KaiserRolls

Thanks for all of the detail!!  My garage has no room for a 2 or four post so I've been thinking about a QJ off and on.
You also anticipated my next question about where to actually lift on the e30 with the QJ given the typical abused pinch welds. Much appreciated!

It’s the quick jack 5000TL (110v) So far have had evo x, nb miata & e30 up on it. Nb miata is about the smallest wheelbase I think you could fit with it.
Works well with the e30, I’m lifting off the subframe pinch weld connector area (added “race German” extended plates) & pinch weld under the front of the door.


Once you figure out which liftblocks/orientation works best for the car, setup is a breeze.

They are a little on the cumbersome side for maneuverability, the wheels they have on them are hilariously small - but I really didn’t have the room for a 2 post lift.
these store nicely against my wall on the hooks when not in use. 


super easy setup, bleeding them was kind of annoying as the ATF went everywhere. I opted to use Teflon tape instead of the “updated” pneumatic sealant they provide. (They used to all ship with Teflon tape, but apparently people couldn’t figure out how to tape things and sent it into the pump) 
Here are the 2 locking positions when using the tall blocks
Lowest lock


highest lock

 
these pics are only using the “tall” set of lift blocks, they include both a short/tall set that do have the ability to be stacked together, I don’t do that though 
Because of how they lift, the car will move about 12” front to rear, just something to keep in mind if you don’t have much room in front of/behind the car 
what’s nice is if you plan on the car being up for a while (lol) you can lower the jacks onto the locks and disconnect all the lines 
I waited for a while for these to go on sale and due to some Home Depot shipping mess ups, ended up getting these for like $1200. 
overall I really like them, changing wheels/tires/oil changes/bleeding brakes is all super easy
 

@Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool. 
 
the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born. 
in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol
 
Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol

 

 
Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist 

 
all jacked up and bolted in

intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3 
next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc

Nice work!
I also noticed the Quickjack (?) in the latest picture. Experience with it so far?   

Wiring in the engine bay is done now, IAT wiring shares the same loom with my VDO gauge wiring & obviously the wideband is it’s own thing. Both have been grounded 
The only wiring left is to add the MS3 pigtail to the wideband analog output(yellow) and the MS3 Pigtail to the IAT wire(brown), both of which meet up in the glovebox. Vac source for the MS3 is waiting in the glovebox as well. 


I still need to bolt down the intake manifold, cut fuel lines to proper length, trim vac line for the FPR, install fuel rail, injectors, injector harness, throttle body, intake. 
will need to add oil, PS fluid & coolant eventually.

 
coolant will most likely be the last thing as I need to verify base timing with MS3 and it’s way easier to do that without a radiator in the way. 
intake tube also needs a bung welded to it for the sensor. 
Catch can location TBD
eventually once the intake/air filter are in their final spot I want to build an ‘air box’ of sorts or just a heat shield for the filter. Bought some 3D printed brake duct adapters that will be feeding the air filter area with air that isn’t coming directly off the hot radiator 
still need to trim that hose a bunch, just tossed it in to see if it could make the right bends 
might work on it a bit more tonight to get some more engine bay stuff wrapped up, would be fun to attempt a start this weekend
I’m using an OBD2 valve cover with OBD1 harness. I hate painting, so plastic it is. also using the m52 oil filter housing instead of the metal lid s52 OFH - mainly because when I was running the m52 I bought a brand new PS pump for it & the OFHs are slightly different with pump mounting. 

Mirrors still folded in as it’s still in storage lol
 

I am both amused and amazed at the 2x4 crank holder

Bravo sir

I am impressed it held up to that (once)

Engine bay is looking quite clean! I look forward to seeing videos of non lifter tick auto-x runs!

Wiring in the engine bay is done now, IAT wiring shares the same loom with my VDO gauge wiring & obviously the wideband is it’s own thing. Both have been grounded 
The only wiring left is to add the MS3 pigtail to the wideband analog output(yellow) and the MS3 Pigtail to the IAT wire(brown), both of which meet up in the glovebox. Vac source for the MS3 is waiting in the glovebox as well. 


