SteelBlue

Great exterior/interior color combo

This setup cars fucks

Wibimmers missed connections 

Update! Finally got the new Yokohama Advan V601’s mounted on the e88’s. Finally decided on 255/35 after lots of debating on what size tire to run. 
 
They fit fantastic, have to install new rear bumper brackets that I ordered with more adjustability to widen the rear bumper a tad and I should be good to go. Very happy with the new setup, falling in love with this car again. Probably going to have some stuff resprayed on it in the very near future after a long winter of daily driving. 

Saw this at the Kwik Trip by Appleton North. Very clean, had a Dinan badge on it, not sure the validity of that or what that all entails with an E39.
 

Cars been down since August of last year. Was leaking coolant into the drivers footwell. Believed to be heater core valve. Purchased the valve, heater core, and O rings that should be here end of this week. I don’t want to deal with draining coolant or any of that shit so I’m having the guys at Auto Clinic do it. I also don’t really have anywhere to do the repair at the moment.
 
I did take the interior apart to make it easier for them to do the repair. Now it’s exposed and ready for them to replace.
 
You can see where it appears to have been leaking based on the carpet. It might be the O rings that failed, but I’m just going to replace all of it.

 

Are you still planning to make a copy of that roof with the large window?

Oh shit. Is this glass or some form of plexiglass?
How'd you get the bend?
Oh...is this a shop?

UUC Evo 3 SSK installed. Unfortunately, the DSSR could not be installed as the shift knuckle off the back of the trans was the wrong one, thought my car had the right one, but guess not. Poly bushings where the bitch clips inserts and Turner poly carrier bushing were also installed. Shifter feels super tight, notchy, directional. Was worried the throw was going to be too short for my liking, but this is the perfect amount for my driving style.
 
Only issues are that the shifter in neutral sits at maybe a 10-15 degree tilt towards the passenger side, not a huge deal, but a little annoying. Another thing, and maybe this is me only used to driving cars with factory shifters, is the 1-2 throw feels a little more difficult. If I had to rate the 1-2 throw, it would be maybe 4.5-5 out of 10 in terms of effort needed. Where as the others are more like a 3-3.5, compared to stock which I would say was like a 2-2.5. Only other thing, is that the ZHP weighted knob must not fit the profile of the shifter itself as it has maybe 5 degrees of rotational play in it. It doesn’t feel like it would come off, but it’s a little annoying that it rotates a little, and makes a little bit of clacking when going through the gears.
UUC did not include the six Allen head bolts that connect the collar to the carrier arm, so I bought some Phillips screws of the same pitch. They were a little longer than the ones that would have been included, so they had to be shimmed with some washers so the screws wouldn’t contact the ball the shifter pivots on. My only thought as to why the couple of things might be out of whack.
Overall, very pleased with it, even without the DSSR, it feels extremely tight and directional. For me, this car exceeds at the warm summer evening, back road, sunset country cruise with the radio(Bluetooth speaker in my case) playing some good tunes. Really hard to beat.

Posted in the FB group chat, but was able to score two pretty rare items for a steal on eBay last week. They are in pretty good condition, the dead pedal has a little bit of the paint flaking. I’m not sure if these are painted or powder coated from the factory. 
I don’t know what the proper way to “restore” these would be. Media blasting and then powder coated? Or would it be better to just leave them as is? The valve cover would be a really good candidate for dry ice cleaning.

Posted in the FB group chat, but was able to score two pretty rare items for a steal on eBay last week. They are in pretty good condition, the dead pedal has a little bit of the paint flaking. I’m not sure if these are painted or powder coated from the factory. 
I don’t know what the proper way to “restore” these would be. Media blasting and then powder coated? Or would it be better to just leave them as is? The valve cover would be a really good candidate for dry ice cleaning.

UUC Evo 3 SSK installed. Unfortunately, the DSSR could not be installed as the shift knuckle off the back of the trans was the wrong one, thought my car had the right one, but guess not. Poly bushings where the bitch clips inserts and Turner poly carrier bushing were also installed. Shifter feels super tight, notchy, directional. Was worried the throw was going to be too short for my liking, but this is the perfect amount for my driving style.
 
