Earl Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 I have a slide hammer, front wheel drive bearing mandrel set, and large snap ring pliers set all from Harbor Freight that work great for doing =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HipMF Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Wheel bearing party this weekend? I'll ordee one for the e34. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Arbor press ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 21 hours ago, KaiserRolls said: Arbor press ftw If you pull the trailing arms out, sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 21 hours ago, HipMF said: Wheel bearing party this weekend? I'll order one for the e34. I'm booked this weekend unfortunately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 I swapped the FPR on the car in attempt to help the hot start, as a lot of people online said that was their issue. It did not fix mine. I have a CEL for the coolant temp sensor, but the sensor is clearly new, and there is a receipt for it in the car. I don't know if I double checked the number, but it is blue like it should be. I have a feeling the CLT sensor is the problem, and I will check the sensor itself and then ensure that the wiring from the plug to the ecu is good. If I can fix the hot start issue I would feel much more confident in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Arbor press ftw If you pull the trailing arms out, sure. Two bolts ya chump!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 6 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said: Two bolts ya chump!!! In addition to the cv (moot point) The brake lines, abs sensor, parking brake cable, shock, spring, and sway bar end link. Not to mention the difficulty of doing the bolts on the passenger side (fuel filler neck) In short, I did my last one in car. Earl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 The tools I listed are the way to go=) It would take you a half hour to do each side if you're moving at a good pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Fab up a puller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 1 hour ago, GunMetalGrey said: I swapped the FPR on the car in attempt to help the hot start, as a lot of people online said that was their issue. It did not fix mine. I have a CEL for the coolant temp sensor, but the sensor is clearly new, and there is a receipt for it in the car. I don't know if I double checked the number, but it is blue like it should be. I have a feeling the CLT sensor is the problem, and I will check the sensor itself and then ensure that the wiring from the plug to the ecu is good. If I can fix the hot start issue I would feel much more confident in the car. I had an e30 that had an intermittent problem with the temp sensor for the ecu. It would surge at idle when it warmed up and sometimes wouldn't start, it was the corrosion in the plug. I cleaned up the connection and it was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 7 minutes ago, jc43089 said: I had an e30 that had an intermittent problem with the temp sensor for the ecu. It would surge at idle when it warmed up and sometimes wouldn't start, it was the corrosion in the plug. I cleaned up the connection and it was fine. I think I half assed tried this earlier but couldn't quickly find anything to clean the contacts with. What did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 I think I used a pin or needle to scrape inside the female connector and then once I knew it worked I put some vaseline on the contacts with a Q tip to prevent future corrosion. A tiny pin file would probably be good if you could find a small enough one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 CLT issue fixed. Started by cleaning the contacts, then pulled the ecu connector and checked for continuity between the connector for the ecu and the sensor connector. Nada. Broken wires, b but where? Grabbed a spare harness (thanks @HipMF for hoarding m42 parts) and doubled checked my test method on a different harness and confirmed that the one in my car didn't have the cotton-nuity. Started pulling pieces off to gain access to the loom box under the intake and found that under the extremely brittle wire covering was a broken sensor wire, and one just barely hanging on. Patched those up and started it. CEL is gone! Car idled better than ever, and sadly there was another car in the way so I was unable to take it out to get it to temp and check the hot start issue. Though I doubt that still exists. Progress. KaiserRolls and Jdesign 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Excellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Picked up a little treat yesterday. I am not actually sure what car they will end up on though lol. The initial intent was for this, but I can adapt them to the perfect offset to run some good tires on the m52 car. 4 fronts, 2 rears. I can run a staggered set or a square set. KaiserRolls 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Glad you scooped these up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Took the door panel off the drivers side to replace a broken door handle yesterday. It appears that at some point when a previous owner removed the drivers door lock they decided they didn't have enough room to access it so instead they just took a grinder to the door. Why? Hot start issue is gone, which means we are throwing this thing into daily use even though I am still slightly hesitant of that! New front control arms, control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies, tie rod boots, and strut tops were ordered yesterday to fix up the front bushings and ball joints. They feel okay but the ball joints are quite worn so I may as well knock it all out at once! Now to tackle the blower motor. Only works on 4 and sounds bad, which usually means that one of the covers is hitting the blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 i've changed a latch mechanism in an e30 sedan door. i wanted very badly to cut holes in the door and/or kill myself, so I can see where the PO was coming from. m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 1 hour ago, GunMetalGrey said: Now to tackle the blower motor. Only works on 4 and sounds bad, which usually means that one of the covers is hitting the blades. If it only works on 4, chances are its the blower motor resistor, as 4 is the only speed that bypasses the resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 12 minutes ago, m42b32 said: If it only works on 4, chances are its the blower motor resistor, as 4 is the only speed that bypasses the resistor. Agreed, though due to the noise it makes I need to do further investigation. m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 The fan noise could be a couple things: some debris got into the housing, the metal clip holding the motor in place came loose so the motor isn't seated properly, or the plastic fan blades/ hamster cages have partially disintegrated with age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted January 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 I haven't seen the motor clip coming loose before. The last one I did the plastic had warped enough that it was sitting against the fan blades. That was a nice easy fix! Just transferred the title, and picked up plates for this. Daily duty may start tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Good deal! Not sure if it was a track concrete gator issue or the earlier wall tag, but when I opened up the housing on the track car the metal clip holding the blower motor was still in place but the motor itself had been slightly knocked out of the normal housing seat position and was rotated about 1/4" backwards towards the firewall. One more reason to keep yours a daily driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 I look forward to replacing the front suspension and tie rods on this. Driving home last night on the highway with wind, grooved road, snow tires, and worn ball joints was quite a bit of work! Trying to slide in this in the snow is different. It lacks the power that I prefer, but lift off over-steers quite well. I could certainly do without the beehive power plant! It's been doing me well though, and is certainly more enjoyable (even in mediocre condition) to drive than the Mazda! Earl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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