Earl Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Going to push for the picnic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Trying to, but won't be rushing anything either. That's when mistakes happen and I don't want to have to do something AGAIN just because I rushed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Have you gone back over the cooling system? That seems to be the part that always sabotages you coming places=/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 There is still quite a bit I need to check over from previous "rush" jobs. I want to fix the exhaust leak at the manifold, fuel leak at the feed connection point, and definitely look to see how I can redo the lower hose routing. All this on top of finishing up the rear end. Then of course body work and group 2 kit install. Oh and I will need to see if I will have to redo the exhaust or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 In 4 Gruppe 2 kit!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Motorsport hardware studs installed in rear hubs. CV axle hardware cleaned and installed with a shit ton of locktite. Better not come out again. Rear rotors resurfaced and installed along with calipers. Rear brakes bled. And test fit of new wheels. Guess I didn't account for the negative camber when calculating fitment with flares. Will have to see what is needed after car is on ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daggerty Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 That rear end looks insane. You need some 355s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Throw some D's on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Yup, just what I thought. Kicking myself for not welding in some camber adjustments when the subframe was out. Also, still notbaure about that wheel gap with the flares. [emoji53] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Probably should find some wheels that fill them out. You'll need some pretty gnarly negative offset and a little more width Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 I originally thought these would do the trick. They are 15x9 with -15 offset. I guess I just didn't take the excessive camber into account. I flipped the subframe mounts which brings it higher up into the chassis, helped the camber slightly. I just ordered some camber adjustments to weld in to dial out a little more. If I have to run a small spacer so be it. My motorsport hardware studs have the room for spacers so that wouldn't be an issue. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted May 15, 2017 Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 Damn. Looks like you need 16x12's. What size wheels do other E21's use with that flare setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 Yes professional race teams with group 2 e21's use wide ass wheels, but majority of people just run 7-9" wide wheels with spacers. Some I have seen use 16s and others ive seen use even 13s, so its a horse a piece really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight6pwr Posted May 15, 2017 Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 camber adjustment, spacers and some wider rubber? 275s? 285s? the stretchy tire is killin the race car vibe. those wheels are going to look so nice, it would be a shame to change them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 I agree, the tire stretch is a little more than I wanted, but there just isn't much out there in a wide performance tire for a 15" wheel without spending a shit ton. Didn't want to break the bank when there is still plenty left to pay for on this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 225s on a 9" is a quite common setup for autox... slight stretch can help with sidewall deflection as well http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/letters-from-luke/wider-is-better-some-of-the-time Looks will always be subjective though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiserRolls Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Bassface sell the 225s and buy the RS4 245s if you're worried about the look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 Now for the tricky part. Welding these bad boys on with the subframe still on the car. Can it be done? Stay tuned for a gripping update.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted May 22, 2017 Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 You are a God if you can make that happen. BRB Im getting some popcorn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 You are a God if you can make that happen. BRB Im getting some popcorn. I gave up, you win! Jdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B C Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Do you need help putting that back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 We shall see after I weld in the adjustments tomorrow morning Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2017 Finally got everything welded and the holes slotted after some tool banging, swearing and too many trips to northern tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdesign Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 uggghhh that looks annoying. Mostly because mine is all painted and its seems yours is too.. Please get someone to help you put it back in the car. I know all to well how annoying it is by yourself on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassboy3313 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 uggghhh that looks annoying. Mostly because mine is all painted and its seems yours is too.. Please get someone to help you put it back in the car. I know all to well how annoying it is by yourself on the ground. [emoji20] It wasn't that bad at all. The nice thing about the e21 is that the subframe mounts unbolt from the subframe. So I install the mounts on the frame studs loosely. Then roll assembly underneath, jack it up and bolt the subframe to the mounts after getting them lined up. The thing I'm running into now tho is that with the subframe mounted, jacking up the diff puts it at an angle that the mount arms I welded on the car doesn't like. Somehow I need to pull the rear side of mounts towards rear of car about an 1/8th for the diff cover to clear them. I'm thinking maybe rent a slide hammer from AAP and give it a few whacks. That's my best idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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