Only issues are that the shifter in neutral sits at maybe a 10-15 degree tilt towards the passenger side, not a huge deal, but a little annoying. Another thing, and maybe this is me only used to driving cars with factory shifters, is the 1-2 throw feels a little more difficult. If I had to rate the 1-2 throw, it would be maybe 4.5-5 out of 10 in terms of effort needed. Where as the others are more like a 3-3.5, compared to stock which I would say was like a 2-2.5. Only other thing, is that the ZHP weighted knob must not fit the profile of the shifter itself as it has maybe 5 degrees of rotational play in it. It doesn’t feel like it would come off, but it’s a little annoying that it rotates a little, and makes a little bit of clacking when going through the gears.
UUC did not include the six Allen head bolts that connect the collar to the carrier arm, so I bought some Phillips screws of the same pitch. They were a little longer than the ones that would have been included, so they had to be shimmed with some washers so the screws wouldn’t contact the ball the shifter pivots on. My only thought as to why the couple of things might be out of whack.
Overall, very pleased with it, even without the DSSR, it feels extremely tight and directional. For me, this car exceeds at the warm summer evening, back road, sunset country cruise with the radio(Bluetooth speaker in my case) playing some good tunes. Really hard to beat.

To connect the crossovers with the door speakers, they both have to route to the cross over. One way shape or form, some wire has to pass through the door for either the tweeter or the door speaker. I was not about to drill a hole through the molex connector in the door loom(which is how I saw people were doing it). And I don’t want to have a miscellaneous wire hanging in the door. Next time you’re back, you can hook it up and route it for me😁
I am using the tweeters, just have them connected to the factory tweeter harness.
Thank you to @YoungCRfor creating a separate thread for this. What I should have done from the beginning.
I said I would be done with mods, and I kind of lied. Albeit, this one isn’t a new item, but more of a rerouting. I was tired of having my phone cable strewn over my center console area from having to plug into the Sync ports at the front of the console. I also couldn’t ever close this roll top door at the front of the console due to this cable running out of it. The importance of the cable, is that it connects my iPhone to the truck to utilize Apple Car Play. Since this isn’t a 2021, I do not have wireless Car Play and have to have a hard wire connection like a peasant.
The solution? Drill.
Pulled the shifter trim surround off and was able to make some small holes in a couple of places to allow me to snake the iPhone cable through the structure of the center console to allow me to still use the function of the cable, but have it “hidden”. 
 
This took me about 10 minutes, $2 in grommets, and made my center console area way more orderly. Love the result.

To connect the crossovers with the door speakers, they both have to route to the cross over. One way shape or form, some wire has to pass through the door for either the tweeter or the door speaker. I was not about to drill a hole through the molex connector in the door loom(which is how I saw people were doing it). And I don’t want to have a miscellaneous wire hanging in the door. Next time you’re back, you can hook it up and route it for me😁
I am using the tweeters, just have them connected to the factory tweeter harness.
Thank you to @YoungCRfor creating a separate thread for this. What I should have done from the beginning.
I said I would be done with mods, and I kind of lied. Albeit, this one isn’t a new item, but more of a rerouting. I was tired of having my phone cable strewn over my center console area from having to plug into the Sync ports at the front of the console. I also couldn’t ever close this roll top door at the front of the console due to this cable running out of it. The importance of the cable, is that it connects my iPhone to the truck to utilize Apple Car Play. Since this isn’t a 2021, I do not have wireless Car Play and have to have a hard wire connection like a peasant.
The solution? Drill.
Pulled the shifter trim surround off and was able to make some small holes in a couple of places to allow me to snake the iPhone cable through the structure of the center console to allow me to still use the function of the cable, but have it “hidden”. 
 
This took me about 10 minutes, $2 in grommets, and made my center console area way more orderly. Love the result.

To connect the crossovers with the door speakers, they both have to route to the cross over. One way shape or form, some wire has to pass through the door for either the tweeter or the door speaker. I was not about to drill a hole through the molex connector in the door loom(which is how I saw people were doing it). And I don’t want to have a miscellaneous wire hanging in the door. Next time you’re back, you can hook it up and route it for me😁
I am using the tweeters, just have them connected to the factory tweeter harness.
Thank you to @YoungCRfor creating a separate thread for this. What I should have done from the beginning.
I said I would be done with mods, and I kind of lied. Albeit, this one isn’t a new item, but more of a rerouting. I was tired of having my phone cable strewn over my center console area from having to plug into the Sync ports at the front of the console. I also couldn’t ever close this roll top door at the front of the console due to this cable running out of it. The importance of the cable, is that it connects my iPhone to the truck to utilize Apple Car Play. Since this isn’t a 2021, I do not have wireless Car Play and have to have a hard wire connection like a peasant.
The solution? Drill.
Pulled the shifter trim surround off and was able to make some small holes in a couple of places to allow me to snake the iPhone cable through the structure of the center console to allow me to still use the function of the cable, but have it “hidden”. 
 
This took me about 10 minutes, $2 in grommets, and made my center console area way more orderly. Love the result.

Mods keep coming, but this is likely the last for a while. The F150’s that did not have the premium stereo options are pretty widely regarded as dog shit. I agree, it’s a serviceable system that does the job but is not good. Even after the F30’s non HK system, there was a lot to be desired. I purchased the following Infinity Reference speakers to do a complete 7 speaker replacement.

