GunMetalGrey Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Oh no, it is not downhill. What do you have to get the bearings out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Oh no, it is not downhill. What do you have to get the bearings out?I was gonna use my whack-a-mole hammer... Then likely was gonna buy a slide hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Have fun Rear wheel bearing to this day was still my least favorite e30 job. I don't remember what trick I found to make it way easier.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 An air hammer is literally the only thing that would budge mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Hit up Harbor Freight tonight - picked up their biggest pair of snap ring pliers which look like they'll be perfect for the rear wheel bearings! Also a multi pack of the bitch clip style "hooks" which will hopefully help get the clip off easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Had a very productive night tonight... AC is all removed, all the power steering is deleted except 1 line, radiator is pulled.... Not too shabby for 3 hours work with the help of Josh.Hopefully can have another good day/night tomorrow on it!All the stuff not going back into the bay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Fun stuff. I got rid of PS tonight too. Used the condor plate. (Assuming that's what you used?) Took a whole 3 minutes (no engine in the car helps) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowleym Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Hey any of that AC stuff still work? Specifically the condenser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Hey any of that AC stuff still work? Specifically the condenser. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkCan't say for sure. PO thought it worked just had a freon leak somewhere in system. System was empty when I removed, everything is intact and in decent shape though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Rear bearings are out!Called the local AutoZone who assured me they had a bearing press kit to rent (had them check to make sure it had a bunch of round dies). Drive up there... It was a race driver kit (essentially round dies with a hammer attachment for hammering bearing races into place). Went to hardware store and bought a threaded rod and some washers/nuts and tried to make my own press.... And couldn't get enough pressure on the bearings. Finally bit the bullet and went to Harbor Freight and bought their kit ($96 after 20% off coupon) 5 minutes later they were out. DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Good news! It's all about the right (cheap) tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I broke my Craftsman impact in the process - cant remember the last time I abused an impact that bad. Drained and refilled my compressor like 3 times while beating on the bearings. Actually started to cross thread the big ass threaded rod in that kit in the process!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Was pressed for time tonight so didn't get a lot done - however I got my power steering delete plate from Condor installed and started mocking up fan mounts for the radiator. Still got a TON to do before Scooters:-Install new rear bearings and re-assemble rear end.-Finish dropping forward portion of exhaust and heat shields, then yank driveshaft.-Drop shift linkage and rebuild, install Giubo/CSB/driveshaft/exhaust-Install and wire in new radiator with electric fan-Pray all this work will fix my driveshaft vibration.Gonna be some busy nights, if anyone is local and wants to sling wrenches LMK. Garage is warm and beer is always cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Driveshaft is out, shifter assembly is out and torn apart being cleaned and rebuilt.... Tomorrow AM is gonna come EARLY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Driveshaft is out, shifter assembly is out and torn apart being cleaned and rebuilt.... Tomorrow AM is gonna come EARLY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 PowerTorque brand ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 What rebuild kit did you go with for the shifter?I wasn't really thinking when I ordered everything - I wanted to get the order in so parts could get shipping ASAP and should have done more research. I ended up going through and ordering all the original piece-parts to rebuild. Didn't do a short shifter or Delrin parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Alright - could use some advice on what to do. I've been thinking through this drivetrain vibration issue and wondering if I screwed something up:When I pulled the rear subframe, I did the weld-in camber and toe adjusters AND the Condor subframe risers. Upon installation of both realized.... You can't really do both; raising the subframe pushes the newly welded in toe and camber adjusters into the underside of the car. In a rush to finish the car and get it road worthy - I flipped the subframe bushing upside down and installed (essentially lowering the subframe slightly?).When you install the subframe bushings - they also send some spacers to mount between the subframe and diff to space the diff down (to compensate for raising the diff and changing your driveline angle). Those spacers essentially lower the diff as well.I'm thinking I should remove those spacers between the diff and subframe?!? I think I essentially lowered the subframe AND the diff.. Which should have dropped my driveline angle quite a bit off from stock orientation.I have no idea how much "play" there is in driveline angles to know if this is totally fine - or if my lowering the rear threw off the angle and caused my driveline vibration (or prematurely killed the rear u-joint of my driveshaft?)I don't recall exactly when the driveline vibrations started - but 90% sure the vibration wasn't noticeable when I reinstalled the subframe. I remember feeling the vibration right after I installed the condor motor and trans mounts. I'm assuming the newly firm mounted tyranny made the vibration more noticeable?!?Side note: I'm doing all this work because I had a nasty driveline vibration above 2.5k-3k RPMs - which is why I'm replacing the giubo and CSB. Just trying to cover all scenarios to ensure I can get this fixed and enjoy the car again ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I would take out those spacers since the subframe isn't raised. They might not be the whole issue but they are still throwing off the driveline angle from what I am thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I'd check the u joints to see if they move freely. Could the engine/trans mounts be stiff enough to cause you to feel more vibrations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I'm thinking that's exactly the issue Chris. The vibrations were there before - but ancient OEM motor and trans mounts didn't transfer the feeling into the car. Once I went solid mounts - all those vibrations come to light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowleym Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Ill trade you a set of regular subframe bushings for those riser bushings. made from uhmw as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Ill trade you a set of regular subframe bushings for those riser bushings. made from uhmw as well.I have zero intentions of dropping the subframe again soon unless something breaks and I need to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyhundley Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I decided last weekend I will be going with air next winter, roads are just too crappy to be low static.Wheel bearing time - and giubo/CSB time! CALLING DIBS ON THE CATUNED COILS!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 CALLING DIBS ON THE CATUNED COILS!!!Noted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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