Earl Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 I'm not saying it's flimsy like a noodle but it definitely has more give to it than any of the Momo's I've had, and my Italvolanti. For the price Scott charges for Renown wheels they should be from a better source than what I've come to find out. For almost half of his cost you can get the exact same wheel that just has a different name on it. At the price point that those are sold for, it makes for a decent budget wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 59 minutes ago, Earl said: I'm not saying it's flimsy like a noodle but it definitely has more give to it than any of the Momo's I've had, and my Italvolanti. For the price Scott charges for Renown wheels they should be from a better source than what I've come to find out. For almost half of his cost you can get the exact same wheel that just has a different name on it. At the price point that those are sold for, it makes for a decent budget wheel. if those ebay wheels are the same thing, that'd be a great deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 The Viilante Leggera is the 130r if you wanted to find them Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted July 6, 2018 Report Share Posted July 6, 2018 FWIW, VDO does make the appropriate metric threaded sensors jc43089 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted July 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2018 On 7/5/2018 at 10:27 AM, Earl said: The Viilante Leggera is the 130r if you wanted to find them Mike Thank you for this! But, I think for now tell I can do some more research and make up my mind I'll be running with the original steering wheel. On 7/3/2018 at 8:49 AM, jc43089 said: The threads in the head for the temp sensor are not NPT. It is an M14x1.5 mm straight thread. I don't know what the VDO sensor is but it should not be just cranked in there. The head does not have tapered threads and should seal with a crush washer like the factory sensor, it will not seal otherwise. I have an Autometer gauge and the sender is 1/8" NPT and I bought an adapter from 1/8 NPT to M14x1.5. Just so there's no confusion, the threads are actually a M12 x 1.5. The adapters I received yesterday did not come with that size threads (should have double checked before ordering). However, I did get the right one ordered from Auto Meter that should be here tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted July 6, 2018 Report Share Posted July 6, 2018 What gauge and sensor did you end up buying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 22 minutes ago, KaiserRolls said: What gauge and sensor did you end up buying? Gauge is a vdo 310105 Sending unit is a vdo 323900 (0-250 degree) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelBlue Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 This thread makes me feel bad about my attempt at this swap. Good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 On 7/6/2018 at 4:29 PM, AsparagusMike said: Thank you for this! But, I think for now tell I can do some more research and make up my mind I'll be running with the original steering wheel. Just so there's no confusion, the threads are actually a M12 x 1.5. The adapters I received yesterday did not come with that size threads (should have double checked before ordering). However, I did get the right one ordered from Auto Meter that should be here tomorrow. Are you installing it where the TB heater nipple came from? I thought that was M12x1.5 and the sensors whether you have 1 or 2 are M14x1.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted July 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 7 hours ago, jc43089 said: Are you installing it where the TB heater nipple came from? I thought that was M12x1.5 and the sensors whether you have 1 or 2 are M14x1.5. All the threaded holes there are gonna be a M12 x 1.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted July 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Alright, I got me a problem. Got everything thrown back together on the motor. Went to crank it over, nothin. No crank just a couple clicks from the abs unit and a humming noise from the IAC valve. So far I have been able to eliminate the starter and battery from the list of suspects. Reason for this is because I pulled all the wires off the starter solenoid, pulled the battery from the car and hooked up jumper cables straight to the starter and grounded to the housing. Used the old screwdriver trick and was able to get the starter to spin the engine no problem. After confirming this I threw everything back together. Went ahead and pulled the engine ground off and cleaned both sides to confirm a good clean ground as well as all the wires hooked on to the battery cable mounting block in the engine bay and gave it another try, nothin. Checked power coming to the starter from the main battery cable, got a good constant +12 volts. Checked power coming to the small post from the ignition wire (black and yellow) while I had a friend turn the key over, +12 volts. Flipped the relays around between the O2, fuel pump, and starter, nothin. I'm stumped guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Here is a link to the ETM. I assume most of the stuff is E30 wiring for the starter anyway. Here is a screenshot, there is no starter relay, if the black/yellow wire at the starter is getting 12V when the key is turned to the start position then there is a bad ground somewhere. http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1991 BMW 318i - 318is - 318ic Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 1) was the car an automatic 2) you started it with the key and same wiring configuration before, correct? the couple times i couldnt get my car to crank I realized I had the C101 adapter disconnected... oops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 did you whisper some sweet nothings in her ear before just sticking the key in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted July 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 4 hours ago, jc43089 said: Here is a link to the ETM. I assume most of the stuff is E30 wiring for the starter anyway. Here is a screenshot, there is no starter relay, if the black/yellow wire at the starter is getting 12V when the key is turned to the start position then there is a bad ground somewhere. http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1991 BMW 318i - 318is - 318ic Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf Thank you for this ^ I'll go ahead and check every ground on the car after work to confirm good clean connections. 