This is my first attempt into car audio so ordering through Crutchfield was a big help and the included adapters made things really straight forward for the door speakers. Tweeter and center console was some pretty straight forward butt connections.
This came with crossovers, but trying to route the wires is not something I am interested in taking on at the time being. Future project. You can see there’s a pretty significant difference in just the speaker build alone:


 
Overall, worthwhile improvement. Significant increase in just overall sound quality and texture, which is exactly what I wanted. A little additional bass as well. After doing this, I think a sub is required. Kicker makes a powered sub that fits behind the rear bench seat that looks just like the OEM style ones.

Gen 2 raptor is the dream for an unnecessary daily driver. Not a huge fan of the newer GM interiors, think the Ford ones are better.
Funny enough a co worker has pretty much Raptor I want, in the same color as well.

You vs the guy she tells you not to worry about? 

I'm getting all jelly with your ford mods.  Recently sold my Gen2 Raptor and picked up a Sierra.  What a different world.
Huge pile of mods to do to it to 'make it mine'  Should be fun, but I do miss the Ford.
Love the color of yours, great choice on the wheels!!!

I plan to keep it.
Train keeps rolling with the modifications. This one both functional and aesthetic. @patsbimmer1 has me able to actually see properly at night time now with these Alpharex LUXX LED protector headlights. I swapped the halogen bulbs for some LED ones in the stock housings when I first got the truck. Albeit an improvement, it was incremental. These headlights actually have a defined cut off point and do a great job illuminating the road. After driving my moms new Acadia that had good headlights, I’ve needed that for my own vehicle.
I think the black housings, projector “eyes”, and DRL planks fit the truck well without looking overly aftermarket.
I was very much against having to use an additional wire harness for the DRLs as I want to have as minimal intrusions to the actual functioning parts of the vehicle and to not have a rats nest under the hood. Think the tuck job came out well and was able to make a couple small notches in the fuse box for the trigger wire to run through that still allows the box to seal properly.

 

 

I've been low key looking for an E92 M3 for a year or two now, and have had little success in finding what I was after. Recently a forum members old M3 went up for sale for a staggeringly good price, but there was error in communications and it went to a dealer who then wanted 5k more than they got it for and wouldn't budge on it. Since then I had been keeping a more serious eye out. 
This popped up the other day so I contemplated it for a day or two (that s52 head rebuild was not cheap) and decided to go look at it and deal with my decisions later. Needless to say it came home with me.
Awesome dealer specializing in higher end cars, he appreciated how thorough I was being in my inspection and questions and he was very honest with me about the whole thing. We struck up a deal and away I went.
Also got a ride in his FBO F90 M5 with meth that was ~800 AWHP and holy hell I have never felt something launch like that before.

Anywho
08 M3 6mt 105k, carbon roof, black interior, premium and comfort package, Vorsteiner wheels, KW coils, glorified straight pipes on it (zero rasp, sounds amazing, just a bit loud inside)


It has been a riot thus far

I should have just started a thread for this. But here the wheels are on the truck. 17x9 0 offset VenomRex VR601BL with 285/75R17 BFG KO2’s. Offset and sizing is just right to give it that perfect almost flush/slight poke look. 
 
The look was exactly what I was going for and I am really glad I took a chance on the bronze, think they great on the truck. Wheel to tire to wheel well ratio is perfect IMO, no rubbing at all.

I should have just started a thread for this. But here the wheels are on the truck. 17x9 0 offset VenomRex VR601BL with 285/75R17 BFG KO2’s. Offset and sizing is just right to give it that perfect almost flush/slight poke look. 
 
The look was exactly what I was going for and I am really glad I took a chance on the bronze, think they great on the truck. Wheel to tire to wheel well ratio is perfect IMO, no rubbing at all.

I should have just started a thread for this. But here the wheels are on the truck. 17x9 0 offset VenomRex VR601BL with 285/75R17 BFG KO2’s. Offset and sizing is just right to give it that perfect almost flush/slight poke look. 
 
The look was exactly what I was going for and I am really glad I took a chance on the bronze, think they great on the truck. Wheel to tire to wheel well ratio is perfect IMO, no rubbing at all.

I should have just started a thread for this. But here the wheels are on the truck. 17x9 0 offset VenomRex VR601BL with 285/75R17 BFG KO2’s. Offset and sizing is just right to give it that perfect almost flush/slight poke look. 
 
The look was exactly what I was going for and I am really glad I took a chance on the bronze, think they great on the truck. Wheel to tire to wheel well ratio is perfect IMO, no rubbing at all.