retoropak

I started putting together manifold. Just some mockups for now to figure out injector positions and angles.
I also got a set of wilwood floormounts that i am trying to fit. Looks like  pedal position will be close to stock
 
 
 

I started putting together manifold. Just some mockups for now to figure out injector positions and angles.
I also got a set of wilwood floormounts that i am trying to fit. Looks like  pedal position will be close to stock
 
 
 

I finished transmission  mount.
Stock fuel tank wouldn't fit with e28 rear subframe so I had to trim it a little bit.
 
 
 
 
 
I started mocking up intake plenum to see if it will fit with a stock booster. The verdict is: I need boosterless brakes. I will try to fit floor mount Wilwood pedals and if it wont work I might go with firewall mounted ones. There is just not enough room for a booster even e90 one with vert mounted motor.
 
 
 
 

3 months later............
 
I had to redo the whole subframe. There was not enough room for decent size sump. Engine is mounted to the frame rails anyway so the middle section of the subframe was cut and pushed towards the front of the car. Don't mind crappy welds, once I hit it with some pretty epoxy paint it wont look that bad anymore.  It seems that I can tig aluminum better than I mig steel.   
 
 
 
Here is the oil pan that I hat to cut a little bit to sit flush with the subframe.
 
 
 
 
I also put together lower radiator mounts. It uses stock e36 plastic mounts that sit on steel brackets welded to the frame rails. There is enough room in front of the radiator to fit 3" intercooler.
 
 
I also got a new daily driver. I got rid of my xc70 and got F32.  That b58 and zf 8spd combo is amazing. 
 
 

It is LittleFuse EPC . https://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc-power-distribution-modules/configurable-pdm/epc.aspx
Two separate buses, 9 relays, 27 fuses should be more than enough. Uses ip67 TE connectors
I also thought about this busman/Eaton but it has relay on every circuit.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46065/Dual-SSVEC-12VDC/?gclid=CjwKCAiAs92MBhAXEiwAXTi25yWbJ6SQQpt_pXWnZg-UyW1xzr7SP_NbntmXLOg5mJaHZgv6zz3WnxoC-gUQAvD_BwE

I finally found a driveshaft and test fitted transmission and motor. It came out that i made my oil pan 0.5" too long and will have to redo it. 
A bit of CSB mount relocation will be required
I started some engine mounts. I also ripped the whole wiring harness and will redo it along with the new fusebox. 
I cleaned up and painted rear inner fenders and applied some brush on seam sealer for some extra protection. 
E36 steering column is a pretty good fit. I will gain a cruise control stalk which I will need for some dash display controls. 
Initially I got garagistic e30/m20 mounts but they are bolt thru which I am not a big fan of.  I ordered the revshift mounts.FCP shipped my radiator mounts and engine mounts and I should get em by Monday. I will finish the mounts next week and will modify the oil pan. Radiator and intercooler will be next.
 
 
 
 
 
 

I finally found a driveshaft and test fitted transmission and motor. It came out that i made my oil pan 0.5" too long and will have to redo it. 
A bit of CSB mount relocation will be required
I started some engine mounts. I also ripped the whole wiring harness and will redo it along with the new fusebox. 
I cleaned up and painted rear inner fenders and applied some brush on seam sealer for some extra protection. 
E36 steering column is a pretty good fit. I will gain a cruise control stalk which I will need for some dash display controls. 
Initially I got garagistic e30/m20 mounts but they are bolt thru which I am not a big fan of.  I ordered the revshift mounts.FCP shipped my radiator mounts and engine mounts and I should get em by Monday. I will finish the mounts next week and will modify the oil pan. Radiator and intercooler will be next.
 
 
 
 
 
 

It felt wierd for a moment to chop perfectly good zf320 but oh well got to do what you got to do. 
 
This is how much it will rotate.
 

A little angle grinder holder. It is also nice to have a flat table. 
 

chop chop
 
And rotated. 
 
 
 
 
Now i need to pull my m42 block from e21 bolt the transmission and weld the bellhousing. 
 
