Bassboy3313

Took another crack at it with the extractor but heating it first with a torch. As I was turning the extractor with the tap handle, the entire threaded insert broke loose and fell inside the frame rail. 😳😡

Leaving me with an empty hole, a few different ideas came to mind. To keep damage to the frame rail to a minimal, I opted with opening up the hole just enough to snugly tap in a threaded coupling. Ground off the finish and applied a layer of jb weld to possibly help things hold from inside. Left it about 1/16" out from frame in order for the welds to have more surface area to mend with. 


I then welded it all around, ground it flush to frame, put a skim coat of jb weld to fill any pinholes left over and sprayed it black. Paint is still wet in pic, but you get the idea. 


Crisis averted!
 

Took another crack at it with the extractor but heating it first with a torch. As I was turning the extractor with the tap handle, the entire threaded insert broke loose and fell inside the frame rail. 😳😡

Leaving me with an empty hole, a few different ideas came to mind. To keep damage to the frame rail to a minimal, I opted with opening up the hole just enough to snugly tap in a threaded coupling. Ground off the finish and applied a layer of jb weld to possibly help things hold from inside. Left it about 1/16" out from frame in order for the welds to have more surface area to mend with. 


I then welded it all around, ground it flush to frame, put a skim coat of jb weld to fill any pinholes left over and sprayed it black. Paint is still wet in pic, but you get the idea. 


Crisis averted!
 

Took another crack at it with the extractor but heating it first with a torch. As I was turning the extractor with the tap handle, the entire threaded insert broke loose and fell inside the frame rail. 😳😡

Leaving me with an empty hole, a few different ideas came to mind. To keep damage to the frame rail to a minimal, I opted with opening up the hole just enough to snugly tap in a threaded coupling. Ground off the finish and applied a layer of jb weld to possibly help things hold from inside. Left it about 1/16" out from frame in order for the welds to have more surface area to mend with. 


I then welded it all around, ground it flush to frame, put a skim coat of jb weld to fill any pinholes left over and sprayed it black. Paint is still wet in pic, but you get the idea. 


Crisis averted!
 

This is so sick
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1994-bmw-530i-touring-5/

Lol yes! Yes it would. 

Lol. Chris was working on his motorcycle this past weekend. Out of nowhere he stopped, walked over to the engine bay and started cleaning it. I wasn't going to stop working on the intake and cv axle to stop him. 🤷‍♂️

Lol. Chris was working on his motorcycle this past weekend. Out of nowhere he stopped, walked over to the engine bay and started cleaning it. I wasn't going to stop working on the intake and cv axle to stop him. 🤷‍♂️

Lol. Chris was working on his motorcycle this past weekend. Out of nowhere he stopped, walked over to the engine bay and started cleaning it. I wasn't going to stop working on the intake and cv axle to stop him. 🤷‍♂️

I have a feeling it was this guy.....
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/d/trevor-bmw-330i-330xi-parts-part-out/7279203117.html

Isn't that where @DrLeadFoot lives?

Come pick it up in your C5

UPDATE
Got some parts in!
Throttle body coupler with 2 ports and a -4 banjo adapter for the vanos oil line.

Vibrant -4 oil feed line

 
New o rings for the injectors, new intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket for the m50 manifold side, exhaust cam sensor (found out mine was cracked), and also a centering bushing for the driveshaft.

 
and finally for parts the sleeving for the engine harness came as well.
 
While I still had the manifold on I got to setting up the new double port coupler. The reason I went with the double port one was to be able to connect the iacv separate from the diverter valve. Ended up chopping quite a bit off both sides but it fits pretty well now.

 

 
Once the throttle body elbow angle was finalized I was able to set up the IACV hoses. I ended up trimming the U shaped hose that the kit comes with because I was not liking how it was intended to sit.
Here's what I came up with.

 
This way tucks really well under the manifold when it's bolted on the engine.

 

 
I was also able to take my "prototype" power steering resiviour bracket to @Sam_Holzmann and he drew it into digital form and cut it out on the plasma. 
Here is "V1"

 
And it fits great just like the prototype version.

 
 
 

 

 
Next I got to work on finishing the engine harness. I finalized some lengths and removed the harness from the engine one last time.


 
After lengthening some leads and shortening a couple others this is the bare harness.

 
And finally after about 4 hours of looming it is complete 😁
 
Super happy with how this harness turned out. 



 
Now that the harness is done I got the new injector o-rings, throttle body gasket on the manifold side, and the 6 manifold to head gaskets.


 
I also went ahead and notched the panel that separates the ebox compartment for the engine bay where the harness is going to come through now.

 
And finally I got that new oil feed line installed along with the vanos banjo bolt fitting. The line that came with the kit was not going to work for my set up but this way worked out exactly how I had hoped and looks super clean.

 

Thats it for now! Have a few more parts to order that were further down on the immediate priority list along with figuring out how I want to run the diverter valve hoses. Then on to final assembly I think haha.
 
 
 
 
 

I’ll have to give that metal rescue a try, nice work! 

Looks like a therapeutic day in the garage. Don’t forget to remove that clutch destroyer valve and incinerate it.
Looking good man!

