GunMetalGrey

God I hope not

Same

With the volume of e30's in various states of disassembly and disrepair how does this picnic continue to go on?  Is there a WIbimmers curse where only members of this group can't manage to keep their cars roadworthy or is this epidemic nationwide?

Indeed they are. As is most sheet metal on the cars. 

The real trick is either having a TIG setup where you have excellent control over your settings and a pedal to adjust as you go, or to stitch weld everything together. 
I did rust repair on my car with a flux core harbor freight setup and it turned out quite well. Patience is key! 

Goals: Be there in a BMW that isn't Earls old e34.

Yeah we did.

Fun! At least it is a very evident issue.

Recommendation, use n54 exhaust manifold studs. They have a torx head on the end so you don't have to double nut every stud in. Doesn't really matter now, but just good info to get out there!

I'm glad to see you digging into this again! 

Fun! At least it is a very evident issue.

Recommendation, use n54 exhaust manifold studs. They have a torx head on the end so you don't have to double nut every stud in. Doesn't really matter now, but just good info to get out there!

I'm glad to see you digging into this again! 

I guess this is part of my problem, I think the car is kind of loud to be flying around neighborhoods past 4k RPM due to the beehive that is clearly angry under the hood. 
I will say that the power level isn't quite as disappointing as I remember. 

I look forward to replacing the front suspension and tie rods on this. Driving home last night on the highway with wind, grooved road, snow tires, and worn ball joints was quite a bit of work! 

Trying to slide in this in the snow is different. It lacks the power that I prefer, but lift off over-steers quite well. I could certainly do without the beehive power plant!

It's been doing me well though, and is certainly more enjoyable (even in mediocre condition) to drive than the Mazda!

So did you look at it? I am sorry for bringing out the T-stat again. I am back to voting for a blocked coolant passage somewheres.

Earl should give you free rides until he fixes it.

Agreed, though due to the noise it makes I need to do further investigation. 

I feel as though this sums up our E-Relationship quite well. 

Picked up a little treat yesterday. 
I am not actually sure what car they will end up on though lol. The initial intent was for this, but I can adapt them to the perfect offset to run some good tires on the m52 car. 
4 fronts, 2 rears. I can run a staggered set or a square set. 
 
 

CLT issue fixed. 
Started by cleaning the contacts, then pulled the ecu connector and checked for continuity between the connector for the ecu and the sensor connector. Nada. Broken wires, b but where?
Grabbed a spare harness (thanks @HipMF for hoarding m42 parts) and doubled checked my test method on a different harness and confirmed that the one in my car didn't have the cotton-nuity. 
Started pulling pieces off to gain access to the loom box under the intake and found that under the extremely brittle wire covering was a broken sensor wire, and one just barely hanging on. Patched those up and started it. CEL is gone! Car idled better than ever, and sadly there was another car in the way so I was unable to take it out to get it to temp and check the hot start issue. Though I doubt that still exists. 

Progress. 

CLT issue fixed. 
Started by cleaning the contacts, then pulled the ecu connector and checked for continuity between the connector for the ecu and the sensor connector. Nada. Broken wires, b but where?
Grabbed a spare harness (thanks @HipMF for hoarding m42 parts) and doubled checked my test method on a different harness and confirmed that the one in my car didn't have the cotton-nuity. 
Started pulling pieces off to gain access to the loom box under the intake and found that under the extremely brittle wire covering was a broken sensor wire, and one just barely hanging on. Patched those up and started it. CEL is gone! Car idled better than ever, and sadly there was another car in the way so I was unable to take it out to get it to temp and check the hot start issue. Though I doubt that still exists. 

Progress. 

I'm a little concerned as to why the first three options all have "reduce reuse recycle" on them, but no others do. 
I prefer fresh cookies that have not gone through the human body first. 

I wouldn't be so sure, that would mean they'd have to be consistently road worthy and running in order for that to happen.

In addition to the cv (moot point) The brake lines, abs sensor, parking brake cable, shock, spring, and sway bar end link. 
Not to mention the difficulty of doing the bolts on the passenger side (fuel filler neck) 

In short, I did my last one in car. 

I am starting to think my problem is not surface level. 
I massaged hoses for awhile last night, cracked the bleeder for a bit, and checked levels. 
I then went for a drive, and the coolant took awhile to get to temp but slowly started creeping past once I got there. I felt the radiator and once again just the top row was hot. 
I went to squeeze a coolant hose after shutting the car off and it was hard, much more so than normal. The rest of them were plagued by the same problem.

I am starting to think that somewhere in the cooling jacket the block was cracked when the "coolant" froze and this is causing my problems.

I started all of these lines with the letter I, so that is amusing.   

I'm a little concerned as to why the first three options all have "reduce reuse recycle" on them, but no others do. 
I prefer fresh cookies that have not gone through the human body first. 

Hi

Oh, wait. Are we not doing that this time?

The key to efficiency is to never set anything down. Once I set something down there's going to be 5 minutes of me walking around the shop looking everywhere for it...

Well who wouldn't be willing to snort water?
It amuses me that you actually think I got angry about the whole situation!