I still need to bolt down the intake manifold, cut fuel lines to proper length, trim vac line for the FPR, install fuel rail, injectors, injector harness, throttle body, intake. 
will need to add oil, PS fluid & coolant eventually.

 
coolant will most likely be the last thing as I need to verify base timing with MS3 and it’s way easier to do that without a radiator in the way. 
intake tube also needs a bung welded to it for the sensor. 
Catch can location TBD
eventually once the intake/air filter are in their final spot I want to build an ‘air box’ of sorts or just a heat shield for the filter. Bought some 3D printed brake duct adapters that will be feeding the air filter area with air that isn’t coming directly off the hot radiator 
still need to trim that hose a bunch, just tossed it in to see if it could make the right bends 
might work on it a bit more tonight to get some more engine bay stuff wrapped up, would be fun to attempt a start this weekend
I’m using an OBD2 valve cover with OBD1 harness. I hate painting, so plastic it is. also using the m52 oil filter housing instead of the metal lid s52 OFH - mainly because when I was running the m52 I bought a brand new PS pump for it & the OFHs are slightly different with pump mounting. 

Mirrors still folded in as it’s still in storage lol
 

This is where I stopped over the weekend. Heater core/expansion tank lines are in. Most of the wiring harness is in. 
since I’m going with MS3, I don’t need to use the factory O2, MAF, or IAT wiring- I still left them in the harness just in case, but tucked them out of the way. 
wideband O2 is routed, just needs to be wired. IAT wiring is most likely next up

 

P R O C R A S T I N A T I O N 
Yeah so I didn't really work on the harness. BUT! I have accomplished some other things. I had Tim come by and 3D scan my engine bay which was a pretty neat ordeal. I wanted to get a CAD file of my engine bay and hardtop for reference files to allow me to create models for reinforcing my firewall, filler panels to give the bay more symmetry, and the hardtop to build a jig for the Lexan. Tim also traded in his F90 M5 Comp for a G20 M340 and he wanted to swap grills right away. So for fun, this is what 7th gen 3series grills look like on a second gen 3series E30. 

Anyways I also got around to ordering and installing some more parts. I finally finished up relocating the fuel lines because of the steering shaft / starter interference. I unfortunately think I will end up redoing these lines because they are still factory 8mm -5/16 hardlines up until they get to the bottom of the firewall where I adapted them to braided -6AN that goes to the fuel rail and regulator. I think that once I get the car running again and start tuning I will add more fuel and boost, and the 8mm factory lines will limit my flowrate. But for now, its good till I cross that bridge.
(Sorry I have no pictures of this)^^
I also ordered everything needed for the remote oil cooler. I got a Chase Bays thermostatic oil cooler wedge plate, HKS filter, -10 fittings (x2 45's| x2 60's), way too much -10 braided line, and I had a cooler that Chubs made a few years ago. I was debating on the line routing, but after I made the lines, it seems like both options I was considering will work if I need to move the lines up in the future. 

Option 1

Option 2

The result


And I also painted the far edge of the oil cooler as I didn't want the offset of the cooler to throw off the factory look of the car through the kidneys.

Also not shown, I installed a new oil pan as the one I had was dented since I got it. With that, I also started to reroute my dipstick as it is one of the biggest sys sores in the engine bay IMO. I got about 90% done making a new dipstick, and wasn't sold on how it looked, so I ordered a Lokar locking flexible billet dipstick that I will mount down near the cooler oil filter and out of the way. Besides that, I feel pretty good and the oil system is all buttoned back up!
My next task is going to install the stereo and get that out of the way. I have everything besides drivers and I want to get all the chassis side of the wiring complete before( warning: procrastination excuse)  I move onto the engine harness.  
 

Well according to some of you guys, I definitely have an addiction then lol. I ran out of room at my house so I brought my F80 to my parents house. And I have two 135i's that don't run, and one 335i that barely limps along. The F80 and my other E90 are my only working BMWs 😆
I'm glad I have a good support system here though, fellow BMW owners who can relate and encourage me to keep being irresponsible.
Anyways, I got a DME, CAS, JBE and key from a part out to get this 135i back together. I also pulled the cluster and powered it up externally to see if it really had 11k miles, then tried firing the old girl up after sitting for years.
Couldn't get her to kick over on her own, but she did after I dumped a little fuel down the intake. If anyone has ideas on what I could do to get this thing to fire up under it's own power, please let me know.

