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Turns out I think the bad ignition was from me. I took the column apart awhile back with intentions of lowering it. E30's have fixed columns and it feels like im driving a bus and I hate it. I got all the way to the point of realizing that there were safety bolts under there and stopped. Now that I am back in there again I will successfully lower it now.

Anyone remove these bolts before? (pic for reference)

IMG_0124_zps1991acf7.jpg

Anyways back to the Ignition. when I was removing the plastic cover for the column I unplugged the ignition harness wires from the back of the lock cylinder and broke one of the tabs unknowingly. This was causing the the cylinder the separate from the harness intermittently giving me the no start issue and the key no feedback/engagement in the column. Now the big question is, do I spend $80 on a new ignition because I broke a tab, or do I fix it?

Pic of what I am talking about:

61321377069.jpg

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11 minutes ago, Bassboy3313 said:

In the e21 world, people take a dremel/grinder and cut a slit or cross into those safety bolts and use a screwdriver to remove them. Then they replace them with normal hex bolts when putting it all back together. 

So far that's what I have read as well. I was thinking I could probably use one of these to make it easier?

Image result for rounded bolt removal sockets

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the e34 has the same damn bolt.  depending on how much room you have, different methods can work. maybe on the e30 you can get one of those stripped bolt sockets, but on the e34 you cant fit one of those in the space under the column.  the 'slotting' method worked for me like bassboy said but required a screwdriver with a hex drive on it to get enough torque. alternatively, I could have used the dremel and cut the whole head off the bolt.

i pulled this from my e34 thread.:

On 7/26/2015 at 7:38 AM, straight6pwr said:

the column has an 'impossible to remove' bolt with just a domed head. my solution was dremel a slot into it and use a wrench and a screw driver to break it free. i tried my small impact wrench, but even the impact grade flat head bits just snapped into little bits.

wjib7vN.jpg

as far as the ignition switch, i'm sure you can find someone parting an e30 who will sell you one for cheap. they really don't wear out so as long as the car was starting it would be safe to get a used one.

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Thanks @straight6pwr I think its not that easy to get at on one side but the other is wide open. I might have to result to your suggestion. As far as the ignition harness I was looking into just molding a new part . It might make my life easier than buying a new/ used one, but I will certainly keep and eye out for someone parting out an E30.

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They're super simple to remove and swap out. You just need a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the two set screws holding it in. They're covered in wax. 

I removed the column bolts using a hammer and chisel. The head is soft enough where you can pound into it at and angle and break them free. They aren't all that tight. 

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On 11/1/2016 at 11:03 AM, Earl said:

They're super simple to remove and swap out. You just need a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the two set screws holding it in. They're covered in wax. 

I removed the column bolts using a hammer and chisel. The head is soft enough where you can pound into it at and angle and break them free. They aren't all that tight. 

Set screws and wax. Wut?

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1 hour ago, The Full Banana said:

Just remember to replace those shear bolts with some weaker hardware (grade 8.8 or so). Typically those bolts are designed to shear in a significant collision. 

You do remember this is an over powered convertible with no roll over protection at all right? Pretty sure if I hit anything hard enough to move the column, I will be ejected from the car before anything else.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Finally started cranking away at this again. I preregistered For Euro District so I would have a hard deadline to  push myself. As of the last two nights, I have made brackets to relocate and install my new power steering reservoir, and relocated my fuel pressure regulator under the intake manifold. My goal is to remove everything I can from the chassis in the engine bay, so that when I shave the bay, I will have a lot less work.

Although I fabricated a new bracket and moved the PS reservoir, I decided that at the end of the season when I do respray the bay, I am going to run a Z4 manual steering rack to help reduce some of the clutter in my engine bay. They are cheap and from what I have read, they have great feel and response.  I started looking into running a electric pump system or an electric rack as well, but cost, and clutter changed my mind there.

Besides all of that, I also modified the radiator brackets and made new intercooler brackets so that I could add 3mm between them providing more room for the Spal fan that I bought from @Snap 

I failed to take pictures of pretty much everything besides the PS reservoir as I was "IN THE ZONE" crannking on shit in the weeee hours of the morning. I will provide some more pictures later on when I button everything up.

IMG_1744.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finished relocating both the PS reservoir and the FPR and I am quite happy with the result. I no longer have anything besides the fuse box mounted to the engine bay of the car. I am a little worried about the new location of my fuel line as it is a few mm away from the main power wire going to my starter. I think I am going to build some type of plastic cover to keep the two divided "just in case." But other that that I was able to clean everything up and hopefully this winder I can shave and paint the engine bay.

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I also installed this nice Turbo blanket I got from @Bassboy3313 and it will really help keep the heat down and it looks much better than the rusty hot side.

IMG_1795.JPGIMG_1797.JPG

 

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I realized I didn't post any pictures of the complete engine bay in awhile. I accidentally spilled some chrome polish on the ground last night cleaning some wheels I have so I used it to clean some of the metal parts in the engine bay and snapped some pics quick.

Also, I am on the look out for some 17" staggered German Eclair wheels. If you have any leads, please let me know.

IMG_1925.JPGIMG_1924.JPG

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  • Jdesign changed the title to 1JZ E30 Vert Build Thread with Pastry filled wheels

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