 

Transmission is welded on the outside. I will finish welding the inside tomorrow 
Bellhousing bolted to the block
 
 
 
Magic wand
 
 
All bolted together
 
And welded
 

 
 
 
 

Transmission is welded on the outside. I will finish welding the inside tomorrow 
Bellhousing bolted to the block
 
 
 
Magic wand
 
 
All bolted together
 
And welded
 

 
 
 
 

Transmission is welded on the outside. I will finish welding the inside tomorrow 
Bellhousing bolted to the block
 
 
 
Magic wand
 
 
All bolted together
 
And welded
 

 
 
 
 

Transmission is welded on the outside. I will finish welding the inside tomorrow 
Bellhousing bolted to the block
 
 
 
Magic wand
 
 
All bolted together
 
And welded
 

 
 
 
 

It felt wierd for a moment to chop perfectly good zf320 but oh well got to do what you got to do. 
 
This is how much it will rotate.
 

A little angle grinder holder. It is also nice to have a flat table. 
 

chop chop
 
And rotated. 
 
 
 
 
Now i need to pull my m42 block from e21 bolt the transmission and weld the bellhousing. 
 
 

Last week I test fitted the motor with the new pan. It looked cozy in there almost too ”sr20” looking when it sits straight. 
 
 
 
 
Two feet clarance in front of the motor for that 4” thick  intercooler or maybe ac condeser🧐

 

Thank you sir.

I whipped front bar mount today. Temporarily mounted the bar and the control arm link is a no go. Its too short and at weird angle. I will link it to the strut tubes. 
 


I also did one of the rear diff mounts and started to fit the rear bar. Looks like the rear will fit quite nicely. 
 

 
 

 


 
 
 
 
 
 

I pulled one side rear fender and will start working on the other side.

Helmut by w grync,

I cut the inner fender and pulled until it started to dent the outer then i backed up a bit. I welded piece of sheet metal to the inner to fill the gap. I will prime with epoxy and seam sea the shit out of it. 


I got my new Mig setup its the everlast i-mig200e. I have only experience with some crappy 60 amp mig and inverter tig machine. So far i am impressed with that new mig.

Helmut by w grync,



I migged the front lollipop mounts together. And will weld them to the frame rails later this week.

Helmut by w grync

Helmut by w grync,

I had to notch the rear frame rail to clear the triling arm.

Helmut by w grync



Trailing arms with the new shock mounts tacked in.

Helmut by w grync,

Helmut by w grync,




 

Another month and another update. I refinished style 7s and wrapped em with some cheapo toyos 195/45/15s. 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
This thing sits low 

 
Good thing is I plan to run some 16s which will be 1-1.5" taller. Either way there are no chances to run the 3" exhaust under the subframe. There is not much space for the 3" over he subframe either. I suspect some side exits in the future.
 
I had to redo the whole rear subframe because I messed up the angles of the diff. Diff cover was too close to the floor. Fortunately I had e21 and e28 subframes lying around. Quick chop and weld and now its good to go with the diff sitting at much better angle. 
 
I also test fitted the m42. It is a rear sump setup and I will definitely need to  chop some oil pan off to get the head to clear the firewall. 
I will most likely have to vert mount it if I will ever want to turbo it. Also it is pushed so far back that the first exhaust runner is uncomfortably close to the firewall and strut tower/inner fender and slanted situation is not helping at all. Also a lollpop mount and arm might be a bit in  the way of the downpipe. 
 
I got my Australian engineered, made in Taiwan chromoly flywheel from Rama. This thing is so light that I thought that I got an empty box.
Flywheel weighs 5.5lbs and flywheel/tilton 7.25" twin is right at 13.5lbs. Drivability will suck big time.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Damn its been almost  two months since the last update.
 
i got distracted  building my welding/shop table. 1/4" top 2x3x1/8" tube. Nice and solid. Good enough for some light duty welding
 
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
I pulled the second fender, finished front coilovers and welded the lolipop mounts. i put some contours in and my car looks like crap. Waaaaaay too big
 
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
I am changing plans and will roll on 15x7s with some skinny 205s this season (if it ever comes out of the garage this season).
 
Since my car is wider front and back by roughly 30mm per side the standard e21 offsets do not work anymore. and finding high offset 8-9" wheels with 5x120 pattern is almost impossible. I could build some splits but it would probably  cost more than my car is worth.
 
I got set of these for $40. Just need some paint. 15x7et20
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
Oh and i just ordered a nice an light flywheel (6-7lbs) to accept my 7.25" tilton clutch. I suspect some terrible clutch engagement characteristics. It will be chirp the tires or stall and nothing in between.
 
