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Thoughts On Driveshaft Mounted Ebrake


jc43089

Question

So in my quest of fanciness and simplicity...  It crossed my mind from my browsing on 4x4 forums that a popular thing to do is a transfer case mounted disk type parking brake.  Typically done when rear drums are swapped for a disc system that has no mechanical parking brake provisions. 

 

This is for my e36, I have e46 330 front brakes and am thinking about what to do for a brake upgrade in the back, I would like to get rid of my backing plates (mine are shot) but they are necessary to the ebrake drum system.

 

I realize the brake size "upgrades" just increase unsprung weight, are not necessary and I could probably just use quality pads etc.  But big brakes do look cool.  I would probably use e36 m3 or e46 330 rears.  ABS is removed and I will probably be doing a booster delete and using an aftermarket proportioning valve to dial it in.

 

 

Only issue I can think of is space (I do have a big hammer and a welder),

 

1. Is this a stupid idea?

 

2. My car is so far from drive-able that it is not something I should think about right now.

 

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Off roaders typically mount them on the back of the transfer case so the are up out of the way. I would think the cv joints are under much more strain when under clutch kicking shenanigans? This would be just to keep it from rolling away when getting out with it running or the rare event of brake failure.

Sent from my potato phone

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If your just using it as a PARKING (not emergency) brake then I don't see any strain being put on anything since your only using it when you come to a stop.  My questions is what effect would this have on the balance of the drivetrain?  I can't imagine that 20lbs~ is good for a delicately balanced system.

 

And where would there be room under there?  Everything under the e36 is pretty cramped to begin with.

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That is a good point about the DS speed, my truck rarely breaks 60mph so that would be much less of an issue.  It would be a small disc, I wouldn't think more than a pound, thin like a motorcycle front disc is what I have seen.  I was thinking at the pinion which I think stick out past the subframe a little and then the caliper mount would be bolted to the subframe.  They look to be about an 1/8th" thick and would sandwich between the pinion and DS yoke.  I will have to do some measuring.

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Put in a drift style hydro e-brake, but make it lock.  Piece of candy.

Pretty much any E36 drift thread should have this information.  Plus, because you aren't getting xXsLiDeWayZZXx you can mount the lever in a discreet location, or possibly use your factory handbrake location (with a little engineering)

So I was thinking a hydro e brake, with a lock. That would be sufficient in an e30 right? I mean, if the brake lines fail, its in gear right? My only concern is that I plan to daily it, but I need some ebrake loving, and I DO NOT want to fix the mechanical drum ebrake thingy

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Ok, excellent plan, I have seen that before with a locking handle.  I think I could make it work with the stock handle.  It's really only for running back into the house without shutting it off etc, I never use the ebrake when the engine is off.  Has anyone here had a brake line failure on a BMW?  The separated front/rear master cylinder should prevent total loss of brakes right?

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Ok, excellent plan, I have seen that before with a locking handle.  I think I could make it work with the stock handle.  It's really only for running back into the house without shutting it off etc, I never use the ebrake when the engine is off.  Has anyone here had a brake line failure on a BMW?  The separated front/rear master cylinder should prevent total loss of brakes right?

 

You are correct

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Hmm.... there is a hell of a lot of things that were "replaced" that actually weren't on this car. I wish I would have screen shot the for sale ad before the mods took it down... Brakes were supposedly new 10k ago.

Hey at least the light works. (maybe?)

http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index.php?/topic/2462-fs-87-325e-coupe-2250/

I can still see the ad, not sure if you can.

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I do not have permission to view the ad. Could you please take a screen shot or something for me? Not that its a huge issue, I bought the car for 1150, I just want to see what all was said to be replaced. 


Just bothers me that the dude knew I was going to drive at home 70 miles down the interstate, and the damn steering was nearly disconnected, the front two wheels were SERIOUSLY bent, and one of the lugs on the front wheel was busted off, and none of that was mentioned. Just scares me to drive it before I check over absolutely everything now. 

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I do not have permission to view the ad. Could you please take a screen shot or something for me? Not that its a huge issue, I bought the car for 1150, I just want to see what all was said to be replaced. 

Just bothers me that the dude knew I was going to drive at home 70 miles down the interstate, and the damn steering was nearly disconnected, the front two wheels were SERIOUSLY bent, and one of the lugs on the front wheel was busted off, and none of that was mentioned. Just scares me to drive it before I check over absolutely everything now. 

You bought the car from tsweers?

 

I'll send you the list on the ad.

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I do not have permission to view the ad. Could you please take a screen shot or something for me? Not that its a huge issue, I bought the car for 1150, I just want to see what all was said to be replaced. 

Just bothers me that the dude knew I was going to drive at home 70 miles down the interstate, and the damn steering was nearly disconnected, the front two wheels were SERIOUSLY bent, and one of the lugs on the front wheel was busted off, and none of that was mentioned. Just scares me to drive it before I check over absolutely everything now. 

 

Same seller sold a car that was undriveable to another forum member.

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Ok, Has anyone here had a brake line failure on a BMW? 

Not a BMW but last winter some of the guys on here witnessed the Snapsquatch blow the line on my camry. I drove it 4 miles home. Brakes "worked" but it was more or less nothing for 90% pedal travel then locking the front wheel that last 10%

And for the record i blew the lines on the accord i borrowed from my inlaws while repairing the camry......the lines burst less than 1/4 mile from their house

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Not a BMW but last winter some of the guys on here witnessed the Snapsquatch blow the line on my camry. I drove it 4 miles home. Brakes "worked" but it was more or less nothing for 90% pedal travel then locking the front wheel that last 10%

And for the record i blew the lines on the accord i borrowed from my inlaws while repairing the camry......the lines burst less than 1/4 mile from their house

Note to self: brakes will be fine as long as you don't let snap drive it.

I will just go with a hydro attached to my locking oe handle. That saves a bunch of thinking. Any recommendations? I will pay for a quality one.

Sent from my potato phone

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Not a BMW but last winter some of the guys on here witnessed the Snapsquatch blow the line on my camry. I drove it 4 miles home. Brakes "worked" but it was more or less nothing for 90% pedal travel then locking the front wheel that last 10%And for the record i blew the lines on the accord i borrowed from my inlaws while repairing the camry......the lines burst less than 1/4 mile from their house

Even did a brake stand in his own puddle of brake fluid

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