Doorman Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Earl My 325e has that same selector rod joint.I couldn't get it off under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Scrubbed the trans a bit more last night. I might go over it one more time because I am still not happy with some spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 So pretty, me likey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 Picked up the flywheel yesterday after work=) Don't mind the stain on the friction surface. It happened when the flywheel was cleaned after being resurfaced. You cannot feel it on the surface so it won't harm anything. I also got some parts back from powdercoat. Bassboy3313 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 First box of transmission refresh parts came=) I will need to sand on the selector rod joint just like the shift lever because BMW released a new design with a wider bushing to eliminate the little yellow washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I assume the newest BMWs use the new part, its crazy that it is the same part for 20+ years. The washers were a pain to get in there sometimes. Sent from my potato phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I was trying to find a joint from the previous revision and everyone had gone to the new ones=/ haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I like that brass pivot pin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Order one hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I'll order one if you do john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Yes! Where is the blue light special? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Ireland Engineering seemed to have the best price I found =) DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Finally motivated myself to get something done yesterday. I wasn't liking how the trans was looking with how clean I could get it so I decided to paint it with high temp flat aluminum paint. I got everything as clean as I could and masked everything off. I then sprayed two coats of paint after waiting about 15-20 minutes in between the coats. Turned out pretty decent=) I will paint the detent spring plate when I remove it to go the springs and I will clean up the output flange as well. Now I just need to swap out the seals and springs and it should be good as new. Bassboy3313 and jc43089 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 More trans progress. Removed the input shaft seal I was able to pop a hole in it with a pick, thread a wood screw into it, and use a slide hammer to pull it right out. I wrapped the splines of the input shaft in electrical tape to prevent damaging the seal when I reinstalled it. I tapped it in with a long brass drift and it seated nice and straight I also installed the pivot pin as you can see. I cleaned up and reinstalled the throwout bearing guide tube after the new seal was in. I really wish I could get it cleaner in the bellhousing but I would be basically sanding off all of the corrosion haha After that I removed the selector shaft seal That little guy is tricky. Mine happened to be pressed in farther than they should be. You have to be really careful not to scratch the shaft or outer bore in the case. I was able to get a pick in between the shaft and seal and then lever it out slowly. After that I installed my selector rod joint I was able to sand it to fit in my DSSR nice and tight as well. The spot you see at the end of the groove is on both sides. Must be something during the plating process since these have a very light bronzish colored plating. That is currently where I am at. The last things to do are the output shaft seal and the detent springs. My detent springs are in the mail and I need to source the proper 30mm socket to remove the output shaft flange. It needs to be deep but have a thin wall. I have heard you just need to grind down a normal 30mm socket. The seal should be simple if I remove it just like the input shaft seal. REKIII and DrLeadFoot 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Isn't there some special way to torque down the output shaft seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 I have not heard anything. Tap it in straight, use the proper thread sealant, and torque on the flange nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I ground a socket to fit the output flange, make sure you torque it properly. I didn't do it properly and the back of my transmission shat out while my wife was driving with her mom on the morning of her sisters wedding. It was pretty cool. Sent from my potato phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Haha will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I ground a socket to fit the output flange, make sure you torque it properly. I didn't do it properly and the back of my transmission shat out while my wife was driving with her mom on the morning of her sisters wedding. It was pretty cool. Sent from my potato phone ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doorman Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 ?Are you inferring that is his mom or wife!?Tsk tsk tsk......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Ground down 30mm sockets are what a couple of the techs at concours use. I even broke one of them when I did the driveshaft upgrade on the eta :/ having a strong impact is probably required too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Started on the output shaft seal last night. I had to grind down a socket to fit but got the nut off with an impact fairly easy after that. The flange pulled right off without needing a puller. I then used a slide hammer with a hook attachment at the end to pull the seal out. I then lubricated the new seal and started it in the bore with my hands. I used a brass drift and drove it in about 3mm from flush (the thickness of two pennies) At this point I put the flange back onto the output shaft and tightened the nut, seating the seal the rest of the way. The next step is to torque the output flange nut in two stages. First torque it to 140ft/lbs, then remove the nut, add loctite (Bentley specifies 242 but I will be using 271), and torque the nut to 89 ft/lbs. I could not find any way to hold the flange to 140ft/lbs at home. I grenaded a screwdriver in a failed attempt. I brought the trans into work today so that I can take a piece of angle iron and bolt it to the flange. This way I can clamp that in a vice and it should be easier. The only thing I am afraid of now is the ground down socket breaking. Hopefully it holds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Good news, my method at work worked=) The nut is now torqued properly. Now I just need to do the detent springs tonight and I am finished with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Replaced the detent springs yesterday evening. I freshened up the holding plate and installed new bolts too (yes they're stainless=P) What I started with The springs looked a hair compressed more than the new springs. By hand the rates didn't feel much different. There really was nothing to take a picture of for the new springs, so here it is all done=) Now onto find what to refresh next=) I have an e34 steering coupler on the way and more parts from Germany=P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 E34 steering joint arrived =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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