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1978 e21 m20 turbo swap, AKA What did I get myself into


bfinley

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You may be correct, the Bentley manual doesn't specifically say they whether they are torque-to-yield or not, but they do specify to use new bolts in section 4-58.

 

Im sure plenty of people have re-used them without issue but boy wouldn't that really blow to have to tear it all back apart within a few hours/days of doing a trans+clutch job. 

Bassboy had a 240sx that had something similar happen. 

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I have reused them before, not saying that I am right though, I have seen that in the manual as well.  I assumed they are not TTY because it is a straight torque spec rather than torque then degrees like the head/ rod cap bolts.  Bentley also says not to reuse the bolts that hold the axle shafts to the differential.  Previously I just degreased them and put a little red loctite on them, It also needs the loctite to seal up or it can leak oil because the holes go all of the way through the crank flange.

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If you want to throw those 2.0L pistons, rods & crank my way I will gladly get them out of the way for you. :)

I was going to weld them up into a table or something.

I'll trade you for those decals ;) email me your shirt files too and I can get started on them.

Update: all glass except the door windows are out, I think I've found all the rust holes that need to be fixed, the main debate now is patch or replace...

There are some significant holes in the front fenders and new rockers are pretty much a given.

I need to shuffle money around to get the 2.7 from Mike, I really hate getting paid once a month...

My shop mates are making a run to steel mart so I should have some sheet steel to practice welding and making patches.

I'll need to get a lesson in POR15 from Mr. Menard as well

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Just brush it on! it self levels pretty nice, I use KBS Rustseal, available at Napa.  Similar product, some have said it's better, I just use it because it's easy to get and extremely durable.

I used nothing but KBS rust seal on my project and it is amazing! Cheaper than POR15 too. Never knew Napa carried it. I always ordered it straight from KBS and it would arrive next day most the time.

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

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I would go with the gloss black, it turns out great, no clearcoat needed unless it will get alot of sun.  Don't plan on reusing the brush and it's best to use the whole can, if you have to reclose it then put a piece of plastic on before the lid or it won't come off again.

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I would go with the gloss black, it turns out great, no clearcoat needed unless it will get alot of sun.  Don't plan on reusing the brush and it's best to use the whole can, if you have to reclose it then put a piece of plastic on before the lid or it won't come off again.

 

Yes! Do this! Speaking from experience as is JC I would imagine, lol. Also, wear latex gloves and a long sleeve shirt you dont mind ruining as once this stuff touches your skin it takes weeks to get off. Ask me how I know :P

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So I started painting the engine bay with the kbs... Completely disregarded the warning on gloves...ezu8eva2.jpg

Opps...

Also decided that despite being welded to the front valence the fenders need to be replaced and therefore be removed. No dice all the bolts are out and the finders won't budge. Inner fender is coated in a rubberized undercoat of some kind and I think it's holding the fender on. Really hoping that they aren't welded too

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  • 2 weeks later...

Goodness it's been a while, I've been slowly removing paint and bondo.. Gonna take it down to bare metal and build it back up. I finally got an argon tank for the welder. So after commencement I'll be patching the floors. Picked up a 2.7 eta from mike, full harness and ECU, connected to an auto trans which has already been removed. Fighting with the torque converter though.

so if anyone has an 885 head laying around... I want it

I'll get some pictures over the weekend

Mike and maybe John are going to come down this weekend to help me get the 2.7 eta on a stand, grind down some more paint and pull the dash.

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4y7yrypy.jpguva9egug.jpg8y7aje4a.jpgpaqy2yzy.jpgperede7y.jpg

Dash is out, brake booster is out, steering column is out, tail lights are out.

Still need to get the heater core.

Finally down to just a shell, going to make a trip to steel mart soon and get the floors patched. Then order the roll cage next month.

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The dash will go back after I add some tubing for structural integrity.

 

John you know Mike and I aren't as meticulous as you are, we'll just remember where everything went right? ok there isn't a chance I'll rememer and we definitely didn't label them. Most everything in the dash however will not be going back. I'll be making a custom gauge cluster with lots of aircraft style switches, because I can !

 

Snap, this car will be driving and painted by the end of the summer

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Do work!!  Looking good and it is good to see it being done the right way.

 

Thank you!

 

I don't know about "done the right way" but it's going to get done and it's going to be obscenely fun

It seems you aren't bandaidin' the car. You're getting in there and addressing the issue. That's done the right way in my book!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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