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GunMetalGrey

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Posts posted by GunMetalGrey

  1. Well, fired it up and it sounded the same.
    Pulled the head and brought it to the shop, as that's the only thing left.
    Dude called and said I had a bent valve or 24, so at least root issue was found. He noted the guides were ovals so it had been this way for quite some time, must've been a very subtle bend on most of them. 

    Ordered some goodies and will be back better than ever. 
    +1 on the intake for fun
    image.png
     

  2. On 8/4/2021 at 6:47 AM, SteelBlue said:

    Thankfully, Mr. @patsbimmer1 will be sourcing me aftermarket housings.

    Does The Retrofit source have anything? 
    If not, I'd be down to build some high performing headlights for you! 

     

     

    On 8/4/2021 at 12:36 PM, patsbimmer1 said:

    Next week I will be in Mexico driving Baja Challenge trucks along sections of the Baja 1000 and 500! 

    More details on how you are doing this please, I have always found these vehicles impressive and would love to get a bit more involved with them! 

  3. 11 minutes ago, SteelBlue said:

    I sold my F30. I’ll be back in a BMW as a daily some day, but it was time to try something else as I’ve driven a lowered BMW for 8 years. Going to hopefully purchase an F150 on Saturday. Will be really nice to transport mopeds and other track items to Road America and general utility.

    Such a solid looking rig, how many miles did you end up putting on that bad boy? 
    What year F150? 
    Details my guy!

     

  4. 11 hours ago, jc43089 said:

    Check the side clearance and inspect for anything that would cause lower output flow.  Also check the relief valve spring, I doubt that is the issue though because typical idling pressure is very low anyway.  Did you have an oil pressure gauge?

    It did for awhile, then it went missing right around when I got it. It's in my amazon cart haha. 

    I question if the horrid old clutch in there didn't help the situation any, as it would chatter like a mother.

    Previous dude also speculated that it was ticking shortly after assembly, but not as bad. 

  5. The last job I was on satisfied the inner child in me watching cool trailers and big rolling cranes do their job.
    Lifted a new section of machine (100,000 lbs) into a mill using a 350 ton crane, then skated it into the building and picked it with the 50 ton house crane.
    I was playing erection supervisor / mechanical advisor for this job which is a little different than what I am used to considering this was a full tear out and replacement of the old section of machine, but it was a solid project overall. 

    image.png


    image.png

    Shortly after lifting it, the overhead crane stopped responding to all controls, with millions of dollars of equipment hanging out 15ft in the air. After an hour and a half it just started working again, so it was quickly set and that crane was not used again.

    image.png

    I didn't get a good photo of the finished machine, but here's one from the backside.

    image.png


     

  6. I've been chasing down a tick from the rear of this engine for a bit now, and had some findings yesterday. 
    The previous work I've done was removing the cams and opening and cleaning all the lifters, which didn't change anything. I then replaced lifters on cylinder 5 and 6, which did not change the noise. 
    I tried heavier oil which helped reduce the noise a bit, but then was loud again, thin oil made it much worse. 

    I am seeing metal in the oil so it was time to pull the pan and see what bearing I was losing. The piece upper right was from something else, but this is what was coming out of the back corner of the oil pan as I was pulling it. 
    image.png

    I found the oil pump chain to be very slack, but intact. 
    image.png

    I can't leave the chain that loose so I'll be pulling the engine seeing as I'm opening up a larger can of worms here than intended. 
    I have not seen any glaring signs of bearing failure which is good (no discolored caps) but I have yet to pull any caps. That'll wait until the engine is on a stand. 

    Fun with engines!


     

  7. Since everyone else on here has white coupes I figured I'd join the crew!

    I was sitting in Oregon on a job site and came across a posting for an E30 from Cali, claimed one owner vehicle, with some mediocre pictures. 
    Chatted with the seller, got more pics, a video or two, and I sent him some money to hold the car for me to arrive. Two days later I show up to his place in California with a trailer, worked out a deal, and left with the least rusty E30 I've ever seen. 
    I was surprised on arrival to find two spots on the exterior with clear coat gone, but only on the hood and trunk which is easy enough to work with. 