2 hours ago, snap said: 1) was the car an automatic 2) you started it with the key and same wiring configuration before, correct? the couple times i couldnt get my car to crank I realized I had the C101 adapter disconnected... oops 1) The car was originally a manual. 2) I never changed any of the wiring up from the last time it ran. Although, nothing was hooked up through the dash for wiring when I started it the first time. Don't know why that would affect it from cranking over though. C101 connector is hooked up and good to go lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Went through and inspected and cleaned every ground location, turned the key over... nofin. pulled and tested each of the relays, they are all good. couple pics of the grounds and wires I checked. I also checked the ground right next to the abs unit and the ground underneath the dash next to the steering colum Not really sure what to do now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Try jumpering pins 11 and 14 on the diagnostic connector with a piece of wire. Remember to have the car in neutral and the ignition switched on. Also note if pins 11 and 14 exist in tge connector, they may be bare (this is fine, just explains why jumpering them wouldnt work) also try jiggling the key as you try cranking to jostle the ignition switch a little bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Does it crank if you use a jumper from the large red wire on the starter to the black/yellow wire? If it does then you know the grounds are all good. If it doesn't then there is a power or ground problem because you said the starter did work when you hooked power directly to it Next test would be to set your meter to DC volts and put one lead on a body ground and one on the engine block while someone attempts to crank. If you see voltage it means that something isn't grounded, it could be the starter body to the transmission if things are painted, or the engine block to the mount arm that has the ground strap on it. AsparagusMike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 try listing every bit of work you've done since the car was last started. this may narrow down what has changed, and may be causing the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 4 hours ago, snap said: Try jumpering pins 11 and 14 on the diagnostic connector with a piece of wire. Remember to have the car in neutral and the ignition switched on. Also note if pins 11 and 14 exist in tge connector, they may be bare (this is fine, just explains why jumpering them wouldnt work) also try jiggling the key as you try cranking to jostle the ignition switch a little bit My vote is ignition switch as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 An earlier post he said he got 12V on the black/yellow wire at the starter, that comes from the ignition switch so it would seem to be working. KaiserRolls 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 3 hours ago, jc43089 said: Does it crank if you use a jumper from the large red wire on the starter to the black/yellow wire? If it does then you know the grounds are all good. If it doesn't then there is a power or ground problem because you said the starter did work when you hooked power directly to it Next test would be to set your meter to DC volts and put one lead on a body ground and one on the engine block while someone attempts to crank. If you see voltage it means that something isn't grounded, it could be the starter body to the transmission if things are painted, or the engine block to the mount arm that has the ground strap on it. This. If its not cranking, the starter is bad and / or isnt getting power/signal . What is the voltage output at the starter when its OFF/START/RUN positions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris3 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Just to rule it out is the fusible link blown? Follow the small wire off the positive battery terminal, it's wrapped so you can't do a simple visible check. If blown no power to the main relay and ecu. Any aftermarket alarm immobilizer or an issue with the OBC? Some other ideas http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 If the fusible link is blown it will still crank. The ECU will be dead preventing a start though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AsparagusMike Posted July 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 So once I got over to the shop later today I thought over what yall said and went back to start assessing the possibility of a bad ground issue as @jc43089 stated. I went over to the other garage and snagged the jumper cables from the shelf, hooked one clamp to the alternator mounting bracket and the other side to the front subframe mounting bolt. Hopped in the car... turned the key over to start and I was suddenly welcomed with the sweet sweet sound of the starter beginning to crank, hallelujah!!! Jumped the fuel relay to get some fuel up to the fuel rail, hopped back in the car and she came to life once again. This is where it gets very odd though. After I ran the motor for a few seconds I shut it off, pulled the jumper cables off and the car started right back up again. Wait, what? Did it just need some kind of encouragement? I shut the car off and started it 5 different times tonight with no issues. I suppose I will leave everything the way it is and further asses the problem if it decides to return. Thank you to everyone for their helpful feedback! P_Roloff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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