Jump to content
WI BIMMERS - Wisconsin's BMW Community

Recommended Posts

A while back Helmut was sporting a stock m10 with the turbo big enough to disintegrate that poor motor. After two years of trashing this setup my turbo manifold decided to crack every weld and reject the turbo flange. 

50886743607_4e0f919e47_b.jpgHelmut by w grync,

50886637736_366c97219c_b.jpgHelmut by w grync, on Flickr

50886743827_8755fc6baf_b.jpgHelmut by w grync,


I decided to get rid of the m10 and switch to more modern unit. I acquired the early m42 with the plan to boost it. Stock 1.8 is nice if you like it to spool at 5k rpm. 

Since I got family in Poland, and Poland is Europe's junkyard, there are plenty of e36,e34 and e39  m47 diesels sold for parts. I found two diesel cranks and have them shipped to the States.

With M47 crank and enough bore I will have close to 2.1L. It should spool nicely especially with some efr (if budget allows)

49528881652_1f402aa446_b.jpgM47 diesel crank by w grync,

 To use it in m42 the crank nose has to be turned to match the m42 chain sprocket ID. Also additional keyway needs to be cut.  M47s use same bearings as m42/m52s. I plan to use the 360 thrust bearing. Question: What is your opinion on the 360 degree oiling grooves for high (er) rev applications (8-8.5k rpm)? 

49528881577_b507ee19f3_b.jpgM47 diesel crank by w grync,


With power goals that I got in my mind the whole stock drivetrain was not up to the task.

I had the e28 subframe modded to fit e21 from my previous project. I had to decide  what to do with the front end. 

There were two options: e21 front with e12 hubs to make it 5x120 or the more entertaining way using the whole e36 front end. 


Front Subframe


I roughly chopped 3" of the middle of the front e36 subframe and welded it back together. I had to modify frme rails in order to bolt the new subframe in. 


Stock vs e36

49944026751_f5f3e104cc_b.jpgE36 modified subframe by w grync


49944319787_09940ac0d8_b.jpgE36 modified subframe by w grync,


49944026536_85d5b719db_b.jpgE36 modified subframe by w grync


weld the crap out of it

49943519513_c089a2f519_b.jpgE36 modified subframe by w grync,


Frame rails

I used panzer angles and tube to make it bombproof. I guess anything over 1/8" is overkill but oh well. 

49961813893_caa439047c_b.jpgUntitled by w grync,

49961813988_ed5cd14ec0_b.jpgUntitled by w grync,

50886616766_7c61267cd9_b.jpgFront suspension by w grync


Control arm Mounts

I decided to use the wider e46 arms to match the increased rear track width. SLR adjustable lollipops were used to center the wheel.

50886616751_a455de2872_b.jpgFront suspension by w grync,

50840568687_5d7e31d5b5_b.jpgE46 arms and lollipop mount by w grync,

50885890988_5f5cfe165f_b.jpgFront suspension by w grync,

I set the arms parallel to the subframe for the neutral anti-dive. I can always add some spacers under lollipop mounts to increase anti-dive

50841757976_4bc73c20ee_b.jpgControl arm angles by w grync,


Trailing Arms

The rear end is as problematic as the front. to fit wider wheels i needed to move shock pickup points almost 2" in. Shock mounts are from https://www.aa-mfg.com/

50886631061_626f20a59d_b.jpgTrilingarm by w grync,

50886657957_17753aa121_b.jpgRear suspension by w grync




Stock e46 330i up front and e32 rears. 



Koni race single adjustables. Front and rear e28 swaybars. Not sure about the spring rates.

I modded the front e36 strut housings. I chopped the tops and welded volvo 740 threaded top portion of the strut tube.  


50886670661_d52e31b31c_b.jpgStrut tubes e36 by w grync

50885945428_d2aaec5510_b.jpgStrut tubes e36 by w grync



Progress might be slow but I hope to build the motor over the summer and maybe even have it on the road this year.  



pe that it will

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, B C said:

I love your ingenuity and fearlessness.

Have you ever considered a K20/K24 swap?

I did. I just dont like 12” overhang on the swap flywheels. I would have to sleeve the block to be reliable at the power levels that i want to run. Aftermarket is much better tho and there will be a good reliable suply of engines for the next 20 years. 

I’ll run m42 for now  and when i pop it i might switch to k24 or something else.




Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

I pulled one side rear fender and will start working on the other side.

50944419952_fef083dd89_k.jpgHelmut by w grync,

I cut the inner fender and pulled until it started to dent the outer then i backed up a bit. I welded piece of sheet metal to the inner to fill the gap. I will prime with epoxy and seam sea the shit out of it. 

I got my new Mig setup its the everlast i-mig200e. I have only experience with some crappy 60 amp mig and inverter tig machine. So far i am impressed with that new mig.

50944318976_df81418e20_k.jpgHelmut by w grync,

I migged the front lollipop mounts together. And will weld them to the frame rails later this week.

50944419292_a346b89ec3_k.jpgHelmut by w grync

50944318996_b84e03e733_k.jpgHelmut by w grync,

I had to notch the rear frame rail to clear the triling arm.

50944419767_a4adfe6ca2_k.jpgHelmut by w grync

Trailing arms with the new shock mounts tacked in.

