straight6pwr

more pics/info on your e34! 

its very sad that the holy grail of e90s has red accents thrown about the interior like a 90s honda civic who's teenage owner found a can of red spray paint in dad's garage. 

more pics/info on your e34! 

I also had a failing headliner so i tackled that job at the same time. very tedious project, but doable. considering the cost to DIY is like $75 compared to 600+ for a shop, it is worth it. apparently volvo used 'environmentally friendly' glues that just dont hold up over time.
I used this ebay vendor for the headliner material. it comes shipped in a roll (important), was a close match to the grey, and was the correct size to do the headliner + sunroof panel. i ended up using two cans of 3M headliner and fabric adhesive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/280980573545?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
this diy was great for the process of gluing on the new fabric: 
 
this is how the old material looked as it was falling apart

to get the headliner board out you have to remove: visors, oh-shit handles, sunroof switch/dome light panel, cargo net clips, rear dome light, rear trim at the tailgate, A pillars, D pillars, front and rear seats, one half of the cargo area carpet/plastic covers/spare tire foam, seat belt retractor. you also have to pull all of the wiring that is glued to the top of the headliner off. its a stupid design, the harness connects somewhere inside the dash so there is no way to unplug it, you have to just leave it hanging. 

the panel will barely (not really) squeeze through the rear tailgate. you will be bending the edges pretty harshly to get it in and out.


no pictures of the process of gluing the headliner fabric on, see the youtube DIY above. it turned out 8/10, with a couple of wrinkles and the areas where the handles go are too stretched. but in reality,  no one will notice unless i mention it. 

the fabric was a good match. I think it was actually nicer stuff than the original. much better texture, better cut resistance, a slight sheen. 

probably the worst bit of this job was reattaching all the wires to the top of the headliner. after putting the headliner back in the car, you have to lay the wiring back across in its original position and hot glue it back into place. i used gaffer tape to hold it in place as the glue set. the wiring runs across the front windshield area, and also snakes backwards and across the center of the car to the two rear dome lights. a simple harness plug in the a pillar could have made this 1,000,000 times easier. 

 

headliner back in place. the four cargo net clips have bolts inside so they hold it up best while you attach everything else. 

and voila. 

I also had a failing headliner so i tackled that job at the same time. very tedious project, but doable. considering the cost to DIY is like $75 compared to 600+ for a shop, it is worth it. apparently volvo used 'environmentally friendly' glues that just dont hold up over time.
I used this ebay vendor for the headliner material. it comes shipped in a roll (important), was a close match to the grey, and was the correct size to do the headliner + sunroof panel. i ended up using two cans of 3M headliner and fabric adhesive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/280980573545?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
this diy was great for the process of gluing on the new fabric: 
 
this is how the old material looked as it was falling apart

to get the headliner board out you have to remove: visors, oh-shit handles, sunroof switch/dome light panel, cargo net clips, rear dome light, rear trim at the tailgate, A pillars, D pillars, front and rear seats, one half of the cargo area carpet/plastic covers/spare tire foam, seat belt retractor. you also have to pull all of the wiring that is glued to the top of the headliner off. its a stupid design, the harness connects somewhere inside the dash so there is no way to unplug it, you have to just leave it hanging. 

the panel will barely (not really) squeeze through the rear tailgate. you will be bending the edges pretty harshly to get it in and out.


no pictures of the process of gluing the headliner fabric on, see the youtube DIY above. it turned out 8/10, with a couple of wrinkles and the areas where the handles go are too stretched. but in reality,  no one will notice unless i mention it. 

the fabric was a good match. I think it was actually nicer stuff than the original. much better texture, better cut resistance, a slight sheen. 

probably the worst bit of this job was reattaching all the wires to the top of the headliner. after putting the headliner back in the car, you have to lay the wiring back across in its original position and hot glue it back into place. i used gaffer tape to hold it in place as the glue set. the wiring runs across the front windshield area, and also snakes backwards and across the center of the car to the two rear dome lights. a simple harness plug in the a pillar could have made this 1,000,000 times easier. 

 

headliner back in place. the four cargo net clips have bolts inside so they hold it up best while you attach everything else. 

and voila. 

