Bassboy3313 Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Got the braces done for the hood project. Hoping it works as it should to hold the hood in correct shape while I fiberglass the structure underneath. Debating what to use to glue the pvc to top of hood. It has to be strong enough to hold hood to shape and also be able to be removed easily after structure is fiberglassed in underneath. Any suggestions? I also grabbed a set of smoked turn signal lenses. They are for Euro signals, so the US housings require trimming to fit. As you can see. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 310hp NA 4cyl I am fully erect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Well the pvc forms and hot glue seem to be working great! The hot glue will remove nicely too when it gets to that part. I'm taking Dan's advice and will be putting one more pvc piece on diagonal to make an N shape. I should then be able to remove from car, flip it over and glass in the actual structure. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 Straight lines are hard Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 So I got into my car this morning to do another tune run, push the start button (push button ignition) and I got absolutely nothing from starter. Everything gets power when I flip the ignition switch, but no cranking whatsoever from starter. Battery is brand new, so that can't be the issue. All wiring I see is snug and tight. I have my start button wired up to the diagnostic port pins that go to starter and battery bus. It was the easiest way to do it at the time. I did disconnnect the wires and connected my remote test button to diag. port and still nothing. Haven't had any issues until now. Hell, it even started up just fine on monday. Anybody have any ideas for me?? Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Did you try jumping power straight to the starter to make sure the solenoid didn't shit out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 No I haven't. I'll have to look into it as I'm not familiar with doing that. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Use a screw driver to jump the posts. Build is looking great!! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Use a screw driver to jump the posts. Build is looking great!! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Yeah. I wouldn't want to mess anything up further Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrLeadFoot Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Use a screw driver to jump the posts. Build is looking great!! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools Is this why none of my cars work? Lol Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Well, after letting it sit for a day and the battery on a charger just for good measure, I went out there to try again. Tried to start it like normal and nothing still. Took my multimeter and checked that the main power wire going to starter had same voltage as battery, it did. I then hooked up my remote tester switch to the diag. port to test the ignition wire on the starter for 12V. Starter started cranking, didn't know car was in gear, ran over my foot, ouch!! Took it out of gear, hooked the push button back up to the diag. port like I usually have it, went inside cabin to start car, fired up no problem. So my conclusion is I am either looking at a starter that is starting to go out or the wiring at the diag. port is being finicky and I should find a new way to wire up my push button start. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 I would wire up the ignition into the end of the harness instead of the diag port just to eliminate concerns but a new starter wouldn't be a bad idea either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasnt m3 Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 There's a place in Butler that rebuilds starters for $40, if you don't feel like buying a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 I got one with the sedan project, so maybe ill get that one tested and see if its usable. If so, I could swap it into the e21 and get that one rebuilt for the sedan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 Turns out the wiring connection on the starter from the sedan is completely broken. So looks like I'm in need of 2 starters now. :/ On a side note. Made a front strut brace yesterday. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 Question for you engineers. When the strut brace is bolted in like that, couldn't the towers still move? I'm sure it's negligible, just curious. The IE bar I have is solid from tower to tower fwiw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk It sometimes helps with install if I jack the car up from the middle of the front subframe and let everything hang lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 I believe it may be the push button itself. Hooked remote button to diag port, it cranked. Hooked push button up to diag port, it cranked too. Pushed it again and nothing. Hooked remote button to diag port and it cranks Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Thanks to Kyle's shop mate Connor, I'll be picking up my new modified rear subframe hopefully this week. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk B C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 For anyone not in the know: its so he can sell his unicorn blood e21 LSD for $500 and use a more robust medium case diff. an elusive S3.46 at that. KaiserRolls 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted July 2, 2016 Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Sweet! Have a lot of guys done the diff conversion like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2016 Only a few guys I know have done it this way. Others have used the entire e30 subframe and just weld the e21 mounts to ends. That changed the offset and spacing tho. Same with using entire e28 subframe which others have done too. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 All about the rare parts up in here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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