GunMetalGrey

Obviously

But

This isn’t always avoidable

I’m all for defensive driving (many years on a motorcycle) but it comes to a certain point when you need to remind a shitfuck that they are driving a 5,000lb death missile and have some form of responsibility to point it where it doesn’t run into someone.

That being said, shotgun blasts and big fireball is by far and away a better tool than a horn to keep these dipshits from running into you.

Is it a douche move? Probably.

But at least you’re not calling a towing company to come scoop your hopes and dreams up from the ditch because sally home maker merged without looking because she was pinning a new fucking casserole recipe.

Don't drive in their blind spot?

That'll hold.

Didnt make it to the event though. Other priorities and PO stupidities prevented an easy bolt in procedure. Remember the half a bolt head bolt in the diff? Yeah that's because someone drilled the diff out when they lost/stripped the original bolt. The sub frame was an easier fix and I was able to tap in new threads. Only problem I still have is that the subframe should be raised. With the 1pc driveshaft the universal joint will hit the chassis under heavy torque.
 

I was wondering if those were the right plugs and forgot to ask you about it. If you wanna check that would be cool.

The "new" harness had a square c101, and the chassis is a round c101, and the control style is very different between the two so converting it isn't super fun. There is a longer story to it, but not worth typing. 

Yep, that's etched into the glass now lol

That facebook post is certainly scary!

You mean like a certain black 1 series?
Kidding, I'm just being a dick.
Hope you get the engine thing sorted out.

Nice sleuthing. At least you found out these things before you spent a lot of time swapping it in...

my rain jacket is a women's large plastic garbage bag. *shrug*
bright side of things: wet pavement should prevent axle detonations

Not sure if it's too late to cancel your order, but if you want to save another $70 here ya go. The dual rebate is quite nice, and they have free shipping.
https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-tires/general-altimax-arctic-studdable/p/26128

Use their online chat to get them ordered, they are getting more in soon, so I would assume you can get that size. 

They are stellar tires for sure!

I was wondering if those were the right plugs and forgot to ask you about it. If you wanna check that would be cool.

The "new" harness had a square c101, and the chassis is a round c101, and the control style is very different between the two so converting it isn't super fun. There is a longer story to it, but not worth typing. 

Yep, that's etched into the glass now lol

I finally saved up enough $$$$ and picked up an engine from a local junkyard.

It came out of a 2008 335i 6MT with 91,223 miles. The car was hit pretty hard on the driver's side, so I'm not worried about flood damage or anything like that. It was also modified, so I'm hoping it was taken care of by an enthusiast.
I've noticed all index 11 injectors, an RB PCV valve/cap, and it looks spotless under the oil cap. No sludge, grime, buildup, or discoloration. Hoping this is a sign of frequent oil changes.
Hoping to start tearing the car apart so I can remove the blown motor and swap everything over before the end of the year!

Got this rolled into the shop Friday night, and got back at it! I was going to swap out wiring harnesses because I picked up a harness from another car, but after pulling the old one out and putting the new one in I realized all that was doing was adding more variables to the equation, and that's not what I needed! I put the old harness back in after cleaning up the contacts and grounds and figured I would start at square one. To my surprise it ran like it always used to, poorly, but running. I was quite excited!

I swapped in a set of projectors up front, and with the help of Mr. Mike got the relays jumped around so that I can run low beams, high beams, and the "offroad lights" which are wired up to the existing fog-light circuitry. I just need to get pigtails to connect to the 9005/9006 bulbs. 

My most immediate goals are to level the car out (spacing the front subframe down 1.5") and to get some rear flares figured out. 

The front subframe work is going to be an amusing one, as I will be keeping the motor in the same position relative to the chassis. After doing that I will start on a new skid plate and bash bar.

The ditches are trembling already...
 
 

Got this rolled into the shop Friday night, and got back at it! I was going to swap out wiring harnesses because I picked up a harness from another car, but after pulling the old one out and putting the new one in I realized all that was doing was adding more variables to the equation, and that's not what I needed! I put the old harness back in after cleaning up the contacts and grounds and figured I would start at square one. To my surprise it ran like it always used to, poorly, but running. I was quite excited!

I swapped in a set of projectors up front, and with the help of Mr. Mike got the relays jumped around so that I can run low beams, high beams, and the "offroad lights" which are wired up to the existing fog-light circuitry. I just need to get pigtails to connect to the 9005/9006 bulbs. 

My most immediate goals are to level the car out (spacing the front subframe down 1.5") and to get some rear flares figured out. 

The front subframe work is going to be an amusing one, as I will be keeping the motor in the same position relative to the chassis. After doing that I will start on a new skid plate and bash bar.

The ditches are trembling already...
 
 

Finally got the car registered and did some driving. It did pretty well, but the chassis isn't exactly confidence-inspiring with bad subframe bushings. Also had some shimmy through the steering wheel and vibration that feels like a wheel out of balance.
Got the car up in the air at the shop and was still really impressed with how clean the undercarriage is. No rust surprises at all. Giubo looked great. Fuel filter has definitely been changed and looked relatively new. Exhaust is solid, although seems to be missing a hanger somewhere (no support at all between the header and the rear subframe). Trans-mount bushings are super soft and need to be replaced.  Insulation in the front of the tunnel is drooping and wore the paint off the driveshaft. All-in-all, not bad at all.
Also did a quick alignment using the string method. Had almost 3/8" of toe-in on the front. Dialed it back to about 1/3rd that amount. That took care of about 80% of the shimmy and the car feels less dart-y now. There's still definitely something amiss in the rear. So far, I like the car and am hoping to have it far a few years, so I'm currently planing on dropping the subframe and doing all-of-the-things "while I'm in there".

Brought it into work today and asked some plastic process engineers. They all said it’ll be good.
At least now I have people to blame if it does fail

I know that would make me feel warm and fuzzy with my purchase=)

This is coming back in the shop!

Going to be replacing the engine harness as I have learned that E's have very volatile wiring. Hopefully that is the running issue I have been having!  

This is coming back in the shop!

Going to be replacing the engine harness as I have learned that E's have very volatile wiring. Hopefully that is the running issue I have been having!  

^I have used FCP for quite some time now when it comes to suspension bits. Their prices are good and they back their parts, well, forever. I put that to use once and it was painless. 

Also, don't buy URO parts. They are bad 

This is coming back in the shop!

Going to be replacing the engine harness as I have learned that E's have very volatile wiring. Hopefully that is the running issue I have been having!  

Ignorance is bliss, let the man be blissful

Well the 3M stuff didn’t really pan out, as expected. Returning that stuff tomorrow.


However I remembered I had a plastic welder collecting dust so I figured why not give it a go. Worst thing that happens is I can’t fix it & buy a new one (avoiding at all costs)


What follows is the progression of my frugality.





Swiss cheesed (4 holes total)





2 done, these were the smaller ones and were pretty easy to fill





I used aluminum foil held on with duct tape as backing for the larger holes





All done. I let it harden up a bit, then went back and took care of any low and thin spots




I tried pushing and poking at it to see if I could crack it or separate it & I could not. We’ll see how long it lasts

$225 saved.

This is coming back in the shop!

Going to be replacing the engine harness as I have learned that E's have very volatile wiring. Hopefully that is the running issue I have been having!  

He's going to be showing his true colors now and getting a Subaru.