B C Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Holy dumb stuff. Ive had one heck of a day and then this guy happened^^ m20s are like family to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patsbimmer1 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Hahaha that was much quicker than I thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Oh go clean the carbon off your valves patsbimmer1, wasnt m3 and mkoepp 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Front end was taken apart last night. Kinda funny how the 15" wheels make accessing the inner fender body screws that much harder haha. If I had 16's on the car I would have had to swap them out working on the ground in the shop. Anyways I'm gonna bend out the core support for now but its eventually need to be replaced if the car ever gets painted. Its torn up on the bottom from a previous accident and in general the whole support is bent inward slightly. I have rust holes on both of the footwells going into the wheel well. This should probably be fixed before everything gets rotted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 So your rust free shell isn't rust free anymore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 No sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 patch it with fiberglass, and make a jon boat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Clutch line, slave and master cylinders ordered and I think I have a lead on a low mileage G260. I got spring fever for driving this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 I got spring fever for driving this. You and me both, sir! Keep up the great work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 S/O to Mike the hippest MF'er for picking up a trans for me at Schmidts/Don's in Hortonville. Little crusty at 205k but should do the job. patsbimmer1 and B C 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 So we didn't get as far as we wanted today, the old trans is still in. I'm currently caught up on the top starter bolt that goes through the bell housing which is the only thing keeping the trans on the motor :/ I ended up giving up on it for the night but came close to accessing the bolt with a wobble extension. Just a quick update for tonight as I need to head to bed. Pics for progress but the shop kinda exploded haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Is that a red neon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Yours should be through bolts with nuts to the starter right? Use a 3/8" box end wrench over the torx head with the engine at the normal height and use a ratchet with extension to turn the nut on the starter side. The wrench will turn until it hits the bell housing or firewall and stop allowing you to loosen the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Maybe that's my issue. I used all the old hardware when I swapped the trans from my last 528e into this car. The starter bolts through the bell housing are 17mm and the nut above the starter on the other side is a 15mm. I'll check the parts diagrams and see what it's supposed to be. @Earl yes that's my roommates bandit stock 4cyl prepped neon. Its finally ready to race this spring so I'll technically be part of a nascar pit crew haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc43089 Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Can you reach it from the engine bay if you lift the trans as high as possible in the tunnel? I have never removed starter bolts from underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 I can get the 17mm with a box wrench. The issue is the 15mm. I'll have to take a picture explain next time I'm at the shop. I thing if I buy a long handle flex head ratchet along with the wobble extension I should be able to break it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 So the old trans is out! Bought a Gearwrench 120XP long handle flex head watched to use in combination with the extension and snap-on wobble ext to get that 15mm around to the nut. Ryan "Speizo" held the 17mm wrench on the other end and it came off! We dropped the trans afterwords and he pulled the clutch while I started on swapping the output flanges. I upgraded to the bigger SETA driveshaft long ago when the driveshaft went out on the old burgundrot since I had one from my first car. Made a thin wall 30mm and got the flange nut off fine from the old trans but I ended up stripping the one on the new trans :/ Fortunately I've been through this before since the same thing happened when I did that swap originally. It was harder to brace the flange since the new trans still had the vibration dampener on so I get to cut through all of that next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 2 Months later.... I ended up never getting the flange off the replacement trans. After swearing so many damn times at the thing and giving up for a month I gave in and bought a replacement trans for my replacement trans Got the flange right off on this one and swapped on the SETA/535i output flange. Went to pour in the royal purple 75W90 I bought and just as I was about finished with the 2nd bottle it all leaked out the output shaft seal "Royal Flush" Ordered up the seals and Redline MTL, as thats preferred fluid of the MyE28 community, but didn't have time to work on the car this weekend. This concludes buying every single component in clutch/trans! Now to throw it all back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Lol, royal flush, how about "Victor Rains". What happens when this all goes in the car? It couldnt possibly drive, could it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Haven't fired the motor for 3 months since it has no exhaust. With the way any of these projects go, at least in my shop, who knows haha. All of these parts are replacing parts I shouldn't have put on the car in the first place but "I wanted to drive it". Throw out bearing was shot, master clutch cylinder leaked and the trans I pulled out of the car makes some funny noises when I spin the shafts so something for sure fell apart inside the trans hence why it ultimately became undriveable. BMWben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMWben Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 All of these parts are replacing parts I shouldn't have put on the car in the first place but "I wanted to drive it".Moral of the story is the 540 isn't being driven till a lot of work and money goes into her... YoungCR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Weekend Update The trans is in! Hiccups included the removing trans seals, starter bolts, although better going in than taking out, and connecting the master cylinder hard line. Cleaned up the back of the trans as best I could. The 3 oil seals were replaced and I managed to eventually get the old ones out with some drilling and creative flathead screwdriver usage. Next time I'll go buy a pick set. Clutch is in, S/O to Andy for the clutch and John for the alignment tool. Old clutch wasn't in too bad of shape but the throwout bearing had seen better days. Unfortunately I forgot to replace the pivot pin as I found it later in a different box. Hopefully that won't be an issue :/ Hard to see but just below the brake booster is where the master cylinder pokes through the firewall. Conveniently the fuel lines and brake lines run in that already tight space too. I ended up unbolting the master to give me more movement and eventually got the hard line threaded on. Because of the right angle just at the end of the line it makes it impossible to feed in through the fire wall. Master mounted, along with the rest of the pedal box reassembled. Bought my first M5 part UUC stainless line. Same price as a new OEM rubber line so why not? Slave must be installed upside down for it to work which also allows for gravity bleeding the clutch line. Is there supposed to be a gap between the slave and bell housing? Forgot to check the old slave but the bell housing studs are on a raised surface which causes this. Where I ended for tonight, Got the shifter in place but don't have things tightened down. I foresee myself having a 3 day weekend with the holiday so I'll have plenty of time to wrap things up, get the front end together the way I want. Goal is to drive her to Lake Mills next Sunday for anyone who wants to join. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted July 18, 2015 Report Share Posted July 18, 2015 just wanted to pipe in and say that yes, the clutch slave has a gap on alot or most of the bmw 5 speeds. it doesnt need to seal for any reason, so it doesnt sit flat against the bell housing. i remember doing the clutch master on my e30, what a freakin nightmare that fitting is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 ^Thanks Dan. So I had the car driving for about a month but then 2 weeks ago it stopped running. Ramsey and I thought it maybe had a bad ignition cap as his 528e had similar symptons. Car ran rough/slight miss on start up but then after idling for a bit it would run fine. So we tried switching the cap and rotor two sundays ago with brand new parts and it didn't change the performance. Car started but ran rough but after a minute I was able to take it up and down the block. After a few more minutes it ran worse than before. Matt and I went to the shop today to drop off some things and I just wanted to swap the cap again to see if it made a difference. It did not so my thinking is that the fuel pump died. I've been basing all my time off the old adage "Your fuel problems are likely in your ignition" but the car would "miss" slightly during shifts and I had a fuel pump die while shifting in my E36. At some point I'll order a fuel pressure gauge to get a proper diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YoungCR Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Swapped in a new bosch fuel pump and filter and no start now as the pump isn't getting power. Wont have time to look at it more u til after the meet sadly. Fuse is good so might be relay but just guesses at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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