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KaiserRolls

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Posts posted by KaiserRolls

  1. Harness showed up today so I figured I’d get it tossed in before the rest of the coolshirt crap shows up. 
    ordered a harness from superbrightleds, they had a bunch of offerings for pre-built stuff with weatherpack connectors/relays for like $17. 
    connected it under the firewall cover, snagged power from the distro block, grounded to strut tower. 
    the switch they provide is a gross rocker style switch for a 248” brolightbar. 
    I ended up repurposing the AC button to turn the pump on. Figured it kind of made sense because “ac.” I couldn’t figure out illumination on the switch so I said screw it and just use it to trigger the relay. The switch stays in the down position anyways, so it’ll be obvious when the pump is running. 
    power to the trunk runs under the console/carpet/rear seat and comes out under the ski pass. Just long enough to make it to the coolers location. 57D6DBAB-5808-4BC4-9CFE-7A85DED54418.jpeg

    waiting on a few things to show up, the tube insulators will probably be the last thing to make it here and they’re kind of holding up the show at this point. 
    goal is to make this as hidden as possible, going to try and hide the tubes under the seats

  2. 10 minutes ago, YoungCR said:

    Assuming that's south of EC? I crossed the river at Nelson/Wabasha earlier this week. I miss the western Wisconsin views and roads. Curious to see your cool shirt contraption.

    Yep, along the Mississippi. Alma/Maiden rock/pepin

  3. Took the car on a small 3hr road trip over the weekend as a quick shakedown. No leaks, diff is good, ps pump still whines like crazy. 
    1954BFC4-0D9F-4B6E-ACCD-1FECCE4451A3.jpeg

    76519E2C-EF38-4D3D-AA5F-AF7F2090675F.jpegFA16BA4A-3636-4CD5-ACFF-F08B3CE64DBF.jpeg

    ordered a new pump this morning, hoping that gets rid of the heavy feeling steering and pump whine. 

    during the road trip it was hot out and I got hot. decided I’m going to DIY a coolshirt. Parts are showing up later this week. Going to try and keep the install clean. 
     

  4. 2 hours ago, SteelBlue said:

    It depends where you are looking and what you're reading. After I applied and saw the results, I understand why the shift is being made within the industry.

    That being said, there is a lot of junk out there. Buy from reputable companies and do research like anything else.

     

    I’m getting my info from the evo in the garage that had a 2year ceramic pro professionally applied And lasted all of 4/5 months with regular washing.

    the only way this stuff lasts 2 years is if it’s parked in the garage And the car is lightly used on the weekends. So at the price point it hits (when being professionally installed) a decent wax does the same thing. 

  5. Slapped the new Fuel lines/clamps/fuel filter in and went for the first drive since the diff refresh. Took it easy and will continue to do so for 50ish miles, but happy to report no coolant leaks/diff Leaks/fuel leaks/odd diff noises. 

  6. Re-tapped radiator drain last night and put the new plug in

    EFAE6B9E-AA99-4045-87CF-89557003A7BE.jpeg

    nose of car was already on jack stands so rebleeding was basically just fill up the reservoir and let it run for a bit. 
    When I was letting it bleed I was adding air to the tires for the commute to USAIR which is when I noticed this leak:

    B5241712-3040-4665-BD8B-40BC62F35BD2.jpeg
     

    Going to replace all the rubber lines as well as the fuel filter & going to add back in the rubber isolator that goes around the fuel filter 

    bummed on the timing as that means no USAIR for the e30, luckily my gf has cooler cars than me so I’ll just codrive 

  7. Well car is all back together & everything is torqued. Highly recommend the diff studs. Even changed the trans fluid. Last thing on the list is to replace the plastic rad drain with an aluminum one/new oring. The threads are supposedly m14x1.5 in this radiator, but the new plug doesn’t want to thread in nicely and I’m sick of coolant. Might send a tap thru it quickly and spin the new plug in. All while getting coated in coolant. 

  8. I’m really glad you were able to make it out man. If you keep at it you will no doubt improve. Autox is by far the cheapest/safest way to comfortably push a car. 
    I would try and keep 9/3 hand position on the wheel as much as possible. Avoid shuffle steering as the inputs tend to be jerky and can upset the car, I only overhand the wheel if it is super necessary on tight stuff. Line choice will get better with more seat time and definitely walk the course a few times. Looking ahead/through the corner towards the exit/apex whatever helped me a lot when I first started. Getting the car in the right position will help you not ruin the next 3 corners type of thing. I try to avoid “coasting” as much as possible. Either on throttle/braking/maintenance throttle. On RA Motorolex it’s super slick so I try not to be Hard on the brakes while doing large steering inputs.  For slaloms I usually ignore the first cone and try to make that a braking marker (depending on the course Obviously, but RA they can usually be ignored because the slalom “entrance” usually lines up with a corner exit) 

    I am by no means in a position to instruct and still am a Certified noob as well, but that’s some of the stuff I have picked up on riding with people that are way faster than me. 

    when they allow ride alongs, 100% get in someone’s car/grab an instructor 

  9. 16 hours ago, gilber33 said:

    They're sending me out a new rack tomorrow. The guy there highly recommended against using synthetic dexIII ATF and suspects that was the issue. I just was used what the internets said to use. 
     

    Anyways, on a more positive note. My wife ditched the XC90 for a 2021 VW Atlas with the second row captain seats. They are a game changer for hauling three kids. 
     

     

    CCFB2461-3F91-4A42-B8D2-4385E949994E.jpeg

    What did he suggest to use for fluid

  10. 1 hour ago, m42b32 said:

    I have a crusty high-mileage pair I'd split and sell one of. I usually bring one to autocross as a 'get me home' part

    That’s exactly my thinking lol. Let me know how much you want for it and we can try and work our logistics 

    id take a crusty high mileage oem part over parts store replacement  

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