332ti, a compact story.

[alexw]

In two years of this sites existence I've had my fair share of BMW's. An E30 M3, 325iX, 318is and a Cooper S (wife's car). As of yesterday I sold my clean slicktop 318is to a forum member in MN. Him and a buddy made a 6 hour drive and took my E30 away. I was left with no car, just my wife's new to her, 07 Mini Cooper S. I intended on an "upgrade" from the E30. I was looking for a E36 M3 to fool around with. I found many, most with high miles and questionable modifications. I toyed with another E30 or an E28 and perhaps undertaking a swap. I then came full circle. The first BMW I really got into was the 318ti. I'm not overly certain why or how I first came to like the 318ti, but one thing was for sure, I'd have to do a swap. I literally have drawings from high school (almost 14 years ago when I was a freshman) of my ideas... I even bought a swap manual from "J!m" on 318ti.org that I recently found. That's before stuff was all over the Internet and the info was hard to find.

So with a few grand in cash in hand, I headed to Craigslist. I found several 318ti's locally, most which we're in piss poor shape. One great thing about living in Kenosha is that I'm smack dab in between two large cities, lots of options for car buying... Also I typically get Milwaukee and Chicago results in my racine.craigslist.org results. I happened to find an ad for a 318ti in Appleton which had an "M conversion". Car was listed for $4,995, here's the original link, http://appleton.craigslist.org/cto/4064087670.html

1997 BMW 318ti with 3.2L M3 engine. Only 65,000 miles on engine. Body in excellent condition, 5 speed, moon roof, BBS 17" wheels, M3 front brakes, new rear brakes, very good tires. The only thing it needs is rear trailing arm bushings / rear sub frame bushings. Please email if interested.

This "email if interested.", would end up causing me to lose my mind. I naturally sent him an email. No response. Sent another, no response. I then contacted locals to try and get ahold of him and they would get responses but I wouldn't! What gives! I sent another email, no luck! Eventually two members here contacted him and one member got a personal email address and another got a cell number. Turns out he just wasn't getting my emails, I still don't know why. I told him I was interested and we scheduled a meeting up in Appleton.

I took the day off and my wife, small offspring and I made the 2 1/2 hour trip to Appleton. I met with the owner, an older gentalman who said he just loves this car. He's only selling to make room for a different car. He told me he found this car for sale at Road America, and snatched it up. He has original documentation of the swap which looks to have been completed when the 318ti had about 36,000 miles. The vehicle has the M3's tach which was original to the engine and shows 65,000 miles. So this is a realitivly low mileage car and swap.

As stated in his for sale ad, he believes the trailing arm and or subframe bushings need to be repaired. Best I can describe it is wheel hop during HARD acceleration in lower gears, or high torque load. Needless to say, I bought the car for his asking price which I felt was more than fair. I will have to investigate further on the wheel hop issue.

Initial "issues" - may or may not bother fixing...

- Wheel Hop

- Trailing Arm / Subframe bushings? Axels?

- Airbag light is on

- Check engine light on

- Needs brake pad wear sensors

- ABS light on

- MPG doesn't work

- When tank is at full it goes to E then back Full until about 1/8 tank is used?

- No ASC or Traction Control

Body work

- new headlights would be nice

- needs a polish

- potentially remove clear bra from hood and mirrors, showing its age

Eventually

- lower

- need M3 bumper and moldings.

I will update this later on. But I thought I'd post something up. I can't seem to upload photos for whatever reason so, that'll also have to wait. If anyone has ideas on the wheel hop, pass it along.

[Earl]

You know how I feel about this =) The mpg gauge doesnt work because the compact isn't wired for it. Just found the writeup for getting it wired in: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?195537-Working-MPG-gauge-for-318ti-6-cylinder-conversions

 

Also, the fuel gauge issue is most likely the sending unit-as stated below. It is a common issue. You can try resetting your computer to see if it is a glitch which also happens. Make sure you have the radio code in your owners manual before you do that though=P Another link for you: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3131

 

Edit: You sent me this one last night so I figured I would let everyone get a taste of what you picked up=)

 

[jc43089]

Congrats, looks like a fun ride.  Fuel sender issue is probably one of them has an open spot in the potentiometer.  When the gauge drops to E pull the plugs off of both senders and check across with an ohmmeter.  One will probably show open.  I believe the senders are wired in series so one being open opens the whole loop.

[B C]

<- Jealous

I would trade you cars. 

[AvusHatesCones]

Wow, looks like you got a great deal! Excited to see what you do with it

[wasnt m3]

Congrats Alex! I have a Peake SRS tool if you'd like to check into that airbag light.

[alexw]

Thanks guys,

 

I'll take you up on that SRS tool too. I'll also be willing to let anyone help diagnose my wheel hop issue if they're coming to the 5er meet.

 

I'm pretty excited, headed to the DMV in a few to register it in a different county. My cluster is lit up like christmas. I'm sure the emissions folk would go to town on it.

[m42b32]

Congrats! Looks like a really sweet car

[alexw]

Thanks again everyone!

I got the car registered today and listed it as being mostly driven in Langlade County, where I have family. That should make me exempt from emissions, shhh...

