KaiserRolls Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Only thing I'm nervous about is I have an aftermarket core support (my original one was kinda twisted and rusty) the aftermarket China ones work well enough, they are just quite thin and bendy. I think it should work because the red46 plate includes some hardware (drilling required) which includes a plate to sandwich the core support. Should be fine unless I go bounce off some rocks out in moab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 6 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said: Only thing I'm nervous about is I have an aftermarket core support (my original one was kinda twisted and rusty) the aftermarket China ones work well enough, they are just quite thin and bendy. I think it should work because the red46 plate includes some hardware (drilling required) which includes a plate to sandwich the core support. Should be fine unless I go bounce off some rocks out in moab You could always cut the core support open and stick a piece of square tube in there. Wait, e30's aren't supposed to go to Moab? I better cancel my trip..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Only thing I'm nervous about is I have an aftermarket core support (my original one was kinda twisted and rusty) the aftermarket China ones work well enough, they are just quite thin and bendy. I think it should work because the red46 plate includes some hardware (drilling required) which includes a plate to sandwich the core support. Should be fine unless I go bounce off some rocks out in moab You could always cut the core support open and stick a piece of square tube in there. Wait, e30's aren't supposed to go to Moab? I better cancel my trip..... We will see if the square tube is needed. For my uses, I doubt it - other end attaches to steering rack bolts. I guess if I hit something hard enough I'd rather tweak the core support vs the subframe/steering rack components Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 you could copy/get the hoop from the 'severe duty skid plates' from the guy on e30tech. i hit some big shit and no frame/steering rack damage with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I'm not going crazy low or anything. This is just more of a precaution. The red46 plates are surprisingly beefy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Steering rack back together with new lemforder shizzzz. Got the "alignment" (outer length) as close as I could. But my first stop is going to be to the alignment rack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Got tired and went inside. This is all the farther I made it. Bought new axle nuts. Promptly lost new axle nuts. Going to re use the old ones because there's nothing wrong with them, stupid shit like that frustrates me "Hey my new parts showed up" "hey I already misplaced them" they didn't even make it out of the bag they were shipped in :/ I hate my brain sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Oh I also broke the cv boot clamp, so I'll need a new one of those as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 That looks like a new axle nut it the last shot and it is surely out of its bag... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 That's the old one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 What tool did you use for the dust boot clamps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 What tool did you use for the dust boot clamps? For the steering rack? My hands. When I take it to get it aligned I'll have them tighten up those clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Zip ties ftw!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 So the lock plates I have are not the right ones, even tho the PN is for an 88 e30. New on left, old on right. The new ones only slide like halfway into the bore. After talking with Blunttech for a bit - I'm going to make garbage art with the lock plates & put the nuts on with some loctite and torque them Lock plates not fitting + losing my nuts made for an annoying night working on this junk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 looks like you have the right ones. the lock plates go on AFTER the nut. clean out the bore best you can, then tap/pound them into the into the bore over top of the nut until they deform around the nut. (hex nut into a circle hole) should be tight, that's the point! they are destroyed when you remove them as you have to pry them out, so make sure everything is torqued down and good to go before tapping them into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I have read 50/50 that they go on before and after. If they went on before, it would make sense to bend the tabs around the nut. If they go on after I'm literally going to take a socket and beat the shit out of them, kind of defeating the locking purpose? When I originally removed my axle nuts the lock plates were on the back side of the nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 11 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said: I have read 50/50 that they go on before and after. If they went on before, it would make sense to bend the tabs around the nut. If they go on after I'm literally going to take a socket and beat the shit out of them, kind of defeating the locking purpose? When I originally removed my axle nuts the lock plates were on the back side of the nut no, beating them into place is what is locking them. the three tabs on the outside of the plate hold the plate from spinning in the hub, the center part which you deform around the hex nut hold the nut from spinning. the pressure from beating them in holds them in their place. they aren't a lock washer/crush washer like you are thinking that goes under the nut. there is are no ridges or pressure that would help hold the axle nut in place. it would be like a regular old washer. when you removed the original ones, they were either corroded/fell apart to where it looked like they were behind or someone installed them wrong. from your picture it looks like they had fallen apart. ClassE 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 How would they lock if they were behind the nut? The three outer notches hold the lock plate in place, then you push (beat) the flat surface of the "washer" to conform it to the out profile of the hex. That provides a lock so the nut cannot move. If it was behind the nut it is just a washer that cannot spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I have always done them under the axle nut like shown in the picture. As you tighten the axle nut the lock plate crushes down and prevents the corners of the axle nut from rotating past them until you pry them open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Whoever did mine did them wrong then. Because the lock plate was definitely behind the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I will gladly beat the shit out of them from pure frustration tonight Makes sense to put them on after to bend them to the shape of the hex though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 21 minutes ago, Snap said: I have always done them under the axle nut like shown in the picture. As you tighten the axle nut the lock plate crushes down and prevents the corners of the axle nut from rotating past them until you pry them open you are smoking crack that picture clearly shows the lock plate on top of the nut. how does a flat plate crush down? the back of the axle nut is round, not hex. 18 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said: I will gladly beat the shit out of them from pure frustration tonight Makes sense to put them on after to bend them to the shape of the hex though you shouldnt be torquing your axle nuts down without the subframe installed and the weight of the car on the wheels/hub IIRC. i don't know if it would even be possible, they get torqued to 180ft/lbs or something, you will have to hold the axle somehow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Thanks for the info Dan. I guess I'll have to wait to beat the shit out of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 I have always done them under the axle nut like shown in the picture. As you tighten the axle nut the lock plate crushes down and prevents the corners of the axle nut from rotating past them until you pry them open you are smoking crack that picture clearly shows the lock plate on top of the nut. how does a flat plate crush down? the back of the axle nut is round, not hex. I will gladly beat the shit out of them from pure frustration tonight Makes sense to put them on after to bend them to the shape of the hex though you shouldnt be torquing your axle nuts down without the subframe installed and the weight of the car on the wheels/hub IIRC. i don't know if it would even be possible, they get torqued to 180ft/lbs or something, you will have to hold the axle somehow... I will fight this one to the death. it may have been 4 years ago but im pretty sure you Ben and Mitch are Bushelmasters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyhundley Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Kaiser Rules Andy Drools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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