation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 3 minutes ago, snap said: New DME and Fuel Pump relays are never a bad idea. I kept spares with me at all times as a cheap easy thing to keep me going if i ever found myself dead on the roadside. They have been known to cause similar issues. The other item is the injection harness corrosion and crank sensor alignment. I had powdercoated my bracket along with all my other engine parts and that thin film of plastic was enough to cause the car to cut out at 4500rpm. new uncoated bracket fixed it That's right. The relays were another thing I read to replace. I will replace those as well. I had also powdercoated my CPS bracket, it might have made the issue worse, but I believe the bracket was still a little messed up before powder coating. I am ordering a new bracket. 2 minutes ago, snap said: As for transmission mounts. use E21 mounts with reinforcement cups. Anything stiffer than original rubber becomes a NVH issue. Condor UHMW/poly Engine mounts are just fine in the NVH department. Now please excuse me while I go back into hibernation The e21 transmission mounts and e24 engine mounts appear to be the go-to HD stock engine mount substitute. Probably best to go that route. Goodnight. B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 When the 1990 was still streetable I had the e21 transmission mounts (w/o cups) and the BW engine mounts (probably same as the e24 in terms of hardness) https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Engine-Mounts/Heavy-Duty-E30-325-Engine-Mount-Set_2.html If you go with the e21/e24 combo watch for Garagistic's Black Friday sale coming up later this month, here's the current listing but they usually have some good BF deals. If you sign up with them you get early notification of deals https://store.garagistic.com/E30-hd-mounts-23711175424-11811132322 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 26 minutes ago, gilber33 said: To those with e30s who drive theirs pretty frequently with the occasional spirited driving session and maybe some autocross: what engine and transmission mounts do you have? I think you're on the wrong forum for this question..... gilber33, AsparagusMike, B C and 1 other 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 3 minutes ago, Boris3 said: When the 1990 was still streetable I had the e21 transmission mounts (w/o cups) and the BW engine mounts (probably same as the e24 in terms of hardness) https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Engine-Mounts/Heavy-Duty-E30-325-Engine-Mount-Set_2.html If you go with the e21/e24 combo watch for Garagistic's Black Friday sale coming up later this month, here's the current listing but they usually have some good BF deals. If you sign up with them you get early notification of deals https://store.garagistic.com/E30-hd-mounts-23711175424-11811132322 Garagistic does offer a ton of sales, so that's a good idea. I saw their kit and was going to get that, but found the same mounts (searching part numbers) on RM European for $8ea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 2 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said: I think you're on the wrong forum for this question..... lol. I have noticed that many of the cars here are on jack stands. I should rephrase that question: To those who have driven their car at some point while in their ownership... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 4 hours ago, gilber33 said: To those who have driven their car at some point while in their ownership... Still wrong forum. gilber33 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 25 minutes ago, SteelBlue said: Still wrong forum. To those who have installed engine mounts: did the poly engine mounts or rubber engine mounts feel better in your hands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Roloff Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 8 hours ago, gilber33 said: To those who have installed engine mounts: did the poly engine mounts or rubber engine mounts feel better in your hands? Just my two cents, but for a street car I’d go for the HD OEM stuff if I were you. Usually not very expensive, it should last a long time, it’ll make the car more pleasant to drive, and you really don’t have to worry about fitment or quality like with some aftermarket stuff. Obviously, if it’s gonna see track time that doesn’t apply and I’m of absolutely no help, but for what it’s worth I’ve been nothing but pleased with every OEM bushing I’ve put onto my car (except for rear shock mounts, the stockers suck wiener). Other people will be better sources for info for autox stuff, but this is my recommendation for a car capable of spirited driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 I ordered the e21 and e24 mounts. I think they'll do the job. I would like to get into some autocross next year, but I'm guessing it will be fine. I intend to almost daily this next summer, so I would like it to be as comfortable and quiet as it can be while still being great for a spirited cruise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted November 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2018 Good night sweet prince. Put it up on jack stands for the winter to address everything. Also trying to figure out the culprit for the p0171/4 code on the e46. Not the disa valve! Every time I look at these pictures I find the Volvo flag ironic. m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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