I sent the previous owner a email today about the wheel hop. I specifically asked if he had changed anything which produced an immediate issue, or if it just randomly started or progressed. Here's what he had to say:

There seem to be multiple issues that can create similar symptoms. It was kind of the same when the flex disc (guibo) in the drive shaft was shot. That got progressively worse until I changed it. Then it was fine. Some time after that, the right rear shock tower / mount broke.(different, very obvious symptom) I fixed that with a reinforcement kit and installed those on both sides. I suspect the shock mount breaking may have caused a weakness in the rear bushings. Then when I started to get the current symptom, I inspected the rear dif mount and it was separating, so I replaced it. That didn’t fix it, next I replaced the center support bearing. That didn’t fix it. That’s when I replaced the drive shaft because the universal joint was not operating smoothly. It hasn’t really progressed.

So, because everything else back there has been changed, I think it’s the rear trailing arm / sub frame bushings. That would have been my next course of action. From what I could see, all the metal on the rear sub-frame and trailing arms looks pretty solid.

[Earl]

From everything he changed, I would assume axles, wheel bearings, or the trailing arm bushings. All of which a little tugging would help you find play and the issue.

[alexw]

I just threw it up on jack stands. I let it run with the wheels free spinning and didn't hear anything. I tugged on the axels and wheels (for bearings) and it all seems solid. Im going to assume its the trailing arm bushings. I figure, I might as well try replacing the subframe and trailing arm bushings and see what happens from there. 

 

IDK if it better describes the issue but-

 

I can drive the car without hearing the hop. I just have to not really lay into it. If you're just do and from work without smashing the throttle, its almost non existent. I can also lay off it and throw it into 3rd and run it all the way out and not feel anything. So what I'm getting at is, it seems to only "hop" when under hard acceleration and torque. I felt no such hop during my trip back home while I was in 5th and 4th, doing 65-90mph sprints.

 

Anyone?

[Ryan...]

In4moarpics

[alexw]

The car is pretty dirty. I'll take some photos tomorrow after I give it a wash.

[straight6pwr]

cant wait to see pictures. 

 

wheel hop on e30/e36ti rear suspension: sloppy/worn out suspension parts.

these cars are prone to it, though, and sometimes with new parts it doesnt go away entirely. 

 

seriously, though, whats the point in spinning your tires in a straight line anyways? buy a muscle car for that.

[alexw]

cant wait to see pictures. 

 

wheel hop on e30/e36ti rear suspension: sloppy/worn out suspension parts.

these cars are prone to it, though, and sometimes with new parts it doesnt go away entirely. 

 

seriously, though, whats the point in spinning your tires in a straight line anyways? buy a muscle car for that.

Well, it pretty much makes the engine useless to have if i cant put the power down. It happens if I turn a corner and gun it, same issue.

 

I'll give rides at the 5er meet, I'm sure we can figure it out. Im guessing you're right, its just going to be a matter of replacing worn bushings.

[straight6pwr]

stickier tires and stiffer shocks can also help with the hop, if all else fails.

[B C]

Possible stupid question: does it have a welded diff?

[alexw]

Earl, AndyHundley and I attempted to fix the issue last night. I suppose the issue is more of a driveshaft "slap". There are some photos somewhere that I may or may not upload but ultimately, we were unsuccessful. 

 

The center support bearing was completely shot. We all were pretty confident that installing a new center support bearing and the tranny mounts I bought would fix the issue. It did not. Here is my quote from the thread on 318ti.org http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?p=354506

 

I had several car savvy (and bmw nuts) ride and drive my vehicle. All signs pointed to a worn center support bearing. I went ahead and ordered OEM center support bearing and transmission mounts. Last night, a few friends got together and worked on my car. We found a completely shot center support bearing. The bearing was still securely on the driveshaft but the rubber around that was completely worn off, so basically the driveshaft was free floating in the center support bearing. 

We felt fairly confident that the new center support bearing would fix the issue, thinking perhaps the previous owner lied or installed it incorrectly. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the driveshaft slap.

Some things to note:
- Driveshaft IS new. Still has stickers on it, it looks very fresh. I've sent an email to the previous owner asking for more details on it, i.e. install date, brand, etc.
- Flexdisk or "Guibo" looks fine
- I put the vehicle on jack stands and put it in gear and accelerated, I did not feel the shake. That being said, I didn't exactly beat on it while I was up there. So take that for what its worth.
- While rotating the driveshaft, I noted only the passenger rear wheel was turning. I have receipts for a Limited Slip but have no idea what one is on there. Is that normal?
- Fairly certain this isn't a rear subframe bushing issue. Under inspection they don't look that bad.
- Engine Mounts look fine. 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[B C]

Its probably a Torsen LSD then. 

[alexw]

Last Saturday with the help of Chris and Andy, we fixed my car. This is a true story you may tell your grandchildren.

Photos and long story to follow.

[KaiserRolls]

Last Saturday with the help of Chris and Andy, we fixed my car. This is a true story you may tell your grandchildren.

Photos and long story to follow.

 

good to hear Alex

[B C]

I hope you found the solution to your drivetrain clunk.   I know you were messing about with the shifter but I am anxiously awaiting storytime

[Rowleym]

I'm pretty sure I have a 3.45lsd for this car. I think it would be quite a decent ratio. 

[RamRod E28]

story time noaw!!!

[alexw]

Finishing a show with the old lady and I'll type up the story and some photos.