I wanted to share a giveaway I just launched with my fellow WI Bimmers peeps. As I dive into this full-time content creator life, I'm trying to sell more of my BMW-inspired merch. What better way to do that than to do the infamous "buy a t-shirt, win a car" method!? Except I'm not in a position to give away a car... so instead, I'm giving away a Doc Race N54 intake manifold, or $1,000 cash if you're not into unreliable N54-powered BMWs.
Buy anything from my website and you'll automatically be entered to win: https://bimmerstreet.com
You'll get 5 entries for every $1 you spend. So if you buy a $5 decal, you'll get 25 entries. If you spend $100 on a hoodie, a couple t-shirts, and a keytag, you'll get 500 entries (+10 bonus entries for spending over $100). It's pretty simple.
If you’ve wanted to show support for all of the BMW content I've created over the years, this is a great way to do so. Not only will you get something physical in return, but you’ll have a chance to win big!

@Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool. 
 
the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born. 
in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol
 
Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol

 

 
Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist 

 
all jacked up and bolted in

intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3 
next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc

It is stainless steel, that is a grease zerk
 
https://leogranderacing.com/products/greasable-stainless-steel-clutch-fork-pivot-pin

@Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool. 
 
the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born. 
in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol
 
Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol

 

 
Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist 

 
all jacked up and bolted in

intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3 
next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc

Only an issue when you run out of room for them 

This is where I stopped over the weekend. Heater core/expansion tank lines are in. Most of the wiring harness is in. 
since I’m going with MS3, I don’t need to use the factory O2, MAF, or IAT wiring- I still left them in the harness just in case, but tucked them out of the way. 
wideband O2 is routed, just needs to be wired. IAT wiring is most likely next up

 

This is where I stopped over the weekend. Heater core/expansion tank lines are in. Most of the wiring harness is in. 
since I’m going with MS3, I don’t need to use the factory O2, MAF, or IAT wiring- I still left them in the harness just in case, but tucked them out of the way. 
wideband O2 is routed, just needs to be wired. IAT wiring is most likely next up

 

This is where I stopped over the weekend. Heater core/expansion tank lines are in. Most of the wiring harness is in. 
since I’m going with MS3, I don’t need to use the factory O2, MAF, or IAT wiring- I still left them in the harness just in case, but tucked them out of the way. 
wideband O2 is routed, just needs to be wired. IAT wiring is most likely next up

 

Car is on the ground after like 14 months on jackstands lol - slapped the driveshaft/exhaust/heat shields back in, got the front suspension in and torqued. Bled the brakes/clutch and thankfully had no leaks after I remade all the lines when I ditched the abs. Shouldnt reeeeaally need to get back under the car anymore other than to hook up the wideband 
 
the press was able to straighten out the bend in the skid plate pretty easily 


Tomorrow going to start on the wiring in the engine bay/wideband/possibly IAT sensor.
 

@Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool. 
 
the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born. 
in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol
 
Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol

 

 
Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist 

 
all jacked up and bolted in

intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3 
next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc

Car is on the ground after like 14 months on jackstands lol - slapped the driveshaft/exhaust/heat shields back in, got the front suspension in and torqued. Bled the brakes/clutch and thankfully had no leaks after I remade all the lines when I ditched the abs. Shouldnt reeeeaally need to get back under the car anymore other than to hook up the wideband 
 
the press was able to straighten out the bend in the skid plate pretty easily 


Tomorrow going to start on the wiring in the engine bay/wideband/possibly IAT sensor.
 

Car is on the ground after like 14 months on jackstands lol - slapped the driveshaft/exhaust/heat shields back in, got the front suspension in and torqued. Bled the brakes/clutch and thankfully had no leaks after I remade all the lines when I ditched the abs. Shouldnt reeeeaally need to get back under the car anymore other than to hook up the wideband 
 
the press was able to straighten out the bend in the skid plate pretty easily 


Tomorrow going to start on the wiring in the engine bay/wideband/possibly IAT sensor.
 

Literally took 15 mins to get the engine from outside and bolted up inside. Extremely fast!

@Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool. 
 
the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born. 
in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol
 
Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol

 

 
Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist 

 
all jacked up and bolted in

intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3 
next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc

@Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool. 
 
the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born. 
in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol
 
Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol

 

 
Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist 

 
all jacked up and bolted in

intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3 
next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc