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The Gang Buys a E70 xDrive35d


YoungCR

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4 hours ago, YoungCR said:

Haven’t come across this channel, looks like great content!

Thanks! Eager to get all the boxes of parts out of my living room but it’s too damn hot to wrench for 2-3 days straight. Hopefully end of next month I can tackle the rest of the jobs.

Favorite channel on YouTube. Videos are great, I’ve watched all of them 

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  • 3 months later...

Behind on updates but October's project was the 100k service punch list. I won't be doing a project this big again without a garage, setup/organization and mainly weather dragged this out over 3.5 weekends for me but I'd say its a solid 3-4 day amount of wrenching for all of this. Overall the work itself wasn't as daunting as I anticipated.

Im guessing this engine had a walnut blast at some point, the worst build up was in the intake runners themselves but the valves had minimal carbon buildup so I ended up not performing a walnut blast. 

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I had read online somewhere that somebody just soaked their intake manifold in ZEP Industrial Purple Degreaser so I gave it a shot and was pleased with the results. Menards has 5 gal jugs so I dumped all of that in and then added another 3ish gallons of water to get the intake completely submerged but wanted to keep the concentrate as strong as possible. 

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I ended up soaking it for a week, the runners came out almost perfect. All the heavy build up was taken care of but there were still sections of minimal surface buildup that was really baked on. I did pressure wash as well to clean out debris and I was able to get a little bit more of the surface buildup off but not too much.

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I think with another treatment of Liquid Moly Diesel Purge the valves will be in great shape as well. One thing that wasn't one the recommended parts list was 11612246949, the mating gaskets for the intake bolts. The metal washer was either rusted or separating from the gasket on about half of mine. I wanna say it was a 16mm I used to seat them.

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I did a majority of the jobs in 3 groups: top, front and exhaust side of the motor. I mainly referred to the TIS on instructions and torque values but the TME YouTube videos were a great help too for some tips/shortcuts. For doing the flywheel I did buy CTA Tools 2890 BMW T.D.C. Pin for locking the crank but that particular tool was just too long to fit into the access hole. I had bought a generic version of special tool 118180 per the TIS for walnut blasting so I ended up locking the crank that way. More expensive tool but easier to work with and I can use it on my other cars as well.

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Per the TIS the factory M57 water pump gasket is integrated with another cover gasket and needs to be chiseled off at the 3 tabs. These are the 3 locations to take some of the guess work out as there wasn't a diagram. 

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The clutched alternator pulley also wasn't on my list and luckily TME had just a couple left in stock at the time. I did not end up doing the belt tensioner as the tube is seized into the motor. The idler pulley was already updated so I'm saving that battle for another day. Apparently removing the alternator and mounts below will gain more access into pulling that out. Took me quite a few tries to get the A/C belt back on as well as it kept being off by 1 rib. 

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Didn't get pics but now that I have an air compressor I bought a UView 550000 as someone else on here had recommended a while back and holy shit was it worth every penny. It took me more time to mix the coolant concentrate then to fill the system itself to capacity and having the peace of mind knowing there weren't any leaks beforehand was great too. The UView 550500 is the all plastic economy version and cheaper yet HF has a Maddox clone now too but I preferred the metal body/fittings for just a bit more. 

Valve cover gasket was easy and I was happy with how things looked under there.

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Besides the removal/install of the charge pipes, my other least favorite part of this project was the vacuum block. It's just a rats nest of plugs in a tight space to get it off but install is easier than removal.

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Still have a few things to button up but for the most part the motor is back in shape and we've continued to rack up the miles on this. Of course shutting the hood after finishing everything, the latch sounded different. Few days later when I went to add washer fluid I found out the passenger side latch is jammed or broke. Cables are all pretty stretched at this point but I tried the 3/16 rod trick to push on the latch through the gap between on the side of the radiator but it still won't release. So I get to perform another surgery this weekend 🙄

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  • 7 months later...

Behind on updates but this has cracked 170k now. Starting a few months ago we were having intermittent power loss while driving on the freeway which slowly progressed to shutting off at idle as well. Initially there was a code for the fuel rail pressure sensor and lots of random electrical issues like the trailer wiring plug? I had cleared those and the pressure sensor didn't come back but then a code for the crank sensor popped up. It had gotten to the point where the X5 was hard to restart after dying. It had been about 30k since the fuel filter was done so I replaced that which helped with starting but still had power cutting out at 18-1900rpm on the interstate occasionally and still often at idle when hot. The crank sensor code hadn't come back but at $60 and some mentions online that was a cause for shutting off at idle I figured I'd give that a shot.

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Leave it to BMW to put the sensor underneath the starter 🙄 Wasn't too bad of a job though and it seemingly fixed the issue. It did shut off at idle once 5 days after replacement but hasn't happened after so still keeping an eye on things. I had replaced the engine ground strap as well so when things cool down weather wise I plan to pull the injectors and flow test them. It's just odd not getting a CEL or consistent codes for any of these issues.

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It was time for new tires which meant finishing the suspension refresh as well. Installed the lemforder kit from FCP along with sway bar links and sachs shocks. I learned my lesson on not checking the repair manual for special tools as standard small ball joint tool any auto stores carry wont fit and 2wd/4wd service kits dont work either. Luckily this 22-36mm Heavy Duty Ball Joint Separator was available next day and pop them out with 2-3 turns.

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As much as it sucks to take all those covers off they sure do a good job of keeping things clean. One note that isn't specifically mentioned on the TIS is that the top hat is labeled for the #1 stud. I had accidentally installed them rotated 90 degrees for each side which cost me a lot of time compressing the springs again.

X5 drives amazing now with Michelin Defender LTX's and the refreshed suspension. Steering is very precise and handles like new. Next on the list is to address the leaky charge pipes.

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Suspension looks identical to the F gen - I did the same thing with the top hats too lol. From my recollection they're actually slightly angled. Also, which spring compressor do you have? Looking for a new one after my cheapo amazon one blew up in my face.

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4 hours ago, pynacl said:

Suspension looks identical to the F gen - I did the same thing with the top hats too lol. From my recollection they're actually slightly angled. Also, which spring compressor do you have? Looking for a new one after my cheapo amazon one blew up in my face.

From what I've read F15's were a slightly updated E70 underpinnings. Unfortunately I was using a screw type OTC 7294 but after wasting 4 hours cranking those things I ordered this and have it waiting for me for the next spring job. They make a 3ton as well but its only like $20 cheaper but that was available on prime. This was delivered directly in like 4days.

https://www.vevor.com/strut-spring-compressor-c_10324/vevor-strut-spring-compressor-4-5-ton-9920-lbs-hydraulic-jack-capacity-1-ton-rated-compression-force-auto-strut-coil-spring-compressor-tool-hydraulic-spring-compressor-for-strut-spring-removing-p_010965229806

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I know I'm N47, but do you use a fuel stabilizer or fuel additive? I add some PowerService or DieselKleen every handful of fill ups (4-8) depending on the amount I fill up or the timeline since my last fill as I don't drive the car all the time. I also swap out my fuel filter every other oil change (10k miles). I know BMW says not to use additives, and its a mix of reviews online, but if gives me a piece of mind that I'm doing "something" to treat the fuel and prevent issues as not all Diesel is the same and its a sticky substance.

Its wild that something like a crank sensor can cause such bizarre unrelated codes 🙄. I hope that was your fix! 

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So far so good 🤞 I had not religiously used any additives except for the Liquid Moly system cleaning kit FCP sells initially but I’m now adding in Power Service every tank that I fill up or when I remember to toss some in while at home.

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