50943647178_50dea54477_k.jpgHelmut by w grync,

50944347006_db9108ba13_k.jpgHelmut by w grync,


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Damn its been almost  two months since the last update.


i got distracted  building my welding/shop table. 1/4" top 2x3x1/8" tube. Nice and solid. Good enough for some light duty welding


51053455056_4e73b7edd2_k.jpgHelmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr

51052725563_47f95c171b_k.jpgHelmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr


I pulled the second fender, finished front coilovers and welded the lolipop mounts. i put some contours in and my car looks like crap. Waaaaaay too big


51017938135_a16cac2fd5_k.jpgUntitled by w grync, on Flickr


I am changing plans and will roll on 15x7s with some skinny 205s this season (if it ever comes out of the garage this season).


Since my car is wider front and back by roughly 30mm per side the standard e21 offsets do not work anymore. and finding high offset 8-9" wheels with 5x120 pattern is almost impossible. I could build some splits but it would probably  cost more than my car is worth.


I got set of these for $40. Just need some paint. 15x7et20

51083669058_33c6225f7c_h.jpgUntitled by w grync, on Flickr



Oh and i just ordered a nice an light flywheel (6-7lbs) to accept my 7.25" tilton clutch. I suspect some terrible clutch engagement characteristics. It will be chirp the tires or stall and nothing in between.



Lastly i had to shorten e36 tie rods to get the toe in check. 

I cut, welded and added some sleeves to prevent shopping cart mode in the future.

51053454886_7a14ffa73c_k.jpgHelmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr








Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...


Another month and another update. I refinished style 7s and wrapped em with some cheapo toyos 195/45/15s. 


















This thing sits low 



Good thing is I plan to run some 16s which will be 1-1.5" taller. Either way there are no chances to run the 3" exhaust under the subframe. There is not much space for the 3" over he subframe either. I suspect some side exits in the future.


I had to redo the whole rear subframe because I messed up the angles of the diff. Diff cover was too close to the floor. Fortunately I had e21 and e28 subframes lying around. Quick chop and weld and now its good to go with the diff sitting at much better angle. 


I also test fitted the m42. It is a rear sump setup and I will definitely need to  chop some oil pan off to get the head to clear the firewall. 

I will most likely have to vert mount it if I will ever want to turbo it. Also it is pushed so far back that the first exhaust runner is uncomfortably close to the firewall and strut tower/inner fender and slanted situation is not helping at all. Also a lollpop mount and arm might be a bit in  the way of the downpipe. 


I got my Australian engineered, made in Taiwan chromoly flywheel from Rama. This thing is so light that I thought that I got an empty box.

Flywheel weighs 5.5lbs and flywheel/tilton 7.25" twin is right at 13.5lbs. Drivability will suck big time.















Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I figured out my swaybar situation. I got a set of e30 ST bars 22/19mm front fits pretty good. I will link the front to the strut housings just like e36m3. 






I started chopping the oil pan and should weld something up this or next week.





I got a new torch: ck tl26  I might need the whole 200 amps to do 1/4” aluminum for the oil pan. The torch that came with my thermal arc is ok but the cables are way to heavy and stiff. New ck feels much better. Its still air cooled. I might get the water cooler at some point.


I also ordered the ECU. It is Maxx ECU race unit. https://www.maxxecu.com/products/race

It has everything that I will need and more.  


What is your opinion on the lcd dashes? I would like to run a dash instead of bazillion of gauges. I would like to have the ability to see timing, e85 concentration in addition to boost, o2, oil pressure  and whatever else I might need at the moment. Having al the information in one area also helps. You can also program whatever alarms you need and it will pull everything from ECU via can 

I like the aim dashes but the only option to have 10" dash is to go with their PDM unit. Haltech is not bad, there are couple other that are not bad but not sure about the support. ECU mater ADU is very nice but quite expensive. 





Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, ASTROCHIMP said:

Not sure how much help this will be. But I found this today while browsing around bimmerpost looking at digital gauge options for my e90. No clue how good they are and the website has a really scammy name. But it claims to mate up to the maxx ecu.https://customdigitalgauges.com/products/race-cluster 

I’ve seen it before. Their universal dash that talks to maxx ecu does not have bmw graphics but i am sure they could load it. 
I am not sure about the support tho.

I like aim’s flexibiity with CAN. You can define your own can protocols. Also aim has multiple pages that can be swapped. What i dont like about most dashes is that you cant use your own graphics . Most of em have predefined graphics and will allow only changes to some parts of the graphic and maybe a font size and color.

Maxx Ecu has built in bluetooth and they have app for apple and android. I dont know how responsive the gauges run on a tablet would be. 




Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, YoungCR said:

Wheels turned out great, what paint did you use? I wish the style 7’s came in 16” as well.

Duplicolor cheapo laquer from Oraily it comes in quart size cans.



I sprayed that with smaller touchup gun 1.0 tip. Just stirred it and shot it. 
i was too cheap to buy a clear to go with it so i followed with rattlecan clear. I dont expect it to last.

 I will run em just for one season to see if i havent screwd something up  with suspension. If the car survives first season i will get some 16s with some beefier tires. 

27 minutes ago, SteelBlue said:

Would run these on my car if they did.

I would love to have em in 16x7 and 16x8 or even 8/9”.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.