m42b32

So a huge update as I am very behind with this thread. Eisenmann was removed from @pynacls parts car. Paid a shop down the road $300 to remove and re-install my welded section 2+muffler to the parts car. Only to find out the Eisenmann was sorta butchered up. Brackets were cut, rewelded to other places and was actually welded to the car on some places. Whoever "Rebuilt" that car was a total hack. I decided that I wasn't going to let such an expensive muffler go to waste. One email to Eisenmann and another to IND and I ordered a set of new stainless brackets that I will have my local machine shop weld to the muffler to make it usable again. at $90 shipped to my door. I couldn't say no still waiting on those.. 
In the meantime, @pynacllent me his stock muffler that I could pare up to the stock section 2. I installed both of those to prepare for the car to be pulled out on April 21st. Knowing I froze the 200TW Hankook RS4s, I was looking for a better option for more street driving then track driving. After consulting with @jgustyand @patsbimmer1I decided on a set of Michelin PS4s tires from non other then BLAINS FARM AND FLEET. Huge thanks to Pat as I got the set of new tires for $1003 installed utilizing their B3G1 sale. Name dropping Pat also included no fuck-ups to my wheels aswell, its hard to find good help around these parts as @KaiserRollsknows. Only problem with the new tires is that they rub on the fender liner when turning. I will let that self clearance.
Before pulling the car out I had to install my new Tanik wheel from Germany with no trim gap, a new steering wheel trim piece, the new rear view mirror, new floormats front and rear, new F10 m5 knob retrofitted to the E46 boot frame and finally a BLUEBUS. I scored 2 bluebusses, one for $300 and one on ebay for $200. Knowing they were still unavailable I was checking eBay one night to see how much the one I bought for $300 was going for. Only to find one listed for $200 that I purchased instantly. Ended up selling the $300 one for $420 on ebay. Scumbag decided to file a chargeback. So we will see what happens with that.
The BlueBus is fantastic, displays coolant temp, auto plays and displays music, tons of other options with it. LED displays RED when disconnected and GREEN when connected. Not to mention, it sounds fantastic. Truly an awesome open source device for the I-Bus equipped cars. Even plugged it in to my computer to rename it "M3" when connecting to it on Bluetooth. I still need to install the phone adaptor that goes to it as the M3 is factory equipped with the BMW Assist system and I couldn't find the plug. I did though install it with the USB wire connected and routed it for easy updates. So that's cool. I also purchased an OEM BMW sunshade for my birthday as a gift to myself as they came back in stock


 
Having not seen @pynaclsince my birthday weekend. We took a drive on the St. Croix river starting in Prescott Wisconsin ending in Durand just south of Menomonie for some Stone barn Pizza. When I woke up of course I had to start the day on the wrong foot. My new mirror already started leaking. Cant say it wasn't expected but didn't expect that so soon. Will send it out to Radar Mirror to redo it for me as I don't want to break any tabs. Mid way though the drive I got pulled over and got my first speeding ticket. Lets just say, I found a lawyer that will handle that one, as it wasn't one I could just let slide. 

On Thursday I did a full "Leatherique Treatment" to the interior of the car. I am happy to say the seats are softer then ever and cleaner then ever aswell. While I was doing that something cool showed up via UPS. I scored a Supersprint non-catted section 2 X pipe for $225 shipped to my door. After @pynacls experiment I really wanted a resonated X pipe. But at $225 I couldn't say no. If I don't like the sound I will add a resonator for not much more. 

Fast forward to this weekend the 15th I participated in the CVSCC (Chippewa Valley Sports Car Club) Auto-X at the Northern Wisconsin State Fair Grounds. I had a blast of a time. Fastest time being 52.73. Beating out a 2018 m3 in the Novice class and a bunch of other noobies. My twin brother got second place in his 128i and can no longer be in the novice class.. Shout out to Ethyn and Sam for the photos and video of my last run of the day. Also, 0 cones hit though the day, so I think I can go faster...
 

Next event will be the BMW spring Picnic on the 28th I am helping @wasnt m3put on. Cant wait to see my MKE friends again. 
Bonus pic of me leaving the UW-Stout Auto Club car show that my business sponsored. 


