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Jdesign

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Posts posted by Jdesign

  1. On 6/1/2022 at 9:49 AM, m42b32 said:

    Was fun watching the end of the auction yesterday, happy with the result?? 

    I am. I was a little worried by the identical car ending two days after mine, but it seems like that didn't impact my auction much at all. I watched that one end today and none of the bidders were the same individuals that were bidding on my auction, which I found odd.

     

    The winner is actually a local guy, so Im sure we will see the car around.

  2. 15 hours ago, YoungCR said:

    What did you get for fuel mileage? This is crazy awesome. 

    I was squeezing 50 out of it on my way down. I had it in eco mode, was coasting a lot, and was very light on the throttle. Once I hit some rain, I gave up and started laying into it. In the mountains on and off road I got a solid 37-38 using the throttle as an on and of switch 😆

    3 hours ago, SteelBlue said:

    Was this car up in Appleton? I feel like I have seen it before, but maybe I am just imagining things.

    Yes. The original owner that modified it worked at Fitment Industries. he sold it to the owner I purchased it from in Neenah. 

    2 hours ago, GunMetalGrey said:

    Those wheels though

    Sewer caps*  (honestly they are centerline 849 PANGEA's) fitting for the lift and tires. 

  3. Some cars just have a weird way of finding me. I was not looking for an F30, but then again, I am always looking for cars to buy and sell. After buying a 2008 Tahoe hybrid on a whim to tow my boat, I came across a listing for a unique Alpine white over Saddle brown fully loaded 2014 BMW 328D Xdrive that was lifted, deleted, and tuned. The listing stated that the owner was looking for a truck or Tahoe to trade. I messaged him thinking how dumb I would be to get rid of all of my tow vehicles (after just selling my other Tahoe), but at the same time smart because of the value difference and the possibility of finally retiring my civic hybrid of 327k miles. 

    Fast forward a week later and I am a proud owner of another diesel BMW, and what better way to really prove a new cars "worth" other than to take it on a 3K mile road trip through the smoky mountain's.  I did some preparation, fixed some things, and fully inspected the car before I left, but safe to say I made it there and back without an issue.  I was thoroughly impressed by the cars capability by not only climbing up the side of a mountain with a bunch of heavily modded trucks, but keeping up with some other newer BMWs on the tail of the dragon.

    2A2BC959-05DA-432D-8D79-96BE1E85EC8B.jpeg07991A62-2EFD-437C-8EB9-5B2E4C2225F2.jpeg43D07033-3F30-45DD-BC70-3DAAFE44A617.jpegFD6CD801-DD3C-4BEC-96CB-BC9E09E6A3F4.jpeg8725A293-FBF1-4976-9CEE-BFDE82F05701.jpeg88D82FEB-6AE9-456F-B593-E4801DBCAF06.jpeg13FD2511-4F92-44A5-9567-0F9AF0EAEAAF.jpeg2C37850E-E050-442F-A6AE-BFAE664E2AB9.jpegAD924AA1-52AB-47FC-9884-086D14410EC9.jpeg37751CB6-C90B-4CAE-B107-3DBB202AD4C5.jpeg

    For now, Im not really sure what the future may hold for the car, but I plan on keeping it for awhile. I have some thoughts in my head of lowering it back down, but for now, Im just going to do some preventative maintenance and fix some of the odds and ends that it needs. This thread will probably be more of a log for me to keep track of such.

    Here is what is done to the car:

    • Center Line Wheels 18x8 +35 (1 of 1)
    • TOYO TIRES 225/55/18 Open Country
    • Black Label Lighting 30" Single Row Light Bar
    • D.H. VinylWorx Graphics
    • Buzzken - 328d DPF/SCR delete
    • JR Auto Stage 3 Tune
    • Rising Tuning lift & level kit
    • black kidneys
    • trunk spoiler

     

  4. I made it to Helen, and was planning on driving back up Saturday morning. I checked the weather and it was 20 degrees colder and called for thunderstorms so I decided against going. It looks like the weatherman was wrong again. Oh well, I will make sure I attending next year. Please share all the photos you can!

  5. On 5/11/2022 at 9:44 PM, timmer said:

    We are still going!  Gonna make it an annual trip... Gonna take my E30 this year, my wife's E30 Cabrio next year, and hopefully by the third year, I'll have the E21 ready to go, lol.

    Looking forward to it!!!! It would be awesome to get a WiBimmers group going ever year!

