SteelBlue Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 So I guess this is the rabbit hole of cars that I've never really experienced. Trans is gonna have to be disconnected from the motor to get it on the stand to turn it over to do the E34 oil pan modification. If the trans is gonna be off, why not maybe do the rear main seal while it's open? Why not get a new a clutch and fly wheel? Chris had said that the clutch felt good but if I am already in here, it's tempting. I think I have heard @KaiserRolls talking about Grip Force clutch kits being good? I really don't know the differences between stages, but from some reading, stage 3 seems track oriented. How is this stage 2 kit? This won't be a daily driver, so doesn't need to super comfort oriented. I was planning to do some of the shifter rebuild stuff while it's exposed, and having the trans off would make cleaning it easier. The motor has 222k, so I feel like I should be doing some of these things, but I don't know enough to judge if it's necessary or not. Need opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Do it all now. At bare minimum do the rear main seal, replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, clutch pivot pin, clutch slave, trans input seal, trans output seal, selector and shaft seals, I did all these things and now my cars nee owner gets to enjoy them Pretty much any clutch disk with a sprung hub will have very good drivability. I had a South Bend stage 3 street clutch for my turbo M20 and 24V swap. Its no stock honda civic clutch, but its very good on the street for daily driving. Avoid 6-puck or unsprung hubs unless you like skid racing and dragon races. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 19 minutes ago, snap said: Do it all now. At bare minimum do the rear main seal, replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, clutch pivot pin, clutch slave, trans input seal, trans output seal, selector and shaft seals, I did all these things and now my cars nee owner gets to enjoy them Pretty much any clutch disk with a sprung hub will have very good drivability. I had a South Bend stage 3 street clutch for my turbo M20 and 24V swap. Its no stock honda civic clutch, but its very good on the street for daily driving. Avoid 6-puck or unsprung hubs unless you like skid racing and dragon races. Yeah, it makes sense to just do it now. All added to the cart. When I am selecting the shifter bushing, should I be selecting one for an E36 S52? Should I be doing the entire RMS assembly? The entire kit or the seal? Would this be a good option for replacing clutch/flywheel? This is all a first time learning experience so I appreciate the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 I got the motor mount arms cleaned and painted. CLR and pressure washer did the trick. Condor mounts look good on here. I do not live in a 1920's black and white movie, I just made it black and white because the white balance was horrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Im not sure about the shifter bushing on a ZF, but the WIBIMMERS cardinal rule is no Uro brand parts. Uro parts are usually installed with a ban hammer. Chris will let you use his after he is done with it The clutch kit looks good to me (SteveBuscemi.png) the RMS assembly is a convenience. I have always pressed the old seal out, reused the housing, and re-installed the new seal at a slightly different location as there is usually a groove worn into the crank hub. The one on my M52 was the most severe groove I had seen, but offsetting the new seal and using a genuine BMW seal with the seal driver made for a successful install. While we are on the topic I will mention that there are also Speedi-sleeves that SKF makes in case you find a groove on yours and want to feel better about restoring that smooth sealing surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 8 hours ago, SteelBlue said: Would this be a good option for replacing clutch/flywheel? I just bought that exact kit, havent taken it out of the box yet though. I think @AsparagusMike and @KaiserRolls have gripforce setups too, so maybe they can weigh in? I've heard good things considering the price point, just make sure to buy a better quality pilot bearing and throwout bearing because the ones in the kit are apparently trash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 8 hours ago, snap said: Im not sure about the shifter bushing on a ZF, but the WIBIMMERS cardinal rule is no Uro brand parts. Uro parts are usually installed with a ban hammer. Chris will let you use his after he is done with it The clutch kit looks good to me (SteveBuscemi.png) the RMS assembly is a convenience. I have always pressed the old seal out, reused the housing, and re-installed the new seal at a slightly different location as there is usually a groove worn into the crank hub. The one on my M52 was the most severe groove I had seen, but offsetting the new seal and using a genuine BMW seal with the seal driver made for a successful install. While we are on the topic I will mention that there are also Speedi-sleeves that SKF makes in case you find a groove on yours and want to feel better about restoring that smooth sealing surface. So I should be buying a shifter bushing for a ZF not a 260? 6 hours ago, m42b32 said: I just bought that exact kit, havent taken it out of the box yet though. I think @AsparagusMike and @KaiserRolls have gripforce setups too, so maybe they can weigh in? I've heard good things considering the price point, just make sure to buy a better quality pilot bearing and throwout bearing because the ones in the kit are apparently trash @KaiserRolls pls respnd m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans. there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search. https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20 https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015 I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted June 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 5 hours ago, straight6pwr said: you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans. there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search. https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings Think I might grab @Earl's 3 hours ago, KaiserRolls said: I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff) Not sure if there is a good way to verify that or not, but will likely just buy some OEM type stuff. Do you have a stage 2? Would this be a good option for a non daily, mostly street car? Or should I go for the Stage 1? 54 minutes ago, Earl said: While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20 https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015 I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped👍 Probably interested in that bushing and sleeve. I will PM you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted June 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 8 hours ago, straight6pwr said: you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans. there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search. https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings So I actually misspoke. I added the correct shifter bushing to the cart now. However, I was originally referring to the bushing that goes in number 4 in this pic Is this the correct item to replace that? I appreciate everyones help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 Quote This can only be used if you also run delrin transmission bushings. The transmission and shifter having different allowable movements will cause linkages to brake, difficulty shifting and other issues. We also offer a hard poly version of this bushing for people who run rubber/poly transmission bushings. Those can be found here. leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30. m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted June 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 20 minutes ago, straight6pwr said: leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30. Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 4 hours ago, straight6pwr said: leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30. I had forgot this was for his e30=( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 9 hours ago, SteelBlue said: Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts. The garagistic part looks like a 'meh' solution to replacing that bushing, but I'm biased and have had nothing but trouble with their products. Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-motorsport-parts/shifter-bushing-assembly/021011tms01a/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIydis9KLi2wIVWbnACh2A4Ay-EAQYAiABEgIgnPD_BwE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 3 hours ago, m42b32 said: Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one This ^ FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it. patsbimmer1 and m42b32 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted June 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 5 hours ago, AsparagusMike said: This ^ FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it. Just ordered it through @patsbimmer1 I also purchased a stage 1 clutch kit through grip force. Bought a lot of seals, tie rods, and other things that I wanted to replace. There should be a good amount replaced on the car by the time it gets going. AsparagusMike and patsbimmer1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 @SteelBlue i went with stage 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 Anyone break a trans bolt head before? Still a good amount of the head left on the bolt, however, all of the hex portion is gone so theres really no way to get a socket on. I've heard using one of those reverse threaded/stripped bolt doodads might do the trick. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before. The bolt in question is the large one at about 11 o'clock if you were looking at the trans from the rear. It has the exposed threads at the backside which makes me think I could maybe cut the head of the bolt off and then thread two nuts on the exposed threading and loosen it that way? Don't want to make a hasty decision. First big mechanical issue in this process, many more to come I presume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 16 minutes ago, YoungCR said: No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks Rest of them broke loose fine. This one is the straggler holding it on. Talking with @MPW3RLee, might cut the head off to pull the trans off and then work the rest of the bolt that remains with some heat and vice grip. Or do some other shenanigans to get it out. Could be worse, trans could be still in the car and could have broken it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisO Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 9 hours ago, ChrisO said: How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat A good amount. That was my thought for getting it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 If you have access to a welder, you can weld a bolt to the head like this: Then you can get a proper socket on it and use an impact to get it out. The heat from the welder can help break it loose too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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