jc43089 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Oreilly's rents out pickle forks and ball joint removers for free. Just pay for it when you get it and get the full amount back when you return it. That's about the only way to get them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasnt m3 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Pickle forks damage the ball joint boots very easily. Hit the ear on the hub that the ball joint goes through from the side with a BFH, should pop out. mkoepp and DrLeadFoot 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 ^ This, only use a pickle fork if you are not planning to reuse the joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I called it a night at that point last night. I'll have a go at it again tonight after work.It's odd pulling this apart after working on VWs for so long - similar of course but not knowing the nut sizes off the top of my head and trying to "learn the car" makes it a slower process then I'm used to. Tonight is break the ball joint and tie tod ends loose and yank front suspension.... Then heading to rear.Tracking info shows rims are scheduled to arrive Friday..... I've got a lot of work to do to get the front coils welded up and toe/camber adjustments welded in Saturday and everything re-installed to test fit fitment.If Oshkosh area peeps are looking for something to do nights this week or Saturday afternoon I'd love the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 just on the topic of balljoint separators they have these at harbor freight (or for rent at o'reilly) best tool for ball joint separation. If you run into any snags with the rear subframe dont hesitate to PM/call.You should be able to manage, but it can be a little bit puzzling the first time if you dont "know the car" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. hahahahaha. Any time before 8 feel free to call Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 $400 ish from Condor - quality seems great. They should be in early next week - I'll report back once they're in! Awesome, let us know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 This is the "loose wire" I found in the drivers well: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Yep brake pad wear sensor, that thing at the end clips into the little notch in the pad. That one is probably junk, they need replacement when putting in new pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasnt m3 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 The sensor only needs to be replaced if it is worn through. As the pad gets thin, the sensor wears through, breaking the wire running through it, illuminating the light. Yours is most definitely junk by the looks of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Remove the wear sensors and pop the bulb out of the dash=) Save big money! KaiserRolls and jc43089 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasnt m3 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Or just connect the two wires... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Oh yeah....you told me to do that too. Looks like I found something to do Saturday=) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Fronts are out! Now on to the rear... jc43089 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 My son Bennett thought he'd "help". jc43089 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 All I should have to do tomorrow to drop subframe is undo brake lines and unbolt subframe/diff bolt! I'm so happy with the underside of this car - I'm having a hard time finding any real "rust" of any kind (heck hardly any speckle rust or ugly anything!). Obviously filthy - but southern cars are definitely the way to go!!!Any help in ID'ing the existing drop springs - and a ballpark of what they're worth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Hmm...went back to look at pics of car height on first page... If the price is right I might want them for my vert, I'd like a little drop but definitely not slammed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasnt m3 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 H&R sport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Fitment check. Going to get hubs welded Saturday AM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 So to pull the front dust shields off - you have to pull the front hubs apart?!? WTF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 That is correct, I pulled mine off when disassembling hubs, and will not be putting new ones on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Damnit.... We'll looks like they stay then until it's time to yank the hubs apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Retrieving wheels from FedEx in 9 hours and 20 minutes...... Not that I'm counting. jc43089 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassE Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Good day so far!Picked up wheels from FedEx!Front coils are all welded up and paint is drying right now. Hoping to have the front back together in acouple hours to do some test fitting! DrLeadFoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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