m42b32 Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 They're probably worried about pulling the bolts through the mounts, since there isn't a washer or anything between the bolt heads and the plastic. I tightened mine down to "good that shouldn't go anywhere"ft*lbs and I definitely pulled the bolt further into the mount a little bit. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 Ive had some really stubborn motors in my days. I would say dont be afraid to shake the F out of that motor and see if they wiggle down in there. Make sure all of your bolts are loose first; ie; mounts top and bottom, and brackets that mount to the motor. Make sure there is enough threads in, but loose enough that everything moves. Dont be afraid to put your purse down and use your hands. Theres a few threads on other forums complaining of the same issue. 90% of the answers are shake N bake. GunMetalGrey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted September 27, 2018 Report Share Posted September 27, 2018 Sorry for late reply but you are the first to put a m5x motor in. We replaced the original M20 when that blew up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted October 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2018 Haven't done anything with the car for almost a week now, engine is just hanging in the bay not mounted. Gotta try to get the motor mounts to work. Would the E34 M5 mounts be any more "forgiving" when it comes to mounting? I have to figure out if I want to keep the car in the garage so I can work on it over the winter or move it to a storage unit. If I keep it in the garage, then the daily has to sit outside. Not sure how much motivation I'll have when it's January... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted October 3, 2018 Report Share Posted October 3, 2018 Better think fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted October 4, 2018 Report Share Posted October 4, 2018 The E28 mounts are cheap and work just fine. If you want to try to get a rip in before winter I would order a set and toss em in. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted October 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2018 20 hours ago, Jdesign said: Better think fast 2 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said: The E28 mounts are cheap and work just fine. If you want to try to get a rip in before winter I would order a set and toss em in. I don’t anticipate driving the car this year. But moving the car if I decided to store it somewhere would be easier if the motor and trans were in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattY Posted October 6, 2018 Report Share Posted October 6, 2018 Chris and I realized we have a set of brand new 24v revshift poly mounts from the full kit we bought last year, normally they're like $130 but I'd let them go for $90 if you're interested. Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted October 6, 2018 Report Share Posted October 6, 2018 11 hours ago, MattY said: Chris and I realized we have a set of brand new 24v revshift poly mounts from the full kit we bought last year, normally they're like $130 but I'd let them go for $90 if you're interested. Sounds more like you guys had a plan all along.... MattY 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattY Posted October 6, 2018 Report Share Posted October 6, 2018 1 hour ago, Jdesign said: Sounds more like you guys had a plan all along.... lol, in our defense they were locked away in my trunk for 6 months and totally forgotten about Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 SteelBlue, AsparagusMike, ChrisO and 4 others 4 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 i was really hoping the pic after the magician was going to have poorly photoshopped bunny, and no engine still. also, i spy a mini keg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 And for my next act ; "____________________" - @GunMetalGrey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 11 minutes ago, straight6pwr said: also, i spy a mini keg Yeah that's my spare bolt bin, maybe someday it will become something cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m42b32 Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Did you ever get the condor mounts to sit flat or did you just crank down on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 4 minutes ago, m42b32 said: Did you ever get the condor mounts to sit flat or did you just crank down on them? I used a different set of condor ones that I had laying around. I think there was issues with header clearance that may not have been noticed before, as the headers are up against the body. This would certainly cause some issues with motor mounts not wanting to sit quite right. m42b32, Jdesign and SteelBlue 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HipMF Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 Do a burnout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 30 minutes ago, HipMF said: Do a burnout. Gimme a few days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted October 22, 2018 Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 1 hour ago, GunMetalGrey said: Gimme a few days hours Fixed that for you. Better hurry up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Not technically first start. @GunMetalGrey working magic to @HipMF's ominous tones music patsbimmer1, ChrisO, HipMF and 2 others 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HipMF Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 1 hour ago, GunMetalGrey said: Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it. Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunMetalGrey Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 5 minutes ago, HipMF said: Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft. Whole bearing is intact yet. Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face. May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HipMF Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 57 minutes ago, GunMetalGrey said: Whole bearing is intact yet. Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face. May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut. You can get tight to the sholder if you cut a spiral. Or just take it to a shop and let them eff it up so you don't have to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 maybe stating the obvious here, but have you tried heat? i'd get that bearing red hot the 3 CSBs (e34 and e30) i've pulled in the last few years came off with a 3-jaw/impact gun second idea = load up a 3 jaw puller to near the braking point then rap the bearing with as much force as you can to see if the strike pops it loose. autozone/advance auto have some pretty hefty 3-jaws you can rent. hell just put the bearing against a steel vise or concrete and hit it to try and 'oval' it a bit. i can't see it hurting the steel spindle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.