    Service record of one shop its whole life, original owner on the title, and I've now become the second registered owner of it. 
    Every vin tag matches, one or two door dings on the whole car, it is astounding. 

    So what's the plan?
    This is my long haul project car, the culmination of everything I've learned from working with E30's over the years. I am in no rush to get this completed as I want every facet of it to be exactly what I've desired. The intent is to completely remove the interior and replace it (interior is mediocre and tan) with black/grey things and custom seats that I've been working on. Driveline will be the S52 from my other E30, in a shaved and repainted engine bay. Suspension will be a hybrid of what I've got in my blue e30 and a mix of new parts. 

    I promise this is (one) of the last E30's I will own...

    image.pngimage.pngimage.pngimage.pngimage.pngimage.png





    California is always scenic, ft. E30 and Titan with lightweight clear coat mods. 

    image.png









     

  8. image.png
    Headliner was cleaned out and tucked back away for a later date .

    Cooling this engine had been sub optimal before, so I threw money at the problem. 
    Stewart water pump, Z3m triple core, SPAL branded fan.

    Clearances are tight, but man does this help keep temps in check! 

  9. Man I'm good at buying vehicles that had things living in them. 
    Noticed some yellow/orange chips near the sunroof crank, and had been getting a more present animal smell in the cabin. 
    image.png

    Started pulling the headliner down around the doors and more foam was rolling out.
    Lovely. 

    Add taking the current headliner out and replacing it to the list of things to do. 
     

  10. 2 minutes ago, HipMF said:

    Not sure whether this is some kind of extreme generalization, or a valid piece of data from a non-relevant discussion...

    Ideal static compression ratio is heavily dependent on camshaft timing. Cam specs greatly affect VE across the rev range. When VE is decreased, there's less air getting in, but the final volume after compression is the same, so your "dynamic" CR will be lower. You need a higher static CR to get the the same amount of "dynamic" compression of the charge before ignition. Generally speaking, bigger cams require more compression, especially to restore torque that is lost in the low end/midrange which was lost because increased valve overlap results in a lower VE in those rev ranges..

    It is a generalization
    Static compression ratio does not depend of camshaft timing, as it is simply using the volume of combustion area at the two most extreme points of stroke. The effective compression ratio certainly changes when you get into cam profiles and variable timing and things of that sort, which is not something I've delved into, as the static ratio of this engine has never been accurately measured, therefore dynamic is also speculative.

    When looking at adiabatic compression of the otto cycle, ~1 point of compression increase yields around 2 to 4 percent increase in efficiency as a result of more heat being generated by the compression of air itself and intake temp being the same (ideally) instead relying on the combustible fuel source to provide that energy. As your delta T increases so does the area in the otto cycle which is the work output. 

    Anywho, doing any modification without supporting it is silly, but when people with stock M50's talk about just increasing compression and expecting to see large benefit it is worth noting that they will be spending a fair bit of money for little gain. 

    Positive manifold pressure is a wonderful thing in an engine is what it really all boils down to. 

  11. 4 hours ago, Boris3 said:

    Nice job on the weight! My e30 race car gutted and caged with the m20 is around the same. I could go lighter but need to make 2710 minimum with driver to be legal.

    The odd part is I've done nothing to reduce the weight! It's insane how light this car must've been when it rolled off the factory line sporting an m10 and an adorable drivetrain to match! 

  12. Full tank of gas, I was standing next to it. Trunk tar in. 
    image.png

    My battery relocation to the rear requires a bit more work than initially thought. It's either an '84 thing or just early production, not sure. The rear battery tray area is narrower than a late model, so I will need a different battery. I also need to cut a hole for the battery cable grommet in the engine bay vs just punching out a blank plate.
    My weight bias isn't great (55% front) but it's not as bad as expected. 

    For ref, this is an 84 318i with full interior, full stereo in place, and a complete 6cyl e30 driveline and suspension components, with a 24v instead of the M20. I'm fairly impressed at the weight. 
     

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