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HipMF

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Sorry to see the hit, but glad you're OK. Rear quarter can be pulled if not too bad and the front fenders surprisingly can be pounded back into shape. Depends on how pretty you want it.

 

If you decide to put in another engine this one is not free but maybe worth a look: http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/4848052512.html

 

This guy is also on R3V and is parting his late model e30 with body parts in black including bumpers: http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/4854955173.html

 

If you decide to walk away and part it I expect that there are enough friendly "vultures" here (me included) to help ease your pain with a little $$$. 

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Thanks for the support guys.

 

I really had my heart set on getting an M42 swapped into the E21 this winter and having a nice driver/fun machine for next summer. "Redneck stepchild" has a nice ring to it though. I'd love to have a beater/rallycross/ice racing/whatever car, but I don't know if I have the time or budget to do both. I guess we'll be playing it by ear from here out. I have another dead M42 in the garage, so if I get the other one, I'll have 3 dead ones to try and make 1 good one and another one to power this thing. Time for plan "F".

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Got the motor torn down last night and took some crappy pics on the way out the door. The top end actually looked great. I didn't inspect them too closely, but the cylinders looked okay too. The bottom end though....

 

The worst damage is on the main journals. The bearings were a little melty, which I'm pretty sure is not desirable. Three of them I had to pry at a little to get the two halves to separate. The last bearing at the flywheel end was actually completely fused together on one side, but I think I was able to get them all off without doing any more damage.

 

I'm taking some stuff in today to get a professional diagnosis.

 

IMG_20150122_025447850_zps4464124d.jpg

 

IMG_20150122_025436674_zps027db9b7.jpg

 

IMG_20150122_025429523_zpsf1e3bde8.jpg

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Yeah, I'm glad that the head is okay. My other one is pretty bad.

 

My visit to Appleton Crankshaft didn't go that well. It turns out the crank can probably be saved. The bad news is that the block is "not fixable". The main caps must have warped, because they don't fit in the block like they should. He said the big ends of the rods are probably bad, but I'll have to check them.

 

I've never had a machinist tell me that something was straight up " not fixable" before. For some reason I found that amusing.

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  • 5 weeks later...

E21 is getting a valve quantity upgrade. 38% moe powah! Just doing a test fit to see how this is going to work. I have 3 engines now. One is toast and the other two need a rebuild. I was thinking of getting some low compression pistons made and going turbo right away, but now I'm thinking it will be a stock rebuild. It changes from one day to the next...

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That was my original plan, but I wasn't planning on having to do a rebuild right away. Also considering skipping the turbo and keeping it NA. I really like the sound of ITBs... Superchargers are cool too though... Lots of ideas, but for now I should really just focus on getting it in the car and running.

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I believe they're the same, but I haven't really looked into it yet. I've heard of people buying 24v turbo manifolds and chopping them down.

 

At the moment I'm leaning towards a NA build, but I haven't even gotten the block to the machine shop or dropped the subframe yet so it's a long way off.

 

Induction noise is a beautiful thing:

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You're going to machine those? Looks like a difficult part. Damn kids and your fancy computerized equipment!

 

Just kidding. Honestly though I have some kind of pathologically masochistic DIY-or-die complex. I'll probably just go after a piece of flat stock with a hacksaw, some big drill bits and a file.

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Honestly man, I guarantee you could learn how to draw that up, and machine it within a weekend. No one taught me how to draw 3d, so I just mess around with it at work until, well, something works. 

The shop is in Green Lake, if you are ever interested in checking it out, or building your own parts, I have keys to the place and can come here 24/7. Only 1 shift 7-330. 


Transition piece is much short. So I think around 2" alum billet flange for the transition is what I need. And go to larger tubing. 

Port has a perimeter around 6" and 1.75 ID is 5.5 about so I need larger runners. 2" ID will get me ~6.3" which is just slightly larger(which is assume is what I want) 

Dammit I need to go to school for engineering already..... 

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