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'88 E30


KaiserRolls

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the gripforce stage 3/4 clutches are pretty good! they definitely don't last too long, and they chatter a bit, but man they are cheap and hold power. I have no complaints. But I also would not buy one expecting to not replace it soon. 

that being said, I would probably get a different clutch for this car, especially if you have future FI goals or something. 

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the gripforce stage 3/4 clutches are pretty good! they definitely don't last too long, and they chatter a bit, but man they are cheap and hold power. I have no complaints. But I also would not buy one expecting to not replace it soon. 

that being said, I would probably get a different clutch for this car, especially if you have future FI goals or something. 

FI wouldn't happen for a while.

How long is "not too long" ?

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Well I'm not sure what kind of driving you are doing, but about a season of drifting would do it in. I'm not sure how often you clutch kick, but I kick a whole bunch.

Personally if I was in your spot and wanted to drive it this summer, I would buy the cheap clutch and have fun all summer. Save up, and don't push it if it starts to slip.

Also not sure what kinda position you are for spending money, and how much time means to you.

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5$ says the cheap eBay clutch will do you justice for a while.

I mean, how long before you can afford the clutch you want right?

It takes me about 2 hours to change a clutch on an e30. I couldn't imagine it being much more with a 24v swap.

I would rather drive the car now with a cheap clutch versus drive it next summer with a nice clutch(could still do

That)

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No progress really, just put the pan on after getting a new pickup tube gasket. Also put some ngk plugs in it.

Just need to swap the harness from the m50 to the s50. Clean up intake manifold & put new gaskets in it. Clean up TB. Random vacuum line from fpr to intake. Random coolant line to bypass TB.

Then all the driveline/clutch stuff

Oh and a serp belt

fc7c0a289ea74b2a6fe0c8791e4a9979.jpg

How it sits now. I bet the white gets dirty before I even put fluids in it

Do have a question: I've read that you need to run shorter bolts to hold the crank pulley on after removing the ac pulley. Some say they ran shorter, others did not. I cannot see anything touching something it shouldn't. For piece of mind I'll probably just get shorter bolts

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Small tube from PCV

970d04d42b10835eb0b2b7fee654f5e7.jpggoes to this little nipple close to the white gasket (top of pic) on the ICV hose which goes into the intake manifold 381b412980a4eeca5bd8b485f08bb46c.jpg

Large tube has those barbed connectors on the dipstick tube it can be connected to. Or I could just run it to a catch can. Instead of having it drain everywhere

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I blocked the small hose as it doesn't really do much and will be running the large hose into a catch can, but the large one is currently vented to atmosphere.

I needed shorter bolts in the timing wheel, but ended up turning the pulley into a spacer instead. 

Assuming you also blocked the nipple on the ICV hose?

I'm gonna probably order shorter bolts then. I don't want to put the pulley back on

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I am using that one for boost related things, so it works out well for me! In your case you should block it off.

Yeah, shorter bolts will do the trick. I cut off the pulley portion so I just had the flat disc, instead of getting shorter bolts.  :cool:

Any purpose to blocking off the small line other than simplifying crap/not letting oil get everywhere

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On obd1 the large line goes to the intake elbow before the throttle body. Obd2 it goes to the cyclone cannister thing and then to the dipstick tube. You could put a catch can between if you dislike oil in your intake manifold. I just giver, more lubrication hurts nothing.

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