straight6pwr

some people will be able to stay in, but not everyone. some people who need to be safe at home might now be forced to make the decision to go back to work and risk dying or stay and home and get fired. old people, immune compromised people, pregnant moms, etc have jobs too. currently, they can collect unemployment. if they are fired for not showing up for work, they cannot. 
you are smart enough to realize that staying away from people is indeed safer. you are smart enough to implement safe practices at you and your wife's businesses. its fantastic that you are doing that. the problem is many people are not. many people are idiots. stay at home was protecting us from idiots. the idiots will ruin it for all of us, no matter which side of the debate we are on. was a state wide shutdown an overreach? maybe. but we have laws and people in charge because the average citizen is like a 14 y.o. boy.  - without direction and someone else in charge, he will inevitably set himself on fire or set his friend on fire. he thinks he knows what good decisions are, but most of the time he's wrong. 
if a customer showed up at your wife's salon and said "I have COVID and I want to come in for a haircut", would you let them in? Yes or no, those people are coming, and they aren't going to warn you. 

Welcome!
Where the hell is Neenah?
 

you just repainted your car in your garage, I cannot comprehend how swapping some headlight electrical plugs could deter you. DOES NOT COMPUTE

I was moved to working from home right before the lockdown. All client worked immediately stopped, except for a school client. My boss permanently closed our office and moved out in April. Our company was luckily to get the small business loan to help with expenses for a couple months. Future is unknown, but closing the office was not a positive omen. 
 

there is a lot of ambient light in this area, so the exposures were from 5 to 15sec, at ISO400 f7.1
these were taken about 9pm. it was fully dark outside (besides the moon).  in my experience, the sky is always blue in long night exposures. from what I read, there are several things that affect that - the moon, time of night, light pollution, etc. i've never had a greyish black long exposure come from the camera. shorter exposures do tend to look greyish black.
my process is this - set the camera to an appropriate aperture (f7 to 9ish for 'landscape' scene) and low ISO and let the camera expose the scene. what will happen a lot is it will expose the maximum time (30sec on my particular camera) and the scene will still be underexposed. i then crank up the ISO until I get a reasonable shot. after getting a close exposure, i use exposure compensation to dial in the exact amount. that will make the camera add or remove a second or two from the exposure.  if its REALLY dark out and there arent many light sources, you'll also have to crank the aperture open
also a sturdy tripod and using the shutter timer (or remote) are 100% necessary for exposures these long. you still can handhold night shots, but you'll have to use a big apertures (like 1.8) and high ISO to get the exposure times down. 
for example, this shot was handheld. It was shot at f2.2 IS01600 with a 1/4 sec exposure. even at a 1/4sec i took several photos to get one steady enough to be sharp. 

and for funzees, here are some non-car long exposure night photos I have taken. 






 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

radiator cover? that sounds super exciting.
why not make something that actually benefits from being CF instead of just being bling?
 

there is a lot of ambient light in this area, so the exposures were from 5 to 15sec, at ISO400 f7.1
these were taken about 9pm. it was fully dark outside (besides the moon).  in my experience, the sky is always blue in long night exposures. from what I read, there are several things that affect that - the moon, time of night, light pollution, etc. i've never had a greyish black long exposure come from the camera. shorter exposures do tend to look greyish black.
my process is this - set the camera to an appropriate aperture (f7 to 9ish for 'landscape' scene) and low ISO and let the camera expose the scene. what will happen a lot is it will expose the maximum time (30sec on my particular camera) and the scene will still be underexposed. i then crank up the ISO until I get a reasonable shot. after getting a close exposure, i use exposure compensation to dial in the exact amount. that will make the camera add or remove a second or two from the exposure.  if its REALLY dark out and there arent many light sources, you'll also have to crank the aperture open
also a sturdy tripod and using the shutter timer (or remote) are 100% necessary for exposures these long. you still can handhold night shots, but you'll have to use a big apertures (like 1.8) and high ISO to get the exposure times down. 
for example, this shot was handheld. It was shot at f2.2 IS01600 with a 1/4 sec exposure. even at a 1/4sec i took several photos to get one steady enough to be sharp. 

and for funzees, here are some non-car long exposure night photos I have taken. 






