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ChrisO last won the day on March 5

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About ChrisO

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  • Birthday December 24

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    Green Bay, Wisconsin

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  1. https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/d/milwaukee-1999-bmw-m3/6889202242.html beauty
  2. I’m interested but it’ll probably go before I have the cash flow 😬
  3. ChrisO

    chit chat thread

    My Passat with the 2.0t rn
  4. ChrisO

    chit chat thread

    Learned what a Lancia 037 is today Pretty damn attractive
  5. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    The front doors might actually be rust free I’ll check them out, one of the rear doors has a massive dent
  6. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    Sorry I haven't updated in awhile, very busy with school and weather is just finally getting nice where I wanna be in my garage I appreciate all the suggestions from everyone, I'm going to put some oil in the cylinders and re-run the compression test. I also visited home this past week and grabbed my borescope so I can check out the cylinder walls and pistons. I can easily hook up pressurized air to the hose that came with my compression tester kit so I'll do that also if the compression numbers are still low For now I've been pulling the car apart, I had a moment today in the garage as I was gutting it (easily lost 400lbs today) thinking how cool it would be to rebuild it, completely simplify the car, cage it, put some light bucket seats in it and use it, until the carpet came up and the skirts came off I had a lot of fun getting this skirt off. A PO jacked on the fender seam and bent the fender/skirt up into the body of the car with the bolt holding the skirt on smashed inwards. When all this shit fell out after the skirt came off I knew it was no good Yeah its bad up front. Extending beyond this hole towards the frame rails under the undercoating is completely soft. The metal has rusted away just leaving a sheet of just undercoating haha Can see the hole to the front right of the jack point, although it looks mostly intact it's made up of multiple layers of metal and they are all swollen with rust in-between the layers. Rear wheel well, same story as the floor pan, completely rusted through under the undercoating up about a solid 6in beyond what you can see random firewall rust holes on the passenger side Hard to tell but this is a hole into the rockers Same story but worse on the passenger side Mysterious rusty puncture hole in the battery area Yeah so I've played this game before and I'm not going to again. I'm sure the inside of the rockers is horrifying Funny thing is though, parts of this car are really rust free, the rear jack points, pan and rockers dont even have surface rust. No rust on the quarters, no rust on the rear trunk lip, fenders aren't rusted through. This was a texas car until 2002, The rust is probably from sitting uncared for in a wet environment with trapped water for 11 years and not salt. Shame Making progress Idk what I'm doing with everything, I want the shell gone and all the regular e34 parts gone. I'm just kinda gonna hang on to everything M5 specific for now It sucks doing this to this car, it really does. I feel bad every time my garage opens and you see such a special car with nothing but a M5 badge left on the rear.
  7. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    Honestly whatever comes first a e34 touring or a 5 speed 535i! The tourings seem next to impossible to find
  8. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    Well I got around to compression testing the motor this morning. Test was dry and cold but Cylinder #1 gave false hope, decent number for a cold motor? Cylinder #2-4 crushed my dreams, I triple checked all of them and they were in the 60-70psi range And back to a more normal number in cylinder #6... I made sure to check each cylinder multiple times in different orders to make sure it wasn't user or equipment error So yea thats bad. So the car needs: Major engine work All new coolant hoses A gas tank A new battery A cam pulse sensor A intake boot New tires New brakes rear shocks every busing that is rubber in the car I also found a hole by the battery under the rear seat where it looks like something punctured the body?? It's all rusty now I'm still super happy with my purchase, but the amount of money and work it's going to need is gonna be too much. If the thing didn't have rusty jack points and holes in the pan I'd consider "bringing it back from the dead" I know it's a rare car but it's a easy $7000 in parts, and even if this was driving I don't see anyone paying over $8k with the overall condition/ rust. Decent rust free ones with similar miles go for 11-15k it seems like I still have my new M3 I'm trying to build, and my main focus is on that, not tearing down a s38 when I have no major engine work experience Sorry guys but I'm gonna look for a decent 535i to throw some fun parts on and beat around in 😓
  9. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    The car has a new fuel pump and fuel lines, the previous owner just put the tank back in in the last two years I havent personally cranked it, but in the last two years the previous owner tried to get it to run on multiple occasions I really appreciate the advice from everyone, I'm definitely going to put some oil down into the cylinders before I try to start it and put a quart through the motor. I'm probably going to pull the valve cover gasket to take a look at the sludge and make sure I see no obvious damage For now, there isn't a chance I could have gotten it to run today. I went over the engine bay very thoroughly and found several different issues that would prevent the car from running. The cam pulse sensor that surrounds a spark plug wire is destroyed. Unfortunately this is a $170 sensor, and is s38b36 specific and only available as a genuine BMW part. @straight6pwr you were right, it's already expensive Next pretty much every vacuum line is bad. The one off the fuel pressure regulator is completely split in half The intake boot post-maf is torn wideee open The maf plug was half plugged in So I need to order that cam sensor and a intake boot, and redo the vacuum lines. All pretty simple things, I'm going to pull the plenum off and redo all the vacuum lines while I wait for the sensor. I did put power to the car today though, just to see if everything worked. All headlights, tail lights, turn signals all work. Blower motor works, windows work, all seat functions work. Radio turns on but nothing comes out of the speakers, assuming It's thanks to the hellish wiring and amp/sub set up in the trunk. It was a good feeling to see the car come to life with power Just under 192k miles A lot for having sat the last 11 years, would probably be over 250k if it never stopped running I spent most of the day just degreasing and cleaning inside the engine bay, it was really bad and now I have a pretty clean motor to work with The itb throttle linkage was pretty gummed up, I really focused on that and it's much better now Gave the car a wash on the outside the best I could without running water, I just wanted to make it look less like a abandoned car in the parking lot of my apartment haha But yeah, no wonder the car wouldn't start... More to come
  10. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    Wow I didn't even notice that lmao, sweet
  11. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    Here’s just a few more pics of the car and some interesting things PO gave me a bucket of stuff from the car and these diagnostic tools were in it, along with a custom ground down spark plug socket (s38’s have very narrow spark plug holes) also in the bucket was a 12v adapter that plugs into where the glovebox flashlight goes Car has all the keys it came with from the factory, I think. Also has full documentation from the dealer Break in period sticker from when the car was new, assuming this is pretty damn rare to see full size m system spare and a almost complete tool kit Few interior shots
  12. Will u cum to one of my threads and roast me next
  13. ChrisO

    Chris’ e34 extravaganza

    Oh my bad, the car cranks, has spark, but no fuel. Of course the crank/pulse sensor wire is sheared in half. I was planning on wiring it up on Saturday and trying to figure out the no fuel issue. But really just the consistency of the sludge in the head is what concerns me and I was wondering if it could be possible from just moisture. I can’t make any assumptions based off coolant consumption/oil in the coolant/air in the coolant because it has none nor could I put some in it and bleed it as it won’t start. I agree tho, it seems wrong to try and start it as it sits.