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Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)


DrLeadFoot

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Sorting out a couple more ground wires then I should be all done with the dme side of the wiring harness. Still need to wire up the new gauges and the GM IAT sensor.Heat Sink'd the coil drivers.Where I left it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Are those puzzle pieces on your socks!?!?!

Hipsters.......sigh.....

0edf2e92dd5e26a82010db05dca21817.jpg

That's my signature Realtor "look". You wanna buy a house??!

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Going to make the temp sensor into a vacuum port or find a barb fitting at the hardware store.

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Took a straight edge and a feeler gauge to the block at a bunch of different angles.  This is the only spot that the .0015" feeler gauge found a gap.  It has resistance but it still goes under the straight edge.  The area in question is by the coolant port and is a little wider than the gauge.  Thoughts?

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Ben has something similar going on with his block as well. 
 

I dont have the specs for a BMW handy but I believe .002" is the max. deviation for flatness on a typical cylinder head. 

I wouldn't let it bother me if I were you. Nobody can say for sure that it will be fine/be a problem but if I were in your shoes i'd just forget about it and run with it. 

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That is kind of odd, it looks a lot like the imperfection that I have in mine!

With the material the HG is made out of I think it should be fine. 

That doesn't extend to the cylinder does it? If not I wouldn't be too concerned about it. 

It does touch the cylinder wall. Honda Bond and call it a day?

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Where have I heard that name before?

From what ive researched, if you tap into an existing + from an ABS sensor then you need to amplify the signal like you mentioned the other day. Dialing in the amplification on that link I texted you looks like it requires an oscilloscope and an electrical engineering degree which is why I suggested making a bracket to mount a standalone wheel speed sensor.

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Where have I heard that name before? From what ive researched, if you tap into an existing + from an ABS sensor then you need to amplify the signal like you mentioned the other day. Dialing in the amplification on that link I texted you looks like it requires an oscilloscope and an electrical engineering degree which is why I suggested making a bracket to mount a standalone wheel speed sensor.

he is a BF.C frequent user that has helped answer a few of my questions and knows his stuff. 

I remember he used some signal converter that was cheap and got it to work great. Just facebook him or get him on BF.C. He will answer your question without any head scratching. 

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Where have I heard that name before? From what ive researched, if you tap into an existing + from an ABS sensor then you need to amplify the signal like you mentioned the other day. Dialing in the amplification on that link I texted you looks like it requires an oscilloscope and an electrical engineering degree which is why I suggested making a bracket to mount a standalone wheel speed sensor.

he is a BF.C frequent user that has helped answer a few of my questions and knows his stuff. 

I remember he used some signal converter that was cheap and got it to work great. Just facebook him or get him on BF.C. He will answer your question without any head scratching. 

Derek and Snap have been huge helps

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The one on the underside of the manifold?

Wiring for traction control looks about right, though I have not used one of the conditioners. What one did you end up using?

Edit: Just kidding, went back a page and found it. 

 

The one under the manifold.  I'll order this today.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161772492725?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

 

I went to David Hobbs Honda yesterday.  He didn't put me in a honda but I gave him money and he gave me hondabond.

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Ordered two of these.

http://www.knifecountryusa.com/store/product/118873.118902/norton-sharpeners-ib6-6-india-alundum-175th-anniversary-edition.html?avad=55963_f9615842

I'd be kicking myself if I blew the head gasket again without preparing the block the proper way.

This weekend I'll get my oil cooler sorted out, order some other parts and put some work in!

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The stone block is the farthest thing from the proper way lol.
It's just a way to do it that allows you to keep the motor in. Not that it won't work, but unless you managed to warp your block you stand a chance of messing it up when you do it by hand. 
You only use the stone a couple times, then you switch to sandpaper over the stone. 
It's pretty easy, but you will have some very tired arms after! 

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The stone block is the farthest thing from the proper way lol.

It's just a way to do it that allows you to keep the motor in. Not that it won't work, but unless you managed to warp your block you stand a chance of messing it up when you do it by hand. 

You only use the stone a couple times, then you switch to sandpaper over the stone. 

It's pretty easy, but you will have some very tired arms after! 

It's far better than doing nothing, right? I'm just nervous about that .0015 gap on cylinder #6.

What would you do?

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