 

-quick wash
-changed throttle mapping again to make a couple minor tweaks and Improvements to my first revision. It is much better than stock now. No dead zone on initial tip-in and sport mode isnt hyper-sensitive
-Finally got around to resetting the TPMS system. The light has been on ever since I have owned it. It’s wheel speed based rather than pressure sensors. This leaves only 2 more warning lights to remove from the dash, the washer fluid (just need to fill it 😅) and the brake wear sensors
 

there is a lot of ambient light in this area, so the exposures were from 5 to 15sec, at ISO400 f7.1
these were taken about 9pm. it was fully dark outside (besides the moon).  in my experience, the sky is always blue in long night exposures. from what I read, there are several things that affect that - the moon, time of night, light pollution, etc. i've never had a greyish black long exposure come from the camera. shorter exposures do tend to look greyish black.
my process is this - set the camera to an appropriate aperture (f7 to 9ish for 'landscape' scene) and low ISO and let the camera expose the scene. what will happen a lot is it will expose the maximum time (30sec on my particular camera) and the scene will still be underexposed. i then crank up the ISO until I get a reasonable shot. after getting a close exposure, i use exposure compensation to dial in the exact amount. that will make the camera add or remove a second or two from the exposure.  if its REALLY dark out and there arent many light sources, you'll also have to crank the aperture open
also a sturdy tripod and using the shutter timer (or remote) are 100% necessary for exposures these long. you still can handhold night shots, but you'll have to use a big apertures (like 1.8) and high ISO to get the exposure times down. 
for example, this shot was handheld. It was shot at f2.2 IS01600 with a 1/4 sec exposure. even at a 1/4sec i took several photos to get one steady enough to be sharp. 

and for funzees, here are some non-car long exposure night photos I have taken. 






 

there is a lot of ambient light in this area, so the exposures were from 5 to 15sec, at ISO400 f7.1
these were taken about 9pm. it was fully dark outside (besides the moon).  in my experience, the sky is always blue in long night exposures. from what I read, there are several things that affect that - the moon, time of night, light pollution, etc. i've never had a greyish black long exposure come from the camera. shorter exposures do tend to look greyish black.
my process is this - set the camera to an appropriate aperture (f7 to 9ish for 'landscape' scene) and low ISO and let the camera expose the scene. what will happen a lot is it will expose the maximum time (30sec on my particular camera) and the scene will still be underexposed. i then crank up the ISO until I get a reasonable shot. after getting a close exposure, i use exposure compensation to dial in the exact amount. that will make the camera add or remove a second or two from the exposure.  if its REALLY dark out and there arent many light sources, you'll also have to crank the aperture open
also a sturdy tripod and using the shutter timer (or remote) are 100% necessary for exposures these long. you still can handhold night shots, but you'll have to use a big apertures (like 1.8) and high ISO to get the exposure times down. 
for example, this shot was handheld. It was shot at f2.2 IS01600 with a 1/4 sec exposure. even at a 1/4sec i took several photos to get one steady enough to be sharp. 

and for funzees, here are some non-car long exposure night photos I have taken. 






 

there is a lot of ambient light in this area, so the exposures were from 5 to 15sec, at ISO400 f7.1
these were taken about 9pm. it was fully dark outside (besides the moon).  in my experience, the sky is always blue in long night exposures. from what I read, there are several things that affect that - the moon, time of night, light pollution, etc. i've never had a greyish black long exposure come from the camera. shorter exposures do tend to look greyish black.
my process is this - set the camera to an appropriate aperture (f7 to 9ish for 'landscape' scene) and low ISO and let the camera expose the scene. what will happen a lot is it will expose the maximum time (30sec on my particular camera) and the scene will still be underexposed. i then crank up the ISO until I get a reasonable shot. after getting a close exposure, i use exposure compensation to dial in the exact amount. that will make the camera add or remove a second or two from the exposure.  if its REALLY dark out and there arent many light sources, you'll also have to crank the aperture open
also a sturdy tripod and using the shutter timer (or remote) are 100% necessary for exposures these long. you still can handhold night shots, but you'll have to use a big apertures (like 1.8) and high ISO to get the exposure times down. 
for example, this shot was handheld. It was shot at f2.2 IS01600 with a 1/4 sec exposure. even at a 1/4sec i took several photos to get one steady enough to be sharp. 

and for funzees, here are some non-car long exposure night photos I have taken. 






 

great idea!
nope, thats a county park building near lake park

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

car looks great! jealous of your fully working cluster.
i loved my m20, so smooth! its the right amount of power that you can wring it out without really going too fast. they also sound better than 24v, imho. 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

happened to find the moon out last night

This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser! 

Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic. 



city lights

white on white


 

Can't wait!! 

its decided then, e30 shoot at the museum. what night? i have nothing going on, you know quarantine and all. 

scouted some night shot sites. have to process through them, but here's one for now. this was inspired by @m42b32 's night museum shot, we're going to get some of his car in MKE at some point.