I also had a failing headliner so i tackled that job at the same time. very tedious project, but doable. considering the cost to DIY is like $75 compared to 600+ for a shop, it is worth it. apparently volvo used 'environmentally friendly' glues that just dont hold up over time.
I used this ebay vendor for the headliner material. it comes shipped in a roll (important), was a close match to the grey, and was the correct size to do the headliner + sunroof panel. i ended up using two cans of 3M headliner and fabric adhesive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/280980573545?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
this diy was great for the process of gluing on the new fabric: 
 
this is how the old material looked as it was falling apart

to get the headliner board out you have to remove: visors, oh-shit handles, sunroof switch/dome light panel, cargo net clips, rear dome light, rear trim at the tailgate, A pillars, D pillars, front and rear seats, one half of the cargo area carpet/plastic covers/spare tire foam, seat belt retractor. you also have to pull all of the wiring that is glued to the top of the headliner off. its a stupid design, the harness connects somewhere inside the dash so there is no way to unplug it, you have to just leave it hanging. 

the panel will barely (not really) squeeze through the rear tailgate. you will be bending the edges pretty harshly to get it in and out.


no pictures of the process of gluing the headliner fabric on, see the youtube DIY above. it turned out 8/10, with a couple of wrinkles and the areas where the handles go are too stretched. but in reality,  no one will notice unless i mention it. 

the fabric was a good match. I think it was actually nicer stuff than the original. much better texture, better cut resistance, a slight sheen. 

probably the worst bit of this job was reattaching all the wires to the top of the headliner. after putting the headliner back in the car, you have to lay the wiring back across in its original position and hot glue it back into place. i used gaffer tape to hold it in place as the glue set. the wiring runs across the front windshield area, and also snakes backwards and across the center of the car to the two rear dome lights. a simple harness plug in the a pillar could have made this 1,000,000 times easier. 

 

headliner back in place. the four cargo net clips have bolts inside so they hold it up best while you attach everything else. 

and voila. 

I also had a failing headliner so i tackled that job at the same time. very tedious project, but doable. considering the cost to DIY is like $75 compared to 600+ for a shop, it is worth it. apparently volvo used 'environmentally friendly' glues that just dont hold up over time.
I used this ebay vendor for the headliner material. it comes shipped in a roll (important), was a close match to the grey, and was the correct size to do the headliner + sunroof panel. i ended up using two cans of 3M headliner and fabric adhesive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/280980573545?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
this diy was great for the process of gluing on the new fabric: 
 
this is how the old material looked as it was falling apart

to get the headliner board out you have to remove: visors, oh-shit handles, sunroof switch/dome light panel, cargo net clips, rear dome light, rear trim at the tailgate, A pillars, D pillars, front and rear seats, one half of the cargo area carpet/plastic covers/spare tire foam, seat belt retractor. you also have to pull all of the wiring that is glued to the top of the headliner off. its a stupid design, the harness connects somewhere inside the dash so there is no way to unplug it, you have to just leave it hanging. 

the panel will barely (not really) squeeze through the rear tailgate. you will be bending the edges pretty harshly to get it in and out.


no pictures of the process of gluing the headliner fabric on, see the youtube DIY above. it turned out 8/10, with a couple of wrinkles and the areas where the handles go are too stretched. but in reality,  no one will notice unless i mention it. 

the fabric was a good match. I think it was actually nicer stuff than the original. much better texture, better cut resistance, a slight sheen. 

probably the worst bit of this job was reattaching all the wires to the top of the headliner. after putting the headliner back in the car, you have to lay the wiring back across in its original position and hot glue it back into place. i used gaffer tape to hold it in place as the glue set. the wiring runs across the front windshield area, and also snakes backwards and across the center of the car to the two rear dome lights. a simple harness plug in the a pillar could have made this 1,000,000 times easier. 

 

headliner back in place. the four cargo net clips have bolts inside so they hold it up best while you attach everything else. 

and voila. 

I also had a failing headliner so i tackled that job at the same time. very tedious project, but doable. considering the cost to DIY is like $75 compared to 600+ for a shop, it is worth it. apparently volvo used 'environmentally friendly' glues that just dont hold up over time.
I used this ebay vendor for the headliner material. it comes shipped in a roll (important), was a close match to the grey, and was the correct size to do the headliner + sunroof panel. i ended up using two cans of 3M headliner and fabric adhesive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/280980573545?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
this diy was great for the process of gluing on the new fabric: 
 
this is how the old material looked as it was falling apart

to get the headliner board out you have to remove: visors, oh-shit handles, sunroof switch/dome light panel, cargo net clips, rear dome light, rear trim at the tailgate, A pillars, D pillars, front and rear seats, one half of the cargo area carpet/plastic covers/spare tire foam, seat belt retractor. you also have to pull all of the wiring that is glued to the top of the headliner off. its a stupid design, the harness connects somewhere inside the dash so there is no way to unplug it, you have to just leave it hanging. 