 

Ended up finding a guy to 3d print my design in black ABS and just got them back. My 3d printer doesn't have an enclosure which is necessary for ABS due to warping if cooled too rapidly without one. Bought the o-rings from mcbastard and off I went.





I think it turned out pretty awesome. The angle of the last pic was off since I was on a step stool with car on the lift, lol. But it's centered over the strut and hole is big enough to fit your hand in and adjust comfortably. 
The cap snaps in snug and pry's off with a small amount of force, which is perfect. I'm happy with it.

Thats an interesting question. I would think that the Hobbyist plate would exempt you. Hobbyist is basically the same as a collector plate but allows modifications to a car that is a minimum of 20 years old.
 
FROM THE WISCONSIN DOT:
Hobbyist license plate numbers are assigned to the vehicle owner for a lifetime and the registration does not expire. A letter suffix is added to the number (i.e., 1A, 1B, etc.) for each subsequent hobbyist vehicle owned by the same person. Hobbyist plates cannot be personalized.
Types of hobbyist vehicles
Street modified vehicles
Must be at least 20 model years old. Can still be recognized as the original vehicle year and make. Are altered from the original vehicle. Are typically known as "hot rods" or "street rods". Replica vehicles
Must replicate a vehicle at least 20 model years old. Are reproductions of vehicles originally made by another manufacturer. (Indicate the year and make that the vehicle replicates in Section A of the application.) Reconstructed vehicles
Are constructed from a vehicle at least 20 model years old. Are no longer recognizable as the original vehicle. If newly reconstructed, the application must include a bill of sale for all major parts used in the construction of the vehicle. May need an inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol inspector. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed. Homemade motorized vehicles
Must have been constructed from new or used parts with a body and frame not originating from or resembling a previously manufactured motor vehicle. Homemade motorcycles must replicate a motorcycle 20 or more model years old. May need an inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol inspector. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed. Refer to Wisconsin Statutes 341.268 for vehicle definitions and Administrative Rule Trans 149 for homemade or reconstructed vehicle requirements.
Things you should know:
The owner of a Hobbyist vehicle must own or lease one other motor vehicle for regular transportation with current, valid registration in Wisconsin under the same name(s) as the hobbyist vehicle. If jointly owned, each owner must own or lease a vehicle with valid registration in Wisconsin to qualify. Hobbyist registration fees are twice the regular annual registration fee for the type of vehicle, plus a one-time fee of $50 for the first Hobbyist plate. Truck-type vehicles with Hobbyist plates are registered by gross weight. To determine the gross vehicle weight, use the weight of the vehicle, a full tank of gas, driver, passengers and any load you plan to carry. Hobbyist truck-type vehicles cannot haul more than 500 pounds. Hobbyist registration does not expire for as long as you own the vehicle. Hobbyist license plates are not valid for operation during the month of January. To operate the vehicle in January, use the Collector or Hobbyist Vehicle Temporary License Plate Application form MV2750 to apply for temporary registration for a maximum of five consecutive days in January. Vehicles with Hobbyist plates cannot be used for commercial purposes or operated for hire. Except for motorcycles, which receive one plate, WisDOT issues two Hobbyist license plates that must be displayed on the vehicle. For more information, visit personalized and special plates FAQs. How to apply
Hobbyist license plates are not available at DMV customer service centers.
To apply for Hobbyist license plates by mail, please send the following items:
Registration fees
Vehicle type Gross weight* First plate Second and subsequent plate, or transfer from a vehicle you no longer own Automobile N/A $220 $170 Truck
Bus
Former military vehicle 4,500 pounds
6,000 pounds
$250 $200 over 6,000 pounds $262 $212 Motor home 5,000 pounds $147 $97 over 5,000 pounds $160 $110 Motorcycle/moped N/A $73 $23 Truck tractor 6,000 pounds $286 $236 over 6,000 pounds $298 $248 For more information:
Complete and sign the Hobbyist Registration Application form MV2388. Check the type of hobbyist vehicle on page 1. Send the above items with your original title (not a photocopy) and Hobbyist registration fee to: If the vehicle is not titled in your name, you must also complete form MV1 Wisconsin Title and License Plate Application (or MV11 for dealer sales) and include appropriate fees. If the vehicle qualifies as a reconstructed or homemade vehicle, the vehicle must pass a safety and equipment inspection with the Wisconsin State Patrol. You will receive a letter requesting an inspection, if needed.

