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ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread


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You should try something less harsh like simple green, It's easier on your skin and gets stuff clean. I use it 50/50 with water in my parts cleaner. It's also significantly cheaper than cans of carb cleaner.

Normally I would - but the underside of things had a weird yellow "film" (hard to describe - thin layer of cracked yellow hue something) that did NOT want to come off. Used a putty knife to scrape it off, then needed carb cleaner and a scotchbrite pad to clean off. Whatever it was, it wasn't corrosive because it didnt etch the aliminium or steel.

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Nice work! This car is coming along quickly, can't wait to see it on the ground. Are you planning on bringing it to the e30 picnic?

Yup! Hoping to have it driving in 2 weeks (if I really haul ass and everything works out perfectly maybe next weekend.... But things never seem to go that way for me).

My first BMW, first GTG of the season, and first time showing off the car (other then this build thread - there's no pictures of this car/build anywhere. It's been "radio silence" on Instagram and Facebook for me - most people don't have any idea what I bought when I sold my mk3).

Looking forward to it!!!

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Normally I would - but the underside of things had a weird yellow "film" (hard to describe - thin layer of cracked yellow hue something) that did NOT want to come off. Used a putty knife to scrape it off, then needed carb cleaner and a scotchbrite pad to clean off. Whatever it was, it wasn't corrosive because it didnt etch the aluminum or steel.

 

Yea that is some kind of wax, I have found that in a few places on my car too, some seem to have more than others, my e36 had it on the tops of the strut towers but not much underneath.

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Not a bad day today. Got the trailing arm bushings and diff bushings out, adjusted the coil heights to where I "think" they're gonna be, and did some much needed cleaning in the garage.

Tomorrow night is installing all the brake lines and getting the new bushings in the rear end!

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With the exception of the passengers line - all the original rubber lines came out like a friggen dream. Passenger front took alittle more elbow grease and my big boy panties to break loose (didn't help it was a bench/tri day so pushing was a chore). So all new stainless braided lines are installed!

When we were bleeding some of the fluid out when disconnecting the rear lines - we pumped the brake pedal alittle bit. The passenger front piston had pushed itself out of the caliper - should I be concerned about it? It pushed back in relatively easily (what I consider to be adequate pressure to get back in). I'm thinking this is normal from pumping the brakes? I believe that was the only caliper disconnected from the carrier at the time (which is why the drivers didn't push out as well). Thoughts?

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I had a set of 912's

Best performance all-season tire out there IMO , gets rave reviews from Grassroots Motorsports and the treadlife is excellent too. 

I am ready for real performance tires now so summer-only it is for me,  but the 912's are a great tire!

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They'll be a 205/40 on 9's all around (with that width - a "proper" tire would cause clearance/fender issues and not allow the ride height I want). I'm also partial to alittle stretch for a nice flush fitment.

Wheels should be back from paint early next week, getting closer every night to rolling next weekend for alignment and some fun!

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wow, those wheels are awesome! they are like a Hartge design with a lip.

Proper sized tires would be 235's or 245's on a 9" wide wheel IMO. 

I may try 255's 
I have 205's now that came on my authentic STR wheels (not fake STR's) 

#allforlooks

#eurohatch
#f***yourfakewheels
#stretchedbutthoal
 

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Without fender flares tho on a 9" wheel in front - the offset needs to be low enough to clear the coils (ET10ish). That width and offset + 235/245-anything will never fit under the stock fenders (without 4x4 height).

I know the stretch/low isn't for everyone - but it is my preference.

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