KaiserRolls Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Bolt on a 24v swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Bolt on a 24v swap Which one do I pick? Rowleym, jc43089, KaiserRolls and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 "Bolt-On" ... Not ... "Swap" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Your subframe is lowered and your diff is lowered quite a bit. That is bad news bears for your U joints and driveline angle. Even the lowered subframe is not greatIt's not a CV joint so it will throw some serious vibes if it is outside of its allowable range. I still have the back half of a good shaft if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Your subframe is lowered and your diff is lowered quite a bit. That is bad news bears for your U joints and driveline angle. Even the lowered subframe is not greatIt's not a CV joint so it will throw some serious vibes if it is outside of its allowable range. I still have the back half of a good shaft if you need it.I think the current plan is to swap the CSB and Giubo onto the original driveshaft - and bring it in to be balanced. If it balances out good it'll go back in... If not - I'll have to address then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 If your U joints are shot you will still get some clunking back there, the joints shouldn't have any play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 No play and there shouldn't be a lot 'sticky' spots when you move the joint around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Once removed - I couldn't find any "slop" in the u-joint at all. Moved freely and didn't have sticky spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 That's a good sign Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Didn't get as much done this morning as I had hoped - but overall got stuff done! New rear bearings are in, rear axles are in - gonna eat some lunch then reassemble rear brakes and move to radiator swap I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Give er hell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Early Fathers Day gift from my wife (she's the best!): DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Im so happy for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Dat m70 manifold though YoungCR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Dat m70 manifold thoughYOU SEE NOTHING!!!Not sure I'll be using that - might have a slight change of plans in mind for the intake manifold.... We'll see how the summer pans out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Shift linkage is rebuilt and back in.... And it was a monumental PITA. Thankfully it was worth the headache because the shifter feels fantastic.Electric fan is mounted and radiator mounting is done. Gotta figure out fan wiring and figure out what I'm gonna do for an upper rad hose.Hopefully tonight I can yank those rear diff spacers and remove the no longer needed accessory crank pulley. I'm assuming I should get shorter bolts to replace the existing ones - or add washers?!? Will have to figure out tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 YOU SEE NOTHING!!!Not sure I'll be using that - might have a slight change of plans in mind for the intake manifold.... We'll see how the summer pans out.Budget = ITB's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Budget = ITB'sI can neither confirm nor deny anything. YoungCR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Much excite! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 I retract my previous statements - I did not install those diff spacers when I put the subframe bushing in (josh and I both thought we saw them up there - but went to pull them out last night and realized they weren't in there after all!)Driveshaft is back in now, and got front studs in.... Just gotta get exhaust up, figure out elec fan wiring, torque axle nuts all around, and get an upper rad hose sourced/spliced.Lots of detail work - but if things go smooth hopefully I'll be rolling tomorrow night?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 My "Holy crap..." Moment of the evening though was when I was getting out from under the car and noticed the rear subframe bolts didn't have as much thread showing as I remembered. Threw a socket on them to check tightness.... And got another 4-5 turns out of them both!!!They are now loctited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 It's truly pathetic how bad I am with wiring. Need to get an electric fan wired into car, and just can't wrap around how I am supposed to do this. Spent more then an hour looking at written directions - then the wiring in the car - and got nothing accomplished. So frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 Are you keeping the oe aux fan? If not it's super easy. Replace the fan switch on the passenger side of the radiator with an 80/88c one (stock is 91/99c) from a 318, its plug and play. The hook the large wires that go to the oe fan to your new one. Sent from my potato phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 Are you keeping the oe aux fan? If not it's super easy. Replace the fan switch on the passenger side of the radiator with an 80/88c one (stock is 91/99c) from a 318, its plug and play. The hook the large wires that go to the oe fan to your new one.Sent from my potato phoneI removed all the original A/C stuff including that electric fan in front. This is the write up I was following:This is for 88 cabrio (late model wiring) you may be slightly differentStock AC Fan wiring:Brown = GroundBlack (at the fan) or Black/Green (after fan connector) = low speed positive feedConnect your new electric fan Ground to the brown wire, if you cut off the connector connect the positive from your new electric fan to the Black/Green, if you still have the wiring after the connector use the Black.Thermo switch:Green/Black = power feed (must be connected)Black = Low speed relay feed (the one you want to connect to the new thermo switch)Black/Brown = High speed relay feed (do not connect)Since your stock themoswitch in the side of the radiator has 3 pins we need to figure out what one will trigger the low speed fan relay to supply power to the new electric fan. You need to put on some spade connectors and connect the Green/Balck to either of the two posts on the back of the new thermoswitch. Then connect the Black line with a spade to the other. Tape off the Black/Brown it is not needed anymore.The wiring is done in this fashion to allow the stock relays to control the new fan, also if you push the AC switch inside the cabin, you can force on the electric fan anytime you wantHere's what I gathered from this: -Cut off the original wiring that was connected to the elec aux fan (3-wire harness with a black, brown, and red wire that was "part of" the fan).-Connect the brown wire to my new electric fan ground.-Connect the black wire to my new electric fan power.-Cut the red wire off?!?After that I'm a lost. The original thermo switch has a 3-wire harness leading to it as described above, am I cutting wires going to that switch? If so - what am I connecting them to?!? It sounds like leave the black/green wire alone... So cut the other two wires and do what with them?If someone could dumb down the next steps to a kindergarten level id be eternally grateful. I didn't order a different thermo switch. My original radiator has one in it (obviously) and the radiator I got from Earl had his orginal one in it. I was planning to leave the orginal thermo switch that was in the radiator in it (since Earls car is a 318 I should be fine?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_love_cars Posted June 10, 2015 Report Share Posted June 10, 2015 wiring is my least favorite thing to work on in a car. Eventually I'll need to bite the bullet and wire up a JB4 and meth kit so I can spray, but definitely not looking forward to it. The above instructions make perfect sense to me, however, it doesn't sound like you have exactly the same parts/setup. Without a way to visual what's what, I can't be of much use. If I could see what wires run where and how they are connected to the sensors it would make more sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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