 
Lastly i had to shorten e36 tie rods to get the toe in check. 
I cut, welded and added some sleeves to prevent shopping cart mode in the future.
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Damn its been almost  two months since the last update.
 
i got distracted  building my welding/shop table. 1/4" top 2x3x1/8" tube. Nice and solid. Good enough for some light duty welding
 
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
I pulled the second fender, finished front coilovers and welded the lolipop mounts. i put some contours in and my car looks like crap. Waaaaaay too big
 
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
I am changing plans and will roll on 15x7s with some skinny 205s this season (if it ever comes out of the garage this season).
 
Since my car is wider front and back by roughly 30mm per side the standard e21 offsets do not work anymore. and finding high offset 8-9" wheels with 5x120 pattern is almost impossible. I could build some splits but it would probably  cost more than my car is worth.
 
I got set of these for $40. Just need some paint. 15x7et20
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
Oh and i just ordered a nice an light flywheel (6-7lbs) to accept my 7.25" tilton clutch. I suspect some terrible clutch engagement characteristics. It will be chirp the tires or stall and nothing in between.
 
 
Lastly i had to shorten e36 tie rods to get the toe in check. 
I cut, welded and added some sleeves to prevent shopping cart mode in the future.
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Damn its been almost  two months since the last update.
 
i got distracted  building my welding/shop table. 1/4" top 2x3x1/8" tube. Nice and solid. Good enough for some light duty welding
 
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
I pulled the second fender, finished front coilovers and welded the lolipop mounts. i put some contours in and my car looks like crap. Waaaaaay too big
 
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
I am changing plans and will roll on 15x7s with some skinny 205s this season (if it ever comes out of the garage this season).
 
Since my car is wider front and back by roughly 30mm per side the standard e21 offsets do not work anymore. and finding high offset 8-9" wheels with 5x120 pattern is almost impossible. I could build some splits but it would probably  cost more than my car is worth.
 
I got set of these for $40. Just need some paint. 15x7et20
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
Oh and i just ordered a nice an light flywheel (6-7lbs) to accept my 7.25" tilton clutch. I suspect some terrible clutch engagement characteristics. It will be chirp the tires or stall and nothing in between.
 
 
Lastly i had to shorten e36 tie rods to get the toe in check. 
I cut, welded and added some sleeves to prevent shopping cart mode in the future.
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Damn its been almost  two months since the last update.
 
i got distracted  building my welding/shop table. 1/4" top 2x3x1/8" tube. Nice and solid. Good enough for some light duty welding
 
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
I pulled the second fender, finished front coilovers and welded the lolipop mounts. i put some contours in and my car looks like crap. Waaaaaay too big
 
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
I am changing plans and will roll on 15x7s with some skinny 205s this season (if it ever comes out of the garage this season).
 
Since my car is wider front and back by roughly 30mm per side the standard e21 offsets do not work anymore. and finding high offset 8-9" wheels with 5x120 pattern is almost impossible. I could build some splits but it would probably  cost more than my car is worth.
 
I got set of these for $40. Just need some paint. 15x7et20
Untitled by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
Oh and i just ordered a nice an light flywheel (6-7lbs) to accept my 7.25" tilton clutch. I suspect some terrible clutch engagement characteristics. It will be chirp the tires or stall and nothing in between.
 
 
Lastly i had to shorten e36 tie rods to get the toe in check. 
I cut, welded and added some sleeves to prevent shopping cart mode in the future.
Helmut and welding table by w grync, on Flickr
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I pulled one side rear fender and will start working on the other side.

Helmut by w grync,

I cut the inner fender and pulled until it started to dent the outer then i backed up a bit. I welded piece of sheet metal to the inner to fill the gap. I will prime with epoxy and seam sea the shit out of it. 


I got my new Mig setup its the everlast i-mig200e. I have only experience with some crappy 60 amp mig and inverter tig machine. So far i am impressed with that new mig.

Helmut by w grync,



I migged the front lollipop mounts together. And will weld them to the frame rails later this week.

Helmut by w grync

Helmut by w grync,

I had to notch the rear frame rail to clear the triling arm.

Helmut by w grync



Trailing arms with the new shock mounts tacked in.

Helmut by w grync,

Helmut by w grync,




 

I pulled one side rear fender and will start working on the other side.

Helmut by w grync,

I cut the inner fender and pulled until it started to dent the outer then i backed up a bit. I welded piece of sheet metal to the inner to fill the gap. I will prime with epoxy and seam sea the shit out of it. 


I got my new Mig setup its the everlast i-mig200e. I have only experience with some crappy 60 amp mig and inverter tig machine. So far i am impressed with that new mig.

Helmut by w grync,



I migged the front lollipop mounts together. And will weld them to the frame rails later this week.

Helmut by w grync

Helmut by w grync,

I had to notch the rear frame rail to clear the triling arm.

Helmut by w grync



Trailing arms with the new shock mounts tacked in.

Helmut by w grync,

Helmut by w grync,




 

I pulled one side rear fender and will start working on the other side.

Helmut by w grync,

I cut the inner fender and pulled until it started to dent the outer then i backed up a bit. I welded piece of sheet metal to the inner to fill the gap. I will prime with epoxy and seam sea the shit out of it. 


I got my new Mig setup its the everlast i-mig200e. I have only experience with some crappy 60 amp mig and inverter tig machine. So far i am impressed with that new mig.

Helmut by w grync,



I migged the front lollipop mounts together. And will weld them to the frame rails later this week.

Helmut by w grync

Helmut by w grync,

I had to notch the rear frame rail to clear the triling arm.

Helmut by w grync



Trailing arms with the new shock mounts tacked in.

Helmut by w grync,

Helmut by w grync,




 

A while back Helmut was sporting a stock m10 with the turbo big enough to disintegrate that poor motor. After two years of trashing this setup my turbo manifold decided to crack every weld and reject the turbo flange. 
Helmut by w grync,
Helmut by w grync, on Flickr
Helmut by w grync,
 
I decided to get rid of the m10 and switch to more modern unit. I acquired the early m42 with the plan to boost it. Stock 1.8 is nice if you like it to spool at 5k rpm. 
Since I got family in Poland, and Poland is Europe's junkyard, there are plenty of e36,e34 and e39  m47 diesels sold for parts. I found two diesel cranks and have them shipped to the States.
With M47 crank and enough bore I will have close to 2.1L. It should spool nicely especially with some efr (if budget allows)
M47 diesel crank by w grync,
 To use it in m42 the crank nose has to be turned to match the m42 chain sprocket ID. Also additional keyway needs to be cut.  M47s use same bearings as m42/m52s. I plan to use the 360 thrust bearing. Question: What is your opinion on the 360 degree oiling grooves for high (er) rev applications (8-8.5k rpm)? 
M47 diesel crank by w grync,
 
With power goals that I got in my mind the whole stock drivetrain was not up to the task.
I had the e28 subframe modded to fit e21 from my previous project. I had to decide  what to do with the front end. 
There were two options: e21 front with e12 hubs to make it 5x120 or the more entertaining way using the whole e36 front end. 
 
Front Subframe
 
I roughly chopped 3" of the middle of the front e36 subframe and welded it back together. I had to modify frme rails in order to bolt the new subframe in. 
 
Stock vs e36
E36 modified subframe by w grync
cut
E36 modified subframe by w grync,
Jig
E36 modified subframe by w grync, 
 
weld the crap out of it
E36 modified subframe by w grync,
 
Frame rails
I used panzer angles and tube to make it bombproof. I guess anything over 1/8" is overkill but oh well. 
Untitled by w grync,
Untitled by w grync,
Front suspension by w grync, 
 
Control arm Mounts
I decided to use the wider e46 arms to match the increased rear track width. SLR adjustable lollipops were used to center the wheel.
Front suspension by w grync,
E46 arms and lollipop mount by w grync,
Front suspension by w grync,
I set the arms parallel to the subframe for the neutral anti-dive. I can always add some spacers under lollipop mounts to increase anti-dive
Control arm angles by w grync,
 
Trailing Arms
The rear end is as problematic as the front. to fit wider wheels i needed to move shock pickup points almost 2" in. Shock mounts are from https://www.aa-mfg.com/
Trilingarm by w grync,
Rear suspension by w grync, 
 
 
Brakes: 
Stock e46 330i up front and e32 rears. 
 
Suspension:
Koni race single adjustables. Front and rear e28 swaybars. Not sure about the spring rates.
I modded the front e36 strut housings. I chopped the tops and welded volvo 740 threaded top portion of the strut tube.  
 
Strut tubes e36 by w grync, 
Strut tubes e36 by w grync, 
 
 

Progress might be slow but I hope to build the motor over the summer and maybe even have it on the road this year.  
 
 
pe that it will