DrLeadFoot

Happy birthday!!!

May you avoid contracting lead poisoning on this very special day!

Happy Birthday and Happy Boosting!

Happy birthday mang!!

Happy Birthday sir

Happy Birthday! Have a great day!

I think once he gets a TPS, and gets the fuel rail welded up, its just a matter of making a fuel rail mount bracket, modding some of the charge piping, and wiring up the sensors.

 
 
I THINK HE TOLD ME HE WOULD HAVE IT DONE NEXT WEEKEND 


Im pretty sure it bugs the crap out of him when I prod him like this , lol. 

I would use a thread insert rather than a helicoil.  It should be easier to get it to seal and should stay put better.  Use a tapered tap and don't go all of the way through so that the insert gets snug (think tapered pipe thread) and clean out good with brake cleaner so the loctite sticks good, if the insert is too long then cut/grind the end off once its in there securely.

there are many ways to seal the inner frame rails. i usually use a piece of 1/4" brake line and an old paint gum to spray the inner rail with rubber coating. help at 120psi does wonders!!!
 
 
 dropped the front subframe
 

 
also finished stripping out the engine bay finally.
 
 

i definately recommend the rebuilt to save a few $$, its not very difficult.  the hardest part is getting the c-clip on and off to remove the cylinder from the car, but once you master that doing this is a breeze.
 
heres a picture i took of how I diagrammed the rebuild
 

 
of course, get a new key at the same time you rebuild the lock so they work the best together.  when I rebuilt the lock on my last e30, the original key was so worn it wouldnt work anymore with the rebuilt cylinder.

Don't let this be any of you.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbO4Vp3pIa4

Depending on work.
I'll go.

Don't let this be any of you.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbO4Vp3pIa4

Havent updated this in a loooooong time! Hopefully I remember everything. This time I will let the pictures do most of the talking. Firstly tho, the rebuilt head, intake mani and exhaust mani/turbo were reinstalled into the block. Timing covers were cleaned and painted with a new crank seal installed into lower cover.
 
Pulleys/trigger wheel painted and installed.

 
Steering rack rebuilt with new poly bushings and tie rod assemblies.



 
Steering shaft cleaned and rebuilt with new poly bushing.


 
Steering rack covers cleaned and painted.


 
New control arms installed due to old ones seized completely. This is one way to remove them, lol.

 
E12 throttle body installed.

 
Intercooler came in the mail.

 
 
Front suspension rebuilt with custom coilovers and Bilstein struts.
Old

Stock springs perch cut off comparison

Coilovers


 
 
And for a little sneak peak of whats coming in the winter …..

It has definitely been busy as hell at work and my weekends have been preoccupied with others things, but I can finally post an update. To answer 02intherockies questions, the rear brake hose issue was solved by using e30 rear brake hoses screwed directly into the caliper. It’s a tiny bit of a stretch, but it works. I finally got the crank pulley to come off thanks to the help of a gigantic gear puller from Advance Auto. The smaller one I got from O'reilly just didn’t cut it apparently. I am in the process of replacing the seal in the timing cover right now. Once that is done, I will mount the new machined down crank pulley and mock up how to trigger wheel will sit in relation to the vr sensor. Going along with my copper rear end, I said screw it and used up some more paint on the pulleys. Most of you probably won’t agree, but to each their own, right?
 
Water pump pulley and vr sensor mount

 
My brother and my dad both work at a machining/metal spinning company, so I utilized their expertise and machines at their work. I picked up a big chunk of solid aluminum 3-1/4” rod from Speedy Metals for $20 and had my brother throw it on the lathe to make some spring dividers. I just drew it up in CAD and away it went. As you know, when using helper springs you need a divider between it and the main spring. A couple days later and we had this.
 
S
S
 
Which gets installed like this.
S
 
From that point, the rear coilover setup was complete to the point of install. I will have to wait and see the ride height once I can put the car on the ground, so tweaking most likely will be needed.
 

C
C
 
Along with that stuff I mocked up the front euro bumper using bmacs adapters that I powdercoated earlier in the build. My front valance is dented in from someone backing into the car, so that made it a big rough to mount it. All-in-all I think it looks better than what I had.
 
F
 
That is all for now. Stay tuned!

Here you go guys! Subframe is in!
 

 

Thanks for the welcome. Web got about 700 miles on the car as of yesterday. So far it's been averaging about 34 mpg. I consistently see 44 to 48 on the highway.
Cheers!
Joe

Shoot from the hip really lol, I have an AFR gauge that is wired into MS and has a standalone gauge, it runs off of MAP and has no MAF.

That is the table that tuning is done on, given the values on the Axis are different than mine, but it is the same idea. I can tune on the fly, all changes are immediate and once they are burned to the ecu (which you can do while driving) they are set. 
The tuning is all just shooting for the AFR you want, and there is a assisted version to help smooth out large areas (automatically tunes to values that you set) 
I am the god of my engine in short, there are more options and settings and I/O's than I know what to do with !

hooray for updates and a video!

2014 needs to be the year that everyone has their car up and running for an awesome spring meet + drive. 
 
There are no excuses for anyone, max out those credit cards, donate all your plasma, sell a kidney, eat lunch out of a dumpster and get ready for an amazing driving season

My next little undertaking that needs to be done to get this thing close to 100% right:
 
- Switch my heater core hoses on the firewall.  I read a couple of places that if you have them incorrect you will only blow hot air at idle and get cold air at speed which are my current symptoms.  DONE
 
- While my hands are tucked in there I'm going to install my adjustable FPR.
 
- With the coolant coming out of the car I will pull my radiator to 1) completely drain the system as much as I can to get fresh coolant in there just for peace of mind, 2) deal with a striped bolt on my vanos cover (ugh!) and 3) RTV seal + reinstall the vanos cover gasket.  I'm 99% this is where the oil leak is coming from.  An educated guess by the DOC.  DONE
 
- Fill with distilled water then drive to my buddies shop where he can pressure fill the system with the liquid gold aka BMW blue coolant, water wetter and distilled water.
 
- While there do an oil change with royal purple and take a oil sample and send out to get tested to see what she is sweatin' off in there.
 
- Replace the current BOV vacuum hose with a 1/4" I.D. braided line.
 
If all goes well with the oil leak and BOV I'll then change the boost to low 20s psi. and have a beer.

Well, the 318i coolant neck has been drilled and tapped for the MS temp sensor along with getting cleaned and painted. The BOV also got a sprits of fresh paint (not the greatest, but no one will see it anyways, lol).
 

 
I also removed the Megajolt unit (which is for sale by the way)
 

 
And I went ahead and tore apart the oem wiring harness. This was definitely an interesting thing to do. So much wiring was removed it shocked me.
 
What was removed

 
What needs to stay

Are you going this route?

No worries. I'll be there a lot in the next few weeks. I forgot to shoot any pics. I'll post some tomorrow.

Very nice Cherokee limited

hooray for another Camry driver.  Suffer in agony with me.
 

 
Quite possibly one of the most reliable cars ever made.
Quite possibly the worst car for an enthusiast to drive.
 
Somebody please hit me this winter. I yearn for something more enjoyable, because waiting for this car to break and stop running on its own is going to take far far too long. 
 
 
also, if that is not a v6 camry, then I will have to question the sanity of the sick soul that fitted it with urban racing attire.
 
 
the 2.2 is a lazy motor that pulls hard from idle to about 932rpm then runs out of breath anywhere after.