the panel will barely (not really) squeeze through the rear tailgate. you will be bending the edges pretty harshly to get it in and out.


no pictures of the process of gluing the headliner fabric on, see the youtube DIY above. it turned out 8/10, with a couple of wrinkles and the areas where the handles go are too stretched. but in reality,  no one will notice unless i mention it. 

the fabric was a good match. I think it was actually nicer stuff than the original. much better texture, better cut resistance, a slight sheen. 

probably the worst bit of this job was reattaching all the wires to the top of the headliner. after putting the headliner back in the car, you have to lay the wiring back across in its original position and hot glue it back into place. i used gaffer tape to hold it in place as the glue set. the wiring runs across the front windshield area, and also snakes backwards and across the center of the car to the two rear dome lights. a simple harness plug in the a pillar could have made this 1,000,000 times easier. 

 

headliner back in place. the four cargo net clips have bolts inside so they hold it up best while you attach everything else. 

and voila. 

i think it was a good choice to return, considering the pitting is not repairable. had similar pitting on one my e34 calipers that ended up nearly locked up. now, the guide pins were pretty bad too, so its hard to say which was the #1 culprit, but they would have bad hard to trust as a rebuild.  

right hand drive...check
touring...check
tds engine...check
a kick in the nuts, should you ever need parts 

would you like this thread closed or?
😪
whats next?!

that wagon is sweet! too bad rhd, definitely a deal breaker for anyone who realizes how much of a pain in the balls that would be. 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1432455556925032/
 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1432455556925032/
 

is that transom going to remove itself from the boat on the first hole shot? 

build the shed. put a sign up that says "chicken coop". stick a stuffed chicken in there. leave a little chicken wire on the side. you technically have a building used to house a chicken. 

 

build the shed. put a sign up that says "chicken coop". stick a stuffed chicken in there. leave a little chicken wire on the side. you technically have a building used to house a chicken. 

 

check your sump pumps!

lolol
i dont have video editing abilities so e30 text version:
show e30 dashboard, insert key, start car, pan up to check control, push button, no lights, happy crying people, pan down to cluster, no lights, more crying.

lolol
i dont have video editing abilities so e30 text version:
show e30 dashboard, insert key, start car, pan up to check control, push button, no lights, happy crying people, pan down to cluster, no lights, more crying.

lolol
i dont have video editing abilities so e30 text version:
show e30 dashboard, insert key, start car, pan up to check control, push button, no lights, happy crying people, pan down to cluster, no lights, more crying.

lolol
i dont have video editing abilities so e30 text version:
show e30 dashboard, insert key, start car, pan up to check control, push button, no lights, happy crying people, pan down to cluster, no lights, more crying.

if you want the 4-post to be easily accessible without dollies or austin-powers hallway Y turns.
yellow area = clear area. gives access for vehicles and equipment into both lifts, lawn area and storage area.
also  the "work area" with tool boxes and work benches are near both lifts
the storage area leaves room for storage of one or two more vehicles in the inevitable event you have that need, and is also easy to just drive into (no jostling if the clear area is clear)

metal closet door top track (box style):
https://www.cabinetparts.com/p/johnson-hardware-sliding-door-hardware-bifold-sliding-door-hardware-JH10072-p29164?gclid=CjwKCAiA9bmABhBbEiwASb35V_gvQ82HtRxUtxX-uosKcwr0wFqkYpvG2oQFB38EMm2pLr3NyPDSZxoCWDAQAvD_BwE
+ hook setup:  big eye hook (pry open) with machine threads + 2 lock nuts + nylon washers/regular washers. maybe electrical tape or plastic dip to coat the hooks and not scratch your rims. 
or 
iron pipes with some sort of hook setup around the pipes. that industrial look is all the rage these days. 
obviously dont buy from amazon, but this sorta setup on the wall:  https://www.amazon.com/Turnbull-Farms-Industrial-Pipe-Curtain/dp/B01EKNPGLK
maybe with figure eight hooks, bent as needed. 
 
 

Sometimes I acknowledge its “just a car” and I want to enjoy it year round with some snow tires on.