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KaiserRolls

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Posts posted by KaiserRolls

  1. 1 hour ago, YoungCR said:

    ^ thats the same tee used in the stock position in the rear. I hear ya on the diy flaring, you’re right though the tools have always been the problem. The split die style flaring tool makes perfect flares about 95% of the time. The only time it doesn’t work is because the line wasn’t square. Remembering to put the flare nut on the line is the hardest part 😂

    That is the exact part for the rear T lol, wanted a m10 bubble flare fitting, figured that would be the easiest to find 😁

  2. OEM lines don’t show up pre bent, at least for the long run to the rear brakes  

    on my old red e30 I ran chase bays line for the main rear run, it was quick and easy

    my current car I went the copper nickel route and re did all the front line and flared stuff. Also super easy to work with 

    9C3A9F0C-11BD-406E-8F9D-D6338ED27E1C.jpeg

  3. 3 hours ago, Boris3 said:

    I owe an apology to someone, not sure who. Wet last Monday night (the 21st), around 8:30 pm, I94 westbound coming up on State Fair park. I was in the faded red 318is. Someone pulled alongside me (blue/black?) and stayed there for a bit, I was focusing more on the sheriff tucked away up ahead off to the right and doing my typical minding my own business so didn't look over. Saw the roundel when you passed and I followed over to and on 894SB until I pulled off at National.     

    Wibimmers missed connections 

  4. Drivers side front brake line good to go, passenger line will be the longest run from the T4257271A-960E-4843-A92A-BE18AC89FA3F.jpeg

     

    might even be able to use the stock brake line metal clip things with a little finesse 

    559EA5DD-EBC6-45F5-AB9A-1156802811D9.jpeg

  5. Interior stuff is all done, remote Knob used the area for the fog lights (which Are being removed for the OEM “delete” panels) 

    04112149-B013-4AB9-B919-393B52795EAA.jpeg
    hoping I won’t have to touch interior stuff anymore for this chapter (wideband is already routed, just not connected to anything) 

    made a quick “bracket” for the bias adjuster out of some scrap 3/4” alum square tubing. 
    3A9DB98E-2258-43BF-A22E-584572C9F43E.jpeg

    removed the factory heat shield for the exhaust (firewall area, still running the one in the tunnel) as it was pretty disgusting and had seen better days.

    4258DF20-8E29-4ED5-A92B-B11F983A8AED.jpeg

    Eventually I’ll add some DEI stuff if needed. Also removed the factory sound deadening thing from the firewall/tunnel. After removing the flanged plastic nuts the stuff basically fell apart as I removed it. It was also gross. Have seen rot behind these before on other cars, but luckily this car has never seen winter. Removed all the studs with an angle grinder as well. 
    should have a lot more room to access trans stuff now if I need to. 


    next up is to finish making hardlines to go from master to bias valve and master to front brakes. Once that’s done I can start on the engine stuff 

     

  6. Dropping it out of the bottom Is the way to go

    B7EFB135-3C21-4C6F-B9F6-BDBAA30CC4ED.jpeg
     

    ABS pump is already gone, as well as all the front brake lines. Working on getting the bias adjuster mounted and remote cable ran. 
    quick bend of the rear line gets the angle right for the cable to run to an already existing grommet in the firewall next to the main fuse box harness 

    D0BA8894-E2B7-49FC-9DB3-9080AD2E013E.jpeg

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