The metal rescue rust removal bath worked great! The exhaust manifold studs came out looking like new and the broken downpipe studs were cleaned enough to be able to be heated with a torch slightly and air hammered out with ease. I will just use a nut/bolt combo for the downpipe flange connection to make things easier. Exhaust manifolds back on the engine with new gaskets and upstream o2 sensors. Also installed the SAI block off plate on the engine as well as I dont plan on putting that back in. 
I started breaking down the passenger front axle due to a torn inner cv boot. Just gotta fill that back up with grease and clamp new boot on, then reassemble.

Also started getting the clutch lines and new slave cylinder squared away. 


Replaced driver side engine mount and the old one was squished down pretty good. Surprised there wasn't any cracking in the rubber. 

Then moved onto the dreaded intake manifold rats nest. I wanted to move everything that I could over from the B25 engine since I know that stuff worked well. Found a torn intake boot on both engines in same location (this could explain my misfire issue on B25). Will be ordering new boots along with new intake manifold gasket. I took my time marking every hose and electrical connector with different color paint markers while transferring things over to the B30 manifold. Hopefully this makes things a lot easier for reinstall. 



And all done.

 
Anybody looking for an M54B25 to buy? Would be nice to get it out of the garage, so I can pull the Z3 Coupe out to stretch its legs. 😁

The metal rescue rust removal bath worked great! The exhaust manifold studs came out looking like new and the broken downpipe studs were cleaned enough to be able to be heated with a torch slightly and air hammered out with ease. I will just use a nut/bolt combo for the downpipe flange connection to make things easier. Exhaust manifolds back on the engine with new gaskets and upstream o2 sensors. Also installed the SAI block off plate on the engine as well as I dont plan on putting that back in. 
I started breaking down the passenger front axle due to a torn inner cv boot. Just gotta fill that back up with grease and clamp new boot on, then reassemble.

Also started getting the clutch lines and new slave cylinder squared away. 


Replaced driver side engine mount and the old one was squished down pretty good. Surprised there wasn't any cracking in the rubber. 

Then moved onto the dreaded intake manifold rats nest. I wanted to move everything that I could over from the B25 engine since I know that stuff worked well. Found a torn intake boot on both engines in same location (this could explain my misfire issue on B25). Will be ordering new boots along with new intake manifold gasket. I took my time marking every hose and electrical connector with different color paint markers while transferring things over to the B30 manifold. Hopefully this makes things a lot easier for reinstall. 



And all done.

 
Anybody looking for an M54B25 to buy? Would be nice to get it out of the garage, so I can pull the Z3 Coupe out to stretch its legs. 😁

Commuted.

 

Front accessories mounted including the underdrive pulleys that came with the B30 engine. Working on replacing some rusty exhaust flange studs from the headers and slowly marking all electrical plugs before pulling the manifold off the old B25. Trying out some metal rescue rust dissolver. Letting it sit 24-36 hours and seeing what it does. 


 

Front accessories mounted including the underdrive pulleys that came with the B30 engine. Working on replacing some rusty exhaust flange studs from the headers and slowly marking all electrical plugs before pulling the manifold off the old B25. Trying out some metal rescue rust dissolver. Letting it sit 24-36 hours and seeing what it does. 


 

Engine & trans have been removed. Couple snags here and there but came out relatively easily. There always has to be an oil spill in one way shape or form as well. Found a bad inner tierod on driver side and a sheared control arm bushing bolt on passenger side from someone down the line before me. Hopefully drilling and an easy-out will fix that. 


Next is transferring all the engine accessories over from old engine to new one, buying all new hoses/lines and prepping everything for reinstall. 

Engine & trans have been removed. Couple snags here and there but came out relatively easily. There always has to be an oil spill in one way shape or form as well. Found a bad inner tierod on driver side and a sheared control arm bushing bolt on passenger side from someone down the line before me. Hopefully drilling and an easy-out will fix that. 


Next is transferring all the engine accessories over from old engine to new one, buying all new hoses/lines and prepping everything for reinstall. 

Engine & trans have been removed. Couple snags here and there but came out relatively easily. There always has to be an oil spill in one way shape or form as well. Found a bad inner tierod on driver side and a sheared control arm bushing bolt on passenger side from someone down the line before me. Hopefully drilling and an easy-out will fix that. 


Next is transferring all the engine accessories over from old engine to new one, buying all new hoses/lines and prepping everything for reinstall. 

Engine & trans have been removed. Couple snags here and there but came out relatively easily. There always has to be an oil spill in one way shape or form as well. Found a bad inner tierod on driver side and a sheared control arm bushing bolt on passenger side from someone down the line before me. Hopefully drilling and an easy-out will fix that. 


Next is transferring all the engine accessories over from old engine to new one, buying all new hoses/lines and prepping everything for reinstall. 

Engine & trans have been removed. Couple snags here and there but came out relatively easily. There always has to be an oil spill in one way shape or form as well. Found a bad inner tierod on driver side and a sheared control arm bushing bolt on passenger side from someone down the line before me. Hopefully drilling and an easy-out will fix that. 


Next is transferring all the engine accessories over from old engine to new one, buying all new hoses/lines and prepping everything for reinstall. 

Yes