m42b32 Posted April 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2017 On 4/21/2017 at 11:06 AM, Earl said: Plus you can always drop the subframe out with the engine attached=) When did you want me to come out and help do your rear wheel bearings? I'm thinking I am going to leave the wheel bearings till after the picnic/whenever I get it out on the road, since they seem to spin smoothly by hand so I'm hoping they have some life left. There's just so much to do I am trying to stick to the essentials for right now. I'll definitely hit you up when it's time though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted April 23, 2017 Report Share Posted April 23, 2017 Sounds good=) m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted April 23, 2017 Report Share Posted April 23, 2017 If you arent there on the 20th im gonna go all Liam Neeson on you m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Spent both Saturday and Sunday on the car: Finished seam sealing and priming, then started the front end assembly: I spent some time working the deformation in the cowl around the pass. side wiper mount back into shape. Its far from perfect but I got it close enough to put in a new bushing (old ones turned to dust) and have it seat. Replaced the driver's side bushing too, and got everything all buttoned up minus the wiper arm caps that were destroyed in the accident. Trailing arm sway bar mount reinforcements welded in, also repaired the driver's side mount as it had sheared off. I had a washer that was the correct thickness so I cut it in half and used it to replace the missing metal. Most of the strength comes from the reinforcement plates so it should hold up just fine. I also spent a ton of time wire-wheeling the subframe, both trailing arms, and a bunch of random brackets to prep for KBS coating and got the first coat applied to everything. I'm hoping to start re-assembly before the end of the week. Other notable things: - Driveshaft back in - Passenger side engine components reinstalled (coils/plastics/etc) - Zionsville fan shroud cleaned and primed, expansion tank flushed out and clean - Driver's seatbelt removed, but the replacement won't work as it is from an early model so I'll have to steal one from either the parts car or the sedan I I'm picking up this week - Tires ordered, 205/50/16's all around, should be getting them mounted/balanced within the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Making more progress! Finished repairing/rewrapping sections of the wiring harness Started final assembly of the front end! I got the valence, bumper, fenders, fender liners, headlights, and grille pieces properly aligned and mounted for good! I also started re-assembly of the rear suspension. I am waiting on a diff gasket and a few random odds and ends but I should have them before the weekend. I left the dust shields alone, I'll refinish them when I get to the rear wheel bearings as I'll be able to remove them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Solid=) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Making progress but forgot to take pictures of a lot of things... Diff cover bolted back on and stud kit installed, just need to swap over the poly bushing and bolt it to the subframe. Its got minimal rust so for now I'm just not going to paint it. Connecting the steering column on an airbag car to the Z3 rack (with the engine still in the car) is a massive PITA and took way longer than I expected. I tried to get away with not modifying the firewall and just notching the boot holder plate thing since there was next to zero access, but there is no way to get them to line up and still have the rack in the rear set of mounting holes. I ended up removing the lower half of the column so I could notch the firewall about 1/4" with a rasp bit on a drill, and fabricating a new plate to hold the column boot. Finally got everything connected with no binding or rubbing. I also got the hood mounted and aligned. I spent quite a bit of time with the adjustment but I got it good enough for for the 20 footer that it is. Still some minor tweaking needed to be perfect but for now this is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Do you mean stud kit as in for the hubs or stud kit for the diff mounting bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 33 minutes ago, Earl said: Do you mean stud kit as in for the hubs or stud kit for the diff mounting bolts? Studs to replace the diff mounting bolts, though I am also going to be running a stud conversion for the hubs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 15 minutes ago, m42b32 said: Studs to replace the diff mounting bolts, though I am also going to be running a stud conversion for the hubs too. Might want to wait on hub studs until we do the wheel bearings=) m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Made more progress over the last two days. Random things: - Made a new alternator ground wire and got the alternator reinstalled - Half done putting the power steering back together - Front sway bar reinstalled with new bushings (what a PITA) - New tires mounted on the Weds, 205/50/16 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 (Rebranded Bridgestone Potenza RE003 from Europe, just started being offered here this year) Front brakes installed (minus lines) with new blank rotors and Stoptech sport pads Went to test fit a wheel.....and the caliper interferes with the face pretty significantly. I am going to use some washers to measure how little spacer I can get away with and still clear the brakes. I was hoping to not have to push the wheels out any further, if tire fitment becomes an issue after the spacers I can remove the drop hats and install the fixed camber plates I have sitting around. Also got halfway through installing the UUC rear sway bar. Fit isn't very good, I shouldn't have to be modifying brand new brackets and hardware to get this to bolt up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Rear sway bar install sucks regardless of brand. That is all. The only consolation is making fun of the pencil thin stock bar andyhundley, KaiserRolls, m42b32 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Installing swaybars is always a chore=/ Good progress though m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyhundley Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 The IE rear sway bar I put on actually went on pretty easy but I wasn't too crazy about drilling holes in my car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Earl and m42b32 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 I used turner Motorsport mounts. They should just include instructions on how to link swear words into the most effective anger relief. It went on fairly easy tho. Just annoying trying to fumble around on your back and drill and install shit with poly grease sticking to everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Turner mounts are the easy part. Get a long drill bit extension to help set the pilot holes from under the car. If the entire rear subframe, driveline etc is in place threading the bar into position is the real pain--evil puzzle. Hint: thread in from the passenger side and make sure the bar is oriented in the correct way before you start so you don't have to redo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Huge progress today: Rear suspension is in. Driveshaft is in. Heat shields, exhaust midsection, and front half of the Stromung catback are in. Also worked on the radiator setup more. Got the zionsville fan shroud and e36 expansion tank installed. Had to flip the m42 lower hose around to clear the expansion tank outlet but once that was done it fits really well. Fit the euro plate filler: Other things accomplished today: - New drivers seatbelt installed - Reinstalled lower dash panels - measured for front wheel spacers Getting closer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 hot sauce! collector plate looks great m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Niceeeeeeeeeeee!!! m42b32 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Can you measure the expansion tank for me? Height, width, and thickness? Trying to figure out if I can fit something like that in my car. Car is looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 More progress on Sunday but forgot to take pictures... - Rear ABS sensor holes plugged and sealed - Lower license plate holes plugged and sealed behind plate filler - All handbrake parts reinstalled, still need to adjust - Found a brass adapter (3/4" to 5/8") that connected the E30 expansion tank hose to the e30 m42 expansion tank hose and got that spliced/routed - Started wiring for SPAL fan, going to have it always on with ignition for now. Wiring to temp switch and manual override in the cabin later. - Replaced drivers door interior handle and got the door reassembled. Old one came out in 7 pieces... all my doors and locks work again! - Rear rotors are used (but appear to be nearly new) so I wire wheeled and painted the hats, cleaned the rust from the friction surfaces - Installed a new battery as the old one was so dead it might as well have not even been connected I'm hoping to have it on the road a few days before the picnic to work out any major issues and have some time to clean it really well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 16 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said: Can you measure the expansion tank for me? Height, width, and thickness? Trying to figure out if I can fit something like that in my car. Car is looking good! Sure! I will be there again tonight so I will take some measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 What'd you use to plug the ABS sensor holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 2 minutes ago, Earl said: What'd you use to plug the ABS sensor holes? I found that a 3/4" plug fits really well, I used a metal plug like this one: installed it from the underside with silicone (cleaned off the excess), and then folded the ears flat on the back side to lock it in place. Looks really clean from underneath, other side is covered by the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Similar plugs also work as an option for sealing up floorboard drain plug holes when OEM rubber/plastic plugs not handy. Never thought to install from the underside though, nice idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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