    Awesome. Im actually going to go to Alpine Vag Fair which is just south of there in Helen, GA. Might have to make a detour along the way for a day!

  6. On 5/12/2022 at 9:36 PM, P_Roloff said:

    Thread jack, but if you want the pro strat for boat oil changes, the next time you do it buy or make a drain hose kit. My parents inboard came with this setup from the factory and it’s slick as shit, and so easy. Just snake the tube out of the boat drain plug, put a drain pan underneath, and pop the cap off. Easiest oil change I’ve ever done. 
     

    Example of a kit: https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sierra-18-7891-oil-drain-kit.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_9PmkLjb9wIVBezjBx3cYQ45EAQYAiABEgKgXfD_BwE

    I have one of those. My big gripe is that it takes a good 20-25mins to suck all the oil out and you have to continuously pump it to keep it pressurized even if there are no air leaks.

  7. Thats an interesting question. I would think that the Hobbyist plate would exempt you. Hobbyist is basically the same as a collector plate but allows modifications to a car that is a minimum of 20 years old.

     

    FROM THE WISCONSIN DOT:

    Hobbyist license plate numbers are assigned to the vehicle owner for a lifetime and the registration does not expire. A letter suffix is added to the number (i.e., 1A, 1B, etc.) for each subsequent hobbyist vehicle owned by the same person. Hobbyist plates cannot be personalized.

    Types of hobbyist vehicles

    Street modified vehicles

    • Must be at least 20 model years old.
    • Can still be recognized as the original vehicle year and make.
    • Are altered from the original vehicle.
    • Are typically known as "hot rods" or "street rods".

    Replica vehicles

    • Must replicate a vehicle at least 20 model years old.
    • Are reproductions of vehicles originally made by another manufacturer. (Indicate the year and make that the vehicle replicates in Section A of the application.)

    Reconstructed vehicles

    • Are constructed from a vehicle at least 20 model years old.
    • Are no longer recognizable as the original vehicle.
    • If newly reconstructed, the application must include a bill of sale for all major parts used in the construction of the vehicle.
    • May need an inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol inspector. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed.

    Homemade motorized vehicles

    • Must have been constructed from new or used parts with a body and frame not originating from or resembling a previously manufactured motor vehicle.
    • Homemade motorcycles must replicate a motorcycle 20 or more model years old.
    • May need an inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol inspector. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed.

    Refer to Wisconsin Statutes 341.268 for vehicle definitions and Administrative Rule Trans 149 for homemade or reconstructed vehicle requirements.

    Things you should know:

    • The owner of a Hobbyist vehicle must own or lease one other motor vehicle for regular transportation with current, valid registration in Wisconsin under the same name(s) as the hobbyist vehicle. If jointly owned, each owner must own or lease a vehicle with valid registration in Wisconsin to qualify.
    • Hobbyist registration fees are twice the regular annual registration fee for the type of vehicle, plus a one-time fee of $50 for the first Hobbyist plate.
    • Truck-type vehicles with Hobbyist plates are registered by gross weight.
      • To determine the gross vehicle weight, use the weight of the vehicle, a full tank of gas, driver, passengers and any load you plan to carry. Hobbyist truck-type vehicles cannot haul more than 500 pounds.
    • Hobbyist registration does not expire for as long as you own the vehicle.
    • Hobbyist license plates are not valid for operation during the month of January. To operate the vehicle in January, use the Collector or Hobbyist Vehicle Temporary License Plate Application form MV2750 to apply for temporary registration for a maximum of five consecutive days in January.
    • Vehicles with Hobbyist plates cannot be used for commercial purposes or operated for hire.
    • Except for motorcycles, which receive one plate, WisDOT issues two Hobbyist license plates that must be displayed on the vehicle.
    • For more information, visit personalized and special plates FAQs.

    How to apply

    Hobbyist license plates are not available at DMV customer service centers.

