B C Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 Set tpsdot threshold to 999%/s When you are done with ve tuning set it back to whatever it is that you want it to be (130%/s is what i use) then adjust the nodes to add or subtract enrichment. Too much will bog. Too little will lean backfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian. Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 I've always wondered how the, drive it like you stole it method for break in worked compared to the taking it easy. I know on the STi's it was a huge debacle. Some said go easy, others said to break it in like how you were going to drive it. I vote for beating it like a red headed step child method. How did you come to your method? Just going of skittles experience? Just curious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 I was reading an article or two on it, there is a website based on breaking engines in. It makes a lot of good points on engine break in. I am pretty much just going on that. Works well on tims car too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian. Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Post a link? I'd be interested to read on that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/gunmetalgrey/th_VID_20140822_162626_968_zps47c5044e.mp4Little sound clip for the kids, put some miles on yesterday but something just isn't right and I am working on figuring it out. I have way more timing than what I feel like I should, and when doing a "pull" it will feel hesitant, then pull very hard for about 1 second, then go back to being hesitant. Going to hit up the trigger logs, composite logs, because the standard data log didn't show anything odd going on. At this point I am not scared to just mess with things, if the engine got ruined by the tune or not broken in correctly because of that it would have already had the damage done. In the grand scheme of things the engine isn't even expensive, maybe 500 dollars of a many thousand dollar build. It's just very discouraging to not have it working right.One thing that I was expecting but hoping not to have to do is an oil cooler, after beating on it (staying in boost constantly) yesterday when we stopped the oil was at around 230 degrees. I can't be having that! Unfortunately a legitimate oil cooler setup will run me around $500, but gotta pay to play!The hood will fit! Put the front lip on too! Have to modify a few things before I can bolt the hood down. mkoepp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suspenceful Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 So nice to see this car making good progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Unfortunately the thing can't hold its fluids. I have a leak from the lower radiator hose, primary chain tensioner, and the diff that the guy said didn't leak leaves a six inch puddle every time I drive it. And of course the input seal is the culprit... After driving for a bit I found I do need an oil cooler. 220 degree oil is not okay. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Thats not the S3.73 i traded you that leaks, is it? Id hate to be 'that guy' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 No, it wasn't you! Fear not sir Snap! Its a 2.93 LSD as well Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suspenceful Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 220 degrees is about the oil temp my 135i stays at once fully warmed up... and it has a baby oil cooler. I know every 135i stays around 230 degrees. First link after Googling "average oil temperature" says, For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (water’s boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion by-product) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings.As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, I would not want to routinely see under-200-degree oil temps.A full-synthetic oil will withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, and for hard-core professional racing, some oval-track race teams are experimenting with ultra-thin, specially formulated, race-only synthetics operating at 350 degrees or even higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 While I get the points they make in that, but I also have to look at a few other factors. Hydraulic lifters need their oil, very hot oil results in low oil pressure thus starving the liftersHolset states that max oil temp cannot exceed 245 degrees under any conditionThis temperature was achieved after a session that was not too harsh, nor was it that long. I am not making any power right now (less power less heat) and when I finally get things figured out I will be making much more power resulting in higher temps all around.Coking would also suck, because the turbo is oil cooled and I don't want to put in a new turbo yet. Side note, the S54 and S52 euro both have oil coolers with a thermostat built into the oil filter housing, this thermostat is set to 180 degrees. I would assume they would not set the cooler up to be detrimental to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suspenceful Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 M50 =/= N54. Just throwing my possibly useful/useless info out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 So the other day I did some serious research and adjusted my coil dwell times and injector dwell times based on other values and calculations. After doing this I got a knock on one cylinder with a high idle (1300rpm) the knock was fairly consistent but only on ONE cylinder. I tested it with more advance (~15 degrees) and less advance (~8 degrees) with no real change, noting that it would always backfire after it knocked. After some talking with Snap I (we) decided to grab a new set of injectors that I could get all of the specs on (including voltage correction tables) so I listed the old set (Delphi 65lb/hr Low-Z) on r3v and 2 hours later they were sold for just a bit less than what I paid for them. I find it amusing that I sold something that was literally still in my car and full of fuel, but maybe that's just me. I just ordered a new set of Siemens Deka 80lb/hr High-Z injectors, the high impedance allows me to eliminate my resistor board that I had to run with the low-z injectors so I will be able to simplify my install a bit. It may seem a bit irrational to order new injectors, but it was honestly something I had been debating doing for quite some time now (before the car even ran) to eliminate any possible issues with the low-z and not being able to directly drive them. If the new injectors still cause the same issue I will start attacking the spark side of things, I will make this car run correctly! Stock picture of the injectors because posts without pictures suck. Also a picture of the car with the hood set on, which will fit with the turbo in there, so that's cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 So what you are saying is that this will be at the October meet?!?!?!?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 I would love to think so!I would also like to think it will be on 16psi at that point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowleym Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Oh OH OH OH E855555555555 You can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 A very shaky clip of Tim's car with the built S52 doing a little 2-3-little bit of 4th pull. Rev limiter is set at 7000 or 7100 rpms right now, and will probably go up still. As noted before it screams, and unfortunately its just not the same in videos...Did some more investigating today as to why I was getting a single cylinder misfire, got my new injectors in and rewired the ECU for it. Fired it up and still had the same exact problem, so the injectors themselves were not the issue. Started firing coils in megasquirt (test mode) to see if any of them were not firing. Everything sounded in order so I started pulling plugs to figure out what cylinder it was. I think I found it... cylinder 4 is on the right and cylinder 3 is on the left.Picture was taken right after I pulled them out, and the only one that was different was cylinder #4. After talking to Mr. Snap he suggested to check the ground for the injectors, sure enough it was hanging on by one tiny strand of copper. Going to replace that and see if it helps! It now makes sense as to why I was making no power, I was never firing correctly on one cylinder. Hope it didn't damage anything!Video of it running with the knock B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Sorry i didnt have more time to chat. I just finished work for the day. 5a-9p bloooooows. Im thinking this may be bassboy's problem as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 You know whats amazing? The video I posted of my car earlier was it running with the wrong firing order...I finally found that you do not wire Injector A to Cylinder one, and Injector B to Cylinder 2 and so on. I remember earlier this year finding that the cylinders were all assigned to odd letters, well what I didn't remember was the fact that for the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 (upper numbers are firing order, lower letters are correct cylinder assignments for MS3) I had it as 1-5-3-6-2-4 A-B-C-D-E-F A-E-C-F-B-D so it was missing bad. This explains a lot, like the lack of power. I am quite amazed it ran as it was.. Feel like kind of an idiot, but gotta learn some how. I tend to second guess myself, and this is living proof.Now I can start making some real forward progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suspenceful Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Hell yeah! I got caught up on the same thing with my Miata at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Wow that's interesting. But hey who reads manuals right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 My hero Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 I got to drive my own car for the first time in 2 years, feels good bro. It's amazing what a difference the correct firing order makes....Tuning started, and I have it okay up to about 5900rpm. No video, but it does move pretty good at 6psi... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Added more timing, and more power came with it! I hope I am not destroying my clutch lol , breaking it in easy is not an option! Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2 DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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