Still fighting this car as much as I can. As of yesterday, I think I can say the steering is complete. Sadly, I needed to add a secondary support bearing closer to the double D joint as it would bind under certain conditions. To do this meant I could no longer use the shaft that I had machined down and had to get yet another D shaft. Luckily I had a friend with a spare sitting in his shop that was the right size and length, and was also chrome plated. I was able to mount everything where it needed to be, and welded a new bracket to the pedal box bracket for the new support. After that I added an additional bracket to the column as well to replace the factory support under the dash cluster. This last bracket made everything much much stronger. Finally the steering "inside" the car is done.

If you look close here you can see the L bracket right at the back of the column that would make that final rigid support.
The next thing I needed to attack was getting all the bulkheads in the firewall and the braided brake lines ran. Most of these were already routed earlier, but I will need to add adel clamps so they aren't flying around. One that I did not install was the clutch line. I was waiting to do this as I wanted to hide most of the bulk heads and this one was near the steering shaft and the throttle. I had to complete these in order to prevent any more redos.
So first up I had to modify the throttle for the pedal box. The throttle beam and cam is made of aluminum, and the pivot travels behind the steering shaft and the brake pedals. The cable from factory exits just above where the clutch pedal is, and with the new pedal box, this needs to be moved. I cut the cable arm right above the factory stop to maintain the correct pedal height, and added material approximately the same height directly above the throttle pedal itself. This would allow the cable to be located closer to the center of the engine bay and directly inline with the throttle body. I was able to reduce the length of the cable by about 12" with this alteration!

What I didn't expect was that with the cable location to the cam profile on the pedal, was that I now would need about an extra 2-4" of leverage from the fulcrum to completely open and close the throttlebody. So my solution was a billet aluminum lever from a cheap hydro that I could make an adjustable extension. This worked perfect, and actually made everything much more sturdy.
Finally I ran the clutch line bulkhead right below the heater core lines beside the throttle. The angle of the picture below gives you an idea on the location, and also how tightly everything fits together. Note the cable at the top of the lever and the space on either side as it passes through when the throttle is depressed.

On the exterior of the steering issues was something I didn't mention previously. The new Wilwood rotors sat much further inward to the hub and were very close to the heatshields. So close in fact that with the factory tie rods installed, the boots pushed the shields into the rotors and would cause them to rub. I tried to get different tie rods and even shave them down, but that didn't help. I then bought an cheap angle kit like the one on my E36 to move the pivot inward and away from the rotor. The kit I bought didn't quite fit the hubs I have, so I had to mill them down on the Bridgeport. This was a fail, as even after machining them, I would need additional spacers on the brackets and special hardware. Ultimately I caved and bought a bump steer kit that uses Heim joints in place of the tie rods that allowed me the extra space. I figured these will also help with bumpsteer (duh) and the car being so low and not having power steering anyways. 
See failed E36 bracket below

And the MRT bumpsteer kit installed. Note the space between the heatshield and rotors.
Next is wiring. I started, but its nothing worth mentioning just yet. Fingered Crossed for the Picnic!

Annual first drive to work picture. 


Cruise control works. I took the actuator apart and did a better job adjusting the cable. I think there was too much slack inside the actuator before. 
 
850R is up on the lift for engine mounts, turbo rebuild, some coolant lines, and hopefully if all goes smoothed, pull the dash and fix the mounts and replace the evaporator.  
 



Not good for boost. 

That color combo 

That color combo 

110,657
Oil change and filter, just received all the VANOS rebuilt parts, valve cover gasket and a few other odds and ends so I can take care of a few leaks and the VANOS system all at once. I have a full set of coils and rear brake parts also on order to go in as soon as they get here. Planning for a trip to Voyageurs NP at the end of the month and need to make sure everything is all sorted for that.
 