    To apply for Hobbyist license plates by mail, please send the following items:

    Wisconsin Department of Transportation
    Special Plates Unit
    P.O. Box 7911
    Madison WI 53707-7911

    Registration fees

    Vehicle type Gross weight* First plate Second and subsequent plate, or transfer from a vehicle you no longer own
    Automobile N/A $220 $170
    Truck
    Bus
    Former military vehicle

    4,500 pounds

    6,000 pounds

    $250 $200
    over 6,000 pounds $262 $212
    Motor home 5,000 pounds $147 $97
    over 5,000 pounds $160 $110
    Motorcycle/moped N/A $73 $23
    Truck tractor 6,000 pounds $286 $236
    over 6,000 pounds $298 $248

    For more information:

    1. Complete and sign the Hobbyist Registration Application form MV2388. Check the type of hobbyist vehicle on page 1.
    2. Send the above items with your original title (not a photocopy) and Hobbyist registration fee to:
    3. If the vehicle is not titled in your name, you must also complete form MV1 Wisconsin Title and License Plate Application (or MV11 for dealer sales) and include appropriate fees.
    4. If the vehicle qualifies as a reconstructed or homemade vehicle, the vehicle must pass a safety and equipment inspection with the Wisconsin State Patrol. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed.
  8. Still fighting this car as much as I can. As of yesterday, I think I can say the steering is complete. Sadly, I needed to add a secondary support bearing closer to the double D joint as it would bind under certain conditions. To do this meant I could no longer use the shaft that I had machined down and had to get yet another D shaft. Luckily I had a friend with a spare sitting in his shop that was the right size and length, and was also chrome plated. I was able to mount everything where it needed to be, and welded a new bracket to the pedal box bracket for the new support. After that I added an additional bracket to the column as well to replace the factory support under the dash cluster. This last bracket made everything much much stronger. Finally the steering "inside" the car is done.

    610B70CF-2BD8-469F-BE33-D9981F8F125C.jpeg

    If you look close here you can see the L bracket right at the back of the column that would make that final rigid support.8C1ED1CD-B62B-4622-85D5-9A10794B3263.jpeg

    The next thing I needed to attack was getting all the bulkheads in the firewall and the braided brake lines ran. Most of these were already routed earlier, but I will need to add adel clamps so they aren't flying around. One that I did not install was the clutch line. I was waiting to do this as I wanted to hide most of the bulk heads and this one was near the steering shaft and the throttle. I had to complete these in order to prevent any more redos.

    So first up I had to modify the throttle for the pedal box. The throttle beam and cam is made of aluminum, and the pivot travels behind the steering shaft and the brake pedals. The cable from factory exits just above where the clutch pedal is, and with the new pedal box, this needs to be moved. I cut the cable arm right above the factory stop to maintain the correct pedal height, and added material approximately the same height directly above the throttle pedal itself. This would allow the cable to be located closer to the center of the engine bay and directly inline with the throttle body. I was able to reduce the length of the cable by about 12" with this alteration!

    107B8E35-168C-45B3-A5B3-CDD9509229B8.jpeg

    What I didn't expect was that with the cable location to the cam profile on the pedal, was that I now would need about an extra 2-4" of leverage from the fulcrum to completely open and close the throttlebody. So my solution was a billet aluminum lever from a cheap hydro that I could make an adjustable extension. This worked perfect, and actually made everything much more sturdy.

    Finally I ran the clutch line bulkhead right below the heater core lines beside the throttle. The angle of the picture below gives you an idea on the location, and also how tightly everything fits together. Note the cable at the top of the lever and the space on either side as it passes through when the throttle is depressed.

    7FC634CE-190C-4F8D-908D-2F45533A1FC2.jpeg

    On the exterior of the steering issues was something I didn't mention previously. The new Wilwood rotors sat much further inward to the hub and were very close to the heatshields. So close in fact that with the factory tie rods installed, the boots pushed the shields into the rotors and would cause them to rub. I tried to get different tie rods and even shave them down, but that didn't help. I then bought an cheap angle kit like the one on my E36 to move the pivot inward and away from the rotor. The kit I bought didn't quite fit the hubs I have, so I had to mill them down on the Bridgeport. This was a fail, as even after machining them, I would need additional spacers on the brackets and special hardware. Ultimately I caved and bought a bump steer kit that uses Heim joints in place of the tie rods that allowed me the extra space. I figured these will also help with bumpsteer (duh) and the car being so low and not having power steering anyways. 

    See failed E36 bracket below

    12611A09-454F-4DA1-A9C0-25F1B48E22CC.jpeg

    And the MRT bumpsteer kit installed. Note the space between the heatshield and rotors.28184179-68B1-4558-818A-BA5993D3A928.jpeg5119B449-B521-480C-AA13-F5AE7224B5BC.jpeg

    Next is wiring. I started, but its nothing worth mentioning just yet. Fingered Crossed for the Picnic!

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