In other news, the M-Systems are in the process of being refinished, they’re at the polishers getting the lips polished out then I’ll paint the centers in the stock black. Already have a set of Michelin Pilot A/S3+’s to go on. Can’t wait!

Well, the biggest issue with the car(incredibly), has been resolved. I have never had a working stereo system in this car since I bought it. I’ve used a Bluetooth speaker on my dashboard, and that shit was getting old.

I went with the tried and true Continental head unit. This was my first time doing any kind of stereo work(other than the speakers in my truck). The install was pretty straight forward, but was a little confusing at first because there weren’t some of the wires that were mentioned in the install. Realized I had to peel the loom back a little to exposed them.
Was great to hear actual music come from the speakers instead of the R2D2 noises. Heard a little bit of thump coming from the rear deck speaker. Pulled it out, realized that the little rubber seal that sits on the metal frame of the speaker had come undone in one portion. Used some flexible super glue to get it set in place.

Sounds great for what it is, and really glad to no longer use a Bluetooth speaker.
 

Picture taken last night after taking the first drive in the e30! 

Same

+1
 
The z3m roadster and coupe are mechanically the same, basically a beefed up version of the 318ti. Front suspension is e36m, rear suspension is similar to an e30 but with e36m rear brakes, much stronger axles, and everything reinforced everywhere. 

Good luck!! Really nice video, I'll be watching (and jealous of whoever the new owner is) 

+1
 
The z3m roadster and coupe are mechanically the same, basically a beefed up version of the 318ti. Front suspension is e36m, rear suspension is similar to an e30 but with e36m rear brakes, much stronger axles, and everything reinforced everywhere. 

+1
 
The z3m roadster and coupe are mechanically the same, basically a beefed up version of the 318ti. Front suspension is e36m, rear suspension is similar to an e30 but with e36m rear brakes, much stronger axles, and everything reinforced everywhere. 

Looking forward to it!

KW coilovers, Ground Control camber/caster plates, lower control arms,  TC Kline rear shock mounts, sway bar links and bushings all installed the past week or two. Had some time to do a paint correction yesterday as well as install a paint matched rear wiper delete. Getting closer to being satisfied...for now. 

Saturday, May 28th, 2022 10am-3pm
Kiwanis Village Park 
Pewaukee, WI 53072
 

What's better than having 5 vehicles? Having 6! 
A poor picture for intro, but its the only one I have right meow

This was a spur of the moment decision, and is planned to replace my truck and 1 series. 
2011 x5 35d Sports package, HUD, 360 cam, premium package, pano sunroof, and a set of snow tires + to go with it

More details / photos later

Correct
You want the lowest amount of spring force required to match the speed of the cam, as anything above is just added friction and wear. 
When you over rev the spring force is not great enough to accelerate the valve fast enough to follow the cam and you get valve float, which can in turn cause the valve to contact the piston if the discrepancy is high enough. 

I did supertech springs in my S52 head and the spring force change becomes VERY noticeable when you try to get the cams back in...

Momo makes this horn button retainer plate thing (here is one example, have no experience with this specific part though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/121532035439) that has a grounding point on it. I believe it connects the ground through the steering column like the OEM horn buttons. This is what I did on my car with some modification to the ring as I'm using a raid steering wheel (though I am using a momo wheel hub) and it works perfectly. Wired like this:

 

It's uncomfortable how easily everything comes apart on this thing... Parking brake lines running into the chassis came out without even pulling 

Tossing in riser bushings and new trailing arm bushings, rebuilding and painting the brake calipers, repainting everything, installing new brake lines, and putting it back in without a diff or axles (current ones lack grease, and diff is wrong for my application)

Progress, not engine bay though, which I'm waiting for some warmth from the elements before painting. 

That looks like exactly what I need! Thanks for that. I had no idea that existed. 

Yup, six bent exhaust valves.



More concerning is the nicks in the pistons that I think are beyond salvageable.



I